Durty-Sanchez

It's a bit new to suffer from this, but the BOV could be leaking.. I went from 8psi up to 12 when I replaced my leaking factory one

I'm sold! I've stolen a vivid from work to see how well that does for the meantime

Wellington/Hutt, or anywhere I can get his precious little scooter to. I don't know where he got his quote from, probably the dealer. It retails for $3200, must be made of gold

So the flatmate's a bit of a woman and is bitching about a scratch on his scooter. Teaches him for parking in my spot anyway. Anyway, he's got a quote for $550 to repair the scratches (images to follow) that involves repainting the entire scooter, which I think is a little ridiculous considering the size of said scratches. Does anyone know or is able to offer a cheapish touch up job? Edit: Added picture, yep it's the small scratches to the left of the sticker - i'm getting him a new sticker too so he'll stop crying. Thanks, DS

Crank/cam angle sensor? Pump is the obvious one though, if it doesn't prime when you turn it to ON then either the pumps gone up the fcuk or there's dodgey power connection to the pump - check these first, especially the ones on top of the tank where your passengers park their ass

Did you remove the oil filler cap while it was draining?

Profec's are good, Apexi too, avoid Gizzmo, Hybrid, or anything else you find cheap on trademe

I've tried it so I will continue to knock it. Upper cylinder cleaner did absolutely nothing to my VOD, nor would I expect it to. It's great stuff for making smoke and improving the milage, but turbo wise it didn't come anywhere near to "greatly minimize" the VOD :

I have a squeaky drivers door, can the upper cylinder cleaner "greatly minimize" that too? :

Yep.. If the CE light was not on when you were stationary, it should start flashing when you hit 11kmph to tell you that it's all wiped. Stop, engine off, unplug, then you're back in business

With the green and black connectors together you only need to hit 11kmph to wipe the error codes, so do-able in a driveway and even in reverse

Chips have their good points, they can remove the cuts and spice up your fuel/ign maps if done well. They suck at boost control though, I'd never rely on a factory ECU for boost management - especially with the older ECU's. Even if you did rely on the chip to do your boost you're stuck with that one boost setting until you get a new chip. At least with a boost controller you can set it to whatever you want whenever you want to. Ideally if you just want to run more boost you'd want to run a good aftermarket controller for boost, and if you hit the ECU limits then think about a chip or maybe just a fuel cut defender. If you want to tweak the rest of the maps at the same time then controller + chip are your only options to do it properly without forking out for an aftermarket ECU.

You don't need your ECU chipped/re-tuned if you increase the boost, it already knows how much fuel to put in. The only time you would need to re-do the fuel map is if you tried running boost beyond what the map caters for, but in most cases the upper limit of boost/load on the map is around where the injectors upper limit is anyway. Chip your ECU if you want to alter the ignition timing, alter the A/F ratios (you can lean them out considerably by split-railing the fuel lines), upping the boost without a EBC, or removing cuts. I would get a boost controller and try upping the boost - if its beyond what the ECU can handle then it will let you know. As for TM chips, I would demand to see results from their original test car. Modifying the firmware on a car you haven't even tested anything on is asking for trouble. Dynamic seems quite good, but I would still be wary incase they are re-worked jap tunes. Avoid ModControl! [/2cents]

Possibly a dumb question, but have you checked the spotlight bulbs?

Power surges + flash are never a good recipe for data retention. I don't like your chances of restoring it though, subaru would be unwise to leave the odo open to reflashing, at least not without some fairly tight security. On the bright side though, what's the resale value these days on a 98 GTB with very low k's?

Jacking the engine is only for those who don't have woman-pleasing fingers. Here's some happysnaps and a rant about how I managed to do it. It's for a TT, but it'd work for just about any coil in head subie. As usual, stylish green arrows point the way. The camera sucks, and there's not much room in there so sorry for the blurry photos, click on the thumbnails for bigger versions. G'luck! 1. Here's the stuff you need to get rid of. Battery is optional, but free's up a bit more room. Washer bottle can be a pain, but i'll go in to that below. 2. Here's what you need to remove to get the airbox out. Careful with the AFM, it's like a delicate flower. Some douche mechanic dropped mine once and it died a slow and painful death until I noticed the large dent in the casing. When replacing the pipe from AFM -> Intake be sure to keep the clamps in such a way as you can screw them tight again. Nothing sucks more than finally getting it back together only to realise the clamps are stuck around the wrong way. 3. Here you can see one of the coilpack connectors. If you're replacing the coils then you'll need to undo this. I did one at a time so I didn't get them mixed up, but I think there's some colouring system that also indicates which is the front and which is the back connector. 4. On to the other side now.. The arrows indicate all that you need to remove the battery and washer bottle. The battery is optional, but taking it out gives you a bit more room to get the front coil/plug out. The washer bottle is a right bastard if it's full of water, because as soon as you remove the washer hoses water starts going everywhere. I either run it dry (because i'm too lazy to fill it up again) or make sure all the electrical plugs and bolts are removed before I disconnect the hoses. Here's a close up of the washer bottle electrical connectors. And another of the rotten hoses that you need to take off. 5. For the rest of the snaps I'm going to use the passenger side as an example. You can see in this image the 2x coil packs sitting in the heads. These are fairly new (at the time) coils so they aren't a dirty poo-brown colour yet. 6. You can see here a single bolt that holds the coilpack in. From memory it's a 12mm bolt, and due to space restrictions I tend to use a spanner rather than a socket to undo it. 7. Once the bolt is loose if you can get your fingers around the coil then wiggle it free, otherwise grab the connector lead and pull it out carefully. They tend to be jammed in a bit and fly out rather quickly all of a sudden, which I'm sure does wonders for them. You can see here where the plug goes inside the rubber cover of the coilpack, which isn't the easiest thing to do, but more on that later. Anyway, if you're only doing the coils then stop here and repeat for all of the other coilpacks. I did the plugs at the same time so I shall continue on. I also only did one coil/plug at a time to avoid mixing up front/back coils. 8. So here's our gaping plughole with the plug sitting in it still. Thankfully someone bought me a socket set with a sparkplug socket and flexible connector so the task of getting the bugger out wont be that hard. It is tight for room though, so woman pleasing fingers are key. Here you can see my socket working it's magic on the hole. It's fairly easy to get the socket on the plug, just make sure it's on there right before you start unscrewing it. Because of the limited room to move the socket you should either get a smaller one (my socket is huge), or unscrew it to a point where you can just use your hands and the plug-socket to undo it the rest of the way by hand. 12. Once it's out just put the new plug in the end of the socket and re-insert into the hole. I do it carefully by hand at first so as to not cross thread the plug. Once it becomes too hard to do by hand I re-attatch the flexi connector and the rest and tighten it up. 13. Once the plug is nicely back in it's hole the interesting job of putting the coil back in is upon us. It's a bit of an art I think, but this is how I do it. I put the coilpack in the hole but not all of the way. Then I force the coilpack to the top of the plughole and push it in further until it stops as the bottom of the rubber sheath bit bangs in to the spark plug electrode. Then I slowly move the coil downwards while pushing in, and usually the electrode slips in to the coilpack and slides up as I push. You'll know if you've got it in right as the coil pack will slide right in to the head. If you've ****ed it up then the coil pack will hang out quite some way and the bolt wont go in. 14. Bolt up the coilpack using the spanner again, and you're all done with that coilpack/plug. Hope this is of help to someone!