ReubenH

The pinks aren't Showa Gymkhana struts are they? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f179/t119577-japan-sti-gymkhana-struts-sti-springs-rare.html If they are, sell them to me for $2, they aren't worth anything... *cough* Yup, i have a modifieed socket with the sides ground down to get a vice grip working on em. There are sockets you can buy though, that you just chuck a spanner on the outside of.

I think it looks like balls. As also stated, the factory bumber with the lip looks damn fine.

Anyone know this size of S202 wheels? cause they fit I want some.

I got it the moment i saw it too. Sheeez. I'm so going to rock this thread when i'm up in aucks in a few weeks.

Less boost for town driving means less fuel used? Only if you gate it eveywhere. If you want to save fuel, just don't get to boost, then it makes SFA difference what it's set too. Regardless, having an EBC is great. I use high and low at 2 different times. Low boost for when i lend the car to someone, and for when i'm forced to use 95. All other times it's set to 18psi.

Installed these things. The white things are spacers, that sort out the minor ass sag from running impreza suspension. The downside is, the studs on the top hats are just 2mm too short for me to be able to have the strut brace bolted in. So it's either get the thinner spacers, or go without a strut brace. Grumbles. These things just magically work to give you camber. But only after you say the magic F, S, and C words. Going for an alignment today tomorrow, we'll see if the camber is sorted

The topic of making more 4-plug to 3-plug adaptors has come up again, and I'm wondering if I can buy some female 4-plug harness ends form Denso, or from elsewhere. I've just spend a hour googling, and didn't find much. I found a company (Sumitomo) that does denso style plugs, and a few places that sell them, but i couldn't see any big ECU plugs. Does anyone here know where i may be able to find a female 4-Plug ECU Harness connector thingie mabobs? Failing that, i'll keep pillaging old 4-plug ECU's for them, but it would be soooooo much nice if i actually had proper connecters, i could start making them to sell if i did.

I'm with joker, whilst he failed on his last two shockers, the media def needs someone UN-PC to counter the pussification of the media. It's just no fun if you can't make jokes or say s*** on TV. (or in this forums, fucking swear filter) Anyway 'its-a-boy-racer-car' host now, that's pretty sad. I'm guessing he didn't take it for a drive down a nice back road?

Maybe it could be something to do with the heater core or thermostat or something, causing an initial overheat? Just chucking ideas around.. Maybe use some aftermarket head studs and get a bit more torque into em next time. But only after you figure out why you would have blown 2 sets of HG's.

Caged, you'd be the first to bring this up, maybe your original regulators were fucked? Cause i aint ever head of this before Been running a walbro in mine for nearly a year now, never had a single issue, never noticed any differences, car does not run any richer than it did before. Was $180 though GFB, install took less than an hour in my BG, and i had never done one before.

Haha, i was going to say, surely that'd be easier than removing the light and bumper

Maybe i'll finally be able to take a photo of my car at night. It's hard to photograph a black car at night. Though with this method, it might actually make it very easy.

Kia optima owners must be feeling awesome because of this. "Subaru actually used my car in their latest advertising campaign!"

A+++ Good shit man.

THis is ODB were talking about, that's not gonna happen.

The Mediocrity. I kind of like it, really shows where subaru is heading these days! http://www.autoblog.com/2010/10/05/subaru-launches-2011-mediocrity-marketing-campaign-w-video/#continued

Yup, black's a tricky one. People think that just cause it's black, it's automatically badass, and for some reason, they love chucking em on white cars. This doesn't work! The contrast is too great, that the wheels just disappear, turn into black blobs... You could spend $3000 on a set of black mags, or just get some steelies, and no one will be able to tell the difference as you roll down the street. White on white is a far better combo, and so is dark bronzy or silvery colours on silver cars. What works though, is a polished lip, the silver goes with the silver, that's what becomes the focus point of the wheel, and saves the whole wheel from vanishing. The spokes sorta just don't matter in this case, you can go 5 spoke like above, or BBS style, or anything, it won't make a difference.

Painting the factory mags black is just cheap and nasty. If you want black, do it like this chap

Maybe you should get some of these f**kers if you haven't already. They're damn expensive though :-X Sounds like it was a fun day regardless though

Eeeeeeexcelent ;D And the GTB is dirty again, covered in pollen. Nice... chur queenstown.

If you have all the 20G stuff there, just run with it, mixing and matching parts is probably inappropriate at this time. On further thought, i really would suggest to just keep in simple and stick to a single version at this stage. And you're right, maybe a 3-plug swap is something you can do in future.

Washed it, after 2 or 3 months of procrastination. Too bad it's dust and pollen season. Oh well, makes for cool photo's

That's version 2 mate, the guy doesn't know what he's talking about. This confusion often arises with the chassis code, as version 2 = GC8C. Not hard to see why they somethings think they have a V3. V3's are GC8D. (GC8A = "Version 0" that's why). As for pro's and cons of the V3 or EJ20K intake setup and loom. Pro's: No failure prone coil packs, yellow 440cc injectors, bigger dual entry intercooler, newer sensors, newer wiring? There's not allot to be honest, the main reason is to get the yellows in there while using a stock ECU. It's a null point if you go aftermarket management in future. Cons: You gotta lean what is different, what's the same, and how to mix and match the two. While entirely possible and easy for someone who knows these engines in and out, it can be hard for someone unfamiliar, and allot of money can be lost in buying parts that don't work, or are said to be, for example, EJ20K parts, when they are infact what you already got - EJ20G parts. ~ I should probably make this clear. Gen 1 legacy = BC5 (sedan), or BF5 (wagon), and they have EJ20G's. Legacy gear has additional wiring to run the water pump for the water to air intercooler, and the ECU has pins for this too. Version 1 and 2 impreza = GC8B and GC8C (GF for wagon). These also have EJ20G's, there are some differences, these actually have the second generation of EJ20G, but the intake manifold, throttle body, turbo intake etc. is the same. The main difference is they have an air to air intercooler, and so no wiring for an intercooler water pump. Other wise though, more or less the same as the legacy EJ20G's. Version 3 and 4 impreza = GC8D and GC8E. This is the EJ20K generation, with the 3 plug loom and yellow top injectors, bigger dual entry intercooler, etc. etc. BUT HERE'S WHERE IT GETS TRICKY. The EJ20G was also available for this generation. This, the 3rd version of the G was found in foresters, auto's, and wrx wagons for version 3 and 4.. Manual WRX sedans, and all STi's got the EJ20K. The 3rd rev of the 20G however is more or less exactly the same on the outside as the 20K, so new loom, intake, intercooler, coil pack setup etc. The difference lies in the ECU, injectors, and engine internals. The 20G's still ran grey top 380cc injectors, but the loom and stuff is all 3-plug like the STi's EJ20K. So it's a bit of a mix'n'match. They can be useful, if you want to get a 3-plug loom going, you can use one of those ECU's, and not have to worry bout the yellow injectors and orange AFM, good for a "i've swapped loom, but haven't got round to the STI bits yet" sort of deal. I've known quite a few people who've done this to iron out things before commiting to the STi/EJ20K parts upgrade. For more on what the chassis codes mean, check here http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11849.0.html And a useful, and mostly accurate decoder can be found here http://www.scoobyprojects.co.uk/technical/appliedmodel.shtml

clean the throttle body man. And give it a good CRC or something once cleaned. This could be related to your idle issues (that was you wasn't it?).

Tis normal, stop worrying about it, and enjoy it. That's my opinion at least, it's very much standard fare for the older subies. Also it's technically an afterfire afaik, but no one ever says that.