Durty-Sanchez

Std tune is ~ 9 .. 11-11.5 is where I'd go if the fueling is safe (i.e. split rail).

I would.. get a boost gauge (if it hasn't got one already), get a ZS sequential controller and/or good boost controller. Then try and find a chipped ECU for it. That'll set you back around $1k and get you some decent upgrades. Then save the remaining $2k for if/when the engine blows up and you can do a single conversion while rebuilding. No point doing a single conversion while the engines still ok..

Do it!

Heat up the plastic pipes, especially the primary one.. they tend to shrink, and if you force them they will snap if brittle (done that before..$90 for a new one!). Other than that use lost of lube and follow the others instructions.. plenty of wiggling but it'll get there!

It's in an interesting spot, but not too hard if you have nimble woman pleasing hands.. you'll need to remove the intercooler and look down between the throttle body and the idle valve. Might pay to remove the coolant hoses if you need more room. In any case, you'll see it down there bolted on to the block.. g'luck!

Knock sensor code is thrown for one reason only (according to the firmware).. it doesn't like the signal it's getting, if it's getting one at all. Patch in to your knock sensor and listen to it.. I bet it'll either be dead, or the signal will have big silent patches in it. Once the ECU has decided it hates the knock sensor it 'tards the timing big time and you have a dog of a car to drive. They're fairly generic sensors though (Ichi can correct me on this), so maybe pick-a-part would be better if you're wanting a cheaper option? In any case.. i'd replace it, there's not much else that can cause that code to be thrown. Ichi - are there any differences between turbo and non-turbo knocksensors?

Cut the speedo wire.. I wouldn't recommend that though

6 point socket is a must.. when mine gets stuck I give it a good bash with a hammer after CRCing

So as it turns out there may not have been an airlock/blockage afterall.. the (1 year old) water pump had shreded itself down to one fin. Cambelt + new pump could be worse I suppose

Compression test was fine, head-check fluid stayed blue so that's fine. Airlock in the block sounds like a possibility.. the heater and radiator were well blocked, so I would not be suprised if the block was in the same condition. As for the rats.. there's mouse traps everywhere, but they're not big enough to catch these sods!

Or... not the verdict, as it turns out. Radiator was blocked, heater core was blocked.. all cleared out now but car still overheats. ??? With the header cap off there are visible bubbles appearing if you rev it, but when checked with head check fluid they aren't exhaust gas. So where are they coming from! There's no visible leaks, heads are sound.. could it be the turbo seals (if the water jacket even has seals..)? At least if they went the water would be escaping in to the intake/exhaust. Doesn't overheat as badly as before, but needle still moves quite quickly up and down (used to be stable as a rock, even when giving it stick). I'm getting a rash from all the head scratching on this one..

What exactly do you mean by 'null power' .. ? Is there still enough power to provide propulsion (i.e. it goes, but not very fast), or is it a complete loss of engine power? My first guess would be that you could be changing gears too close to the VOD change over points. There is the noticable power drop during the change, but if you change up a gear after it's just completed chances are your exhaust gas flow will drop (lower revs), but it'll be trying to spin both turbos still. The result is it bogs down for a few seconds before realising that it doesn't have the power to spin both, then powers back to life again after closing off the secondary. AFM going bung is usually shuddering/complete loss of power. You'll feel it if you're moving along and it feels like all of a sudden you don't have an engine. Coils.. you might notice some missfiring/shuddering while driving, but the real effect of coils is during acceleration. When you put your foot down there might be nothing for a second, then you're away. You might also get some severe shuddering/missfiring with bad coils. Crap timing.. this gives you the feeling of poor throttle response when you put the power on. Over time the ECU's severely retard the timing at low load/rpm, giving you not a lot of power when you plant it. Resetting the ECU (battery off overnight on older models) will help with this.

In the day time the only robbery you're likely to see is the ridiculously high parking charges, rigerously inforced by a army of park-narks and a platoon of tow trucks and wheel clampers. City shopping is average at best (unless its a nice day), if she wants to go to a single location that was built soley for women wanting to empty their better halves wallets she needn't go any further than Queensgate. The parking's free too.

Before going to yellows I would do the split rail fuel lines + walbro. If the guy knows what he's doing he will then know how to adjust the fuel multiplier value to suit yellow tops - then get him to tune it with a wideband (he had to have tuned at least one, right? .. otherwise it's just a copy of someone elses). With split rail and yellows you can really up the A/F ratios and get some power out of it. Don't worry about a new AFM, if he adjusts the multiplier value you wont need to bother with anything else. I'd avoid SAFC if he can do the above, as said it tricks the ECU in to thinking it needs less fuel (to suit your larger injectors), but that also throws your ignition timing and boost maps out of whack. The chips can be re-tuned, but probably not on the fly. If PacificBoost is any good they will have the equipment to do that though..

The verdict.. blocked radiator. Headgaskets came back as fine (to everyones suprise).

Nah not yet, got a new one from CPA today but didn't have time, will be flushing it again in a day or two to get rid of all the rusty water so will swap it then. Keen to find what it is that corroded so badly though!

Yea I have a horrible feeling it may be HG, but that doesn't explain the other problems though. There's some big block in there somewhere to stop it draining and filling.. might blast the hose through just the heater core and see if I have any luck. It's getting a compression test on weds so that'll be either the good or bad news

The TT started overheating last week, had a look under the bonnet and found 2 dead rats - the buggers had chewed holes in the coolant hoses that connect to the ICV. Anyway, it had gone unnoticed (and un-smelt) for some time and some corrosion had set in. Replaced the ICV and hoses but noticed that the coolant water (1 year old) was brown with rust. Topped it up with coolant anyway as I'd give it a flush the following week. Drove sweet for 2-3 days (~300kms) then all of a sudden started overheating again. Opened the bonnet and seen it had blown all the overflow tank coolant out and there wasn't much left in the header tank either. Topped it up with water and drove home at 50k to stop it overheating (sat around 1/2 way, went higher if I went faster). Went to re-do the coolant today, took ages for the coolant to drain from the bottom radiator hose. Shoved the hose in it and cranked it up, came out fine then, but was still brownish after 5 minutes. Sealed it up then started to refill it with coolant but it struggled to let it through. Took an hour to get 2.5 litres in to it (the coolant bottle). Started up the engine after that with hose ready incase a huge airbubble went, but nothing.. infact, after a while it started pushing coolant back out the header tank (lid was off). Top radiator hose is hot when up to temperature, so are the turbo return lines.. bottom radiator hose was cold, not even luke warm. Have it booked in for a compression test on Wednesday incase it's head gaskets, but in the meantime anyone got any other ideas? I'm thinking if its not HG's that there's a monty block somewhere - and has been for a while, and all that corrosion is coming out in the water. Heater sucks btw, so that's possibly a culprit. Thanks!

There's no point cracking it open, if there's any changes to the factory maps it'll have been reflashed on to the existing firmware (i.e. it'll look exactly like a stock ECU inside).. you'd need to read out the maps and compare them to a known-stock version of the ECU. If it has been reflashed that's awesome, 99's are a lot harder to do and a lot rarer!

Are you currently hitting fuel cut? I mapped your greytops to ~85% duty at peak, so there's a little room to move there. Ideally, if you did a split fuel rail conversion we could lower your A/F ratios which gives performance + more headroom from the inejctors (to prevent det). Yellow tops just give you more headroom with no performance increase You *could* do what ReubenH suggests and just buy a gtb/rsb, but then you would have forked out the cash for a time bomb. Your EJ20H is a more reliable (albeit older and less powerful) engine. You don't need any of that other rubbish to run yellow tops, you just need me to get off my ass and install yellow tops on my legacy so I can test the fuel multiplier value to suit yellow tops, then reflash your chip..

Not knowing the real answer but having a stab in the dark i'd say SFA resistance (i.e. a fraction of an ohm)? It's an inductor so it's impedance will increase with the driving frequency.. if you stick a multimeter on it i'd expect you to only have the resistance of the wire itself, which isn't the resistance the circuit will see the coil as having during operation

When my AFM's died I experienced power loss on hills, on the flat, any time, any throttle.. my moneys still on that being the problem. Check your error codes, the AFM problem doesn't always throw an urgent code but there may be one stored in memory that can be dug up when you check.

Even more common though is the AFM going tits-up in them. Search some of my older posts for a DIY AFM fixup guide, it'll steer you in the right direction Edit: Here it is

Couldn't be bothered DIYing it, turned out to be the bushes though. Holy crap what a difference it makes though, even from before it went ultra sloppy

I suspect not either.. it's booked in for a fixup on monday, but that's still 5 days, in which time it will most likely go tits up completely