soopersubaru

I have to LOL on this...Good one Funky!+ Evowrx! :-*

Rubbish!...undo the crank bolts! flywheel sits on the engine side of bellhousing not gearbox

If you are running the G4 then there will be no issues with tune versus IAT changes. This is spray over the outside of the intercooler / radiator that i am referring too..TMIC or FMIC or WAIC front HOWEVER if you are going to water injection directly into the intake air/manifold then yes retune to suit the mix (water/meth) will be required. Just trying to clarify the difference in these two "spray" scenarios before one is confused totally by statements. Not sure if Solja is injecting into intake or spraying the intercooler as meth can and is used in both applications. Both these methods reduce combustion air temperatures. Spraying the cooler is easy.....Injecting is very technical and requires careful and knowledgeable tune/setup. WRC subarus used both....No meth though.

Endless brakes...Go faster n Stop quicker n Go faster n Stop quicker ...etc etc ProSport Auto!

True for this situation..Manual Unless its an Auto!...Then a seized flywheel/motor means engine and box out.... Then some careful cutting of the flexi plate to save the torque converter...Plus usually a hole bashed through the seized motor to get the last of the four F****n bolts out!! Usually ok to damage the motor coz ya have another one ready to go in!

damn sight easier to do a subaru box than most if not all those poxy FWD drive thingys.

Stoffa...Make sure you do use the spray on the TMIC..Then it will provide the same results as your FMIC.. Now if you set a spray on the FMIC. You will see a noticeable cooling effect on what you have now. Cooler air better for economy too. Although cruising around under vacuum is probably the best of all...Lol. These trials i have done....My system now also has a front spray too!(triggers on at 10psi) I certainly would NOT run a TMIC without spray! Risk of hi temps and det! (short for deth!)

Yes VERY interesting info! Looks like my soopercooler performs just a wee bit better than your current FMIC For the higher powered ROAD car application!...with a sleeper appearance. Just does not have PWR,HKS,Zero sport, Or some other *** logo on it A?

Yep! Auto clutch far better than those excedy ones! Get yours reco by neill and you WILL have a beaut clutch....Better than anything you maybe thinking of buying! Just make sure you listen to his advice and fully understand how to setup when you install. He Knows his stuff!!...Clutches are his livelihood!...For any clutch in any setup!

Yes have seen the PWR one and had one quoted...$1800... That is just the top mount bit. Properly designed????? Well i guess there are opinions on that!!..Water flow in mine is opposite to airflow! I do know mine works extremely well for the ROAD car application. With only a 6 deg rise over ambient on cruise. Normal overtake is usually no more than say around 40 seconds...This increases the IAT to around 8-9 deg above ambient at 20 psi boost. So the design is "not bad" And for less than a grand installed WITH pump,front radiator,piping..etc. A pretty good price too. Even Paul Manuell agreed that i had a good design! (Eastern automotive) Sole agent for PWR. LMFAO!

At risk of starting something....Here is some information!!! http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,18866.0.html

Not my design .But your statement IS incorrect!! http://www.votionspeed.com/servlet/the-797/TYPE-4-Water-to/Detail And here's one too for a Subaru. http://www.votionspeed.com/servlet/the-495/Turbo-Water-to-Air/Detail

This will work well for your project...Run aircon and achieve the power you seeking without Det! ;) http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,18866.0.html

i reckon your clutch is almost fried...take up(engagement) gradually rises as clutch plate wears out...adjusting the master cylinder stroke will not solve the problem.....infact you may end up further preloading the release bearing

usually gearbox,speedo,diff, flywheel, starter, clutch and pedal + gearlever..interior plastic bit..2k job or thereabouts

get yours re built with hi clamp ....can do job...beats fitting a rubbish one to a damaged flywheel

+1 they know how too

From a "hot" standing start at intersections..WAIC work best,For the every day road car. For racing flat out...Front mount AAIC work very well For the rally car...Hi pressure finely atomised water spray onto the AAIC (TMIC or FMIC) works better than a WAIC (without spray) due to hi engine loads and relatively slow forward speeds. OPINION:- Fans will give you some result...But seriously consider your application before spending the cash. There are more effective ways to cool charge air. Water Spray on at 5psi would be the best/cost effective solution. Opinion that is! Cooler charge air will return more wheel power regardless of how you achieve it...So go for it!

download the code...possible temp sensor...MAYBE that is!...indications seem to be

MY SINCERE APOLOGIES ON HEAD VERSION...WAS TOLD 5...All these versions get me lost sometimes...Thought it was V6 when they went to offset inlet bolts...Ah well mistakes shall be learned from.. Hope all goes well regardless.

tis clutch! +1 joker, not releasing properly. Maybe you can let master cylinder travel back further. probably preloading clutch too...this will eventually cause slipping as the plate wears further. Adjust master cylinder until you can only just engage reverse without crunch. Between 1 and 2 turns of the master cylinder push rod will do it. You need a 6mm spanner...And a 12mm to undo locknut on pedal clamp.

better to overfeed journal bearing....but not ball...would be inclined to find the correct sized one though...seal failure can occur if too much pressure is in either type of bearing.

Clip ring inside the clip on the pressure plate fingers worn ...Or stretched out.... by some knuckle head that did not know how to split bearing out correctly!...Usually. Mates rally car was doing this....New release bearing and associated clip bit fixed it!

Banjo bolt exit hole(turbo entry) carefully sized to match turbo...Journal or ball bearing...and size of turbo. Would not alter personally.

Turbine DOES NOT USE TEMPERATURE...... From mr Kooms file:- Oh yes it does! Quote from your file:- As the mass of the high velocity gas flows across the turbine blades, the gaseous energy is converted to mechanical energy. Velocity, TEMPERATURE, and pressure of the gas are sacrificed in order to rotate the turbine to generate shaft power. Figure 2-5 represents one stage of the turbine and the characteristics of the gases as it flows through the stage.