ReubenH

We also have this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-202833195.htm Built short block by PBMS. But i imagine atleast another $1500 getting the heads dealt to, and things like cambelts and water pumps etc though. And the 20K is from the V3/4 STi. The EJ20R could be called the twin turbo version of the K, they have ALLOT in common. The EJ20R only came in manual GTB's and RSB's from 96-98. btw, i think the 20K is also the WRX and forrest engine too.

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/58/83547858_full.jpg yeah, the plate thing whatever it's called. So that would be an EJ20H, If palwow got it, he'd be using an EJ20R ECU, injectors, AFM etc, on EJ20H heads and block. Not a good combo. It would work i imagine, but he'd have less power. I still think buying a built longblock is the best option. Like a 20K or 20R

That engines from an auto though... you want one from a manual.

I don't know if you'll have problems though. You'll just have to wait and see, but i reckon you should be alright, just might need some perswaiding in the end. After all, it's possible to stick V7 STi intercoolers in a V3/4 engine bays after some fussing about.

Is it a manual? Cause it's probably the big end bearing. You will need allot more than 2K to get it fixed. you best option would be something like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-203372743.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-203458367.htm or even http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-203458368.htm Then you gotta add things in like 6 packs and pizza for the good guy's on CS to come and help you, an engine crane hire, cambelts/pumps/tensioners/gaskets etc. etc. if you buy a shot block or long block without a cambelt.

Other easy way to tell is to read the little plaque on the passenger side strut tower. ;D

SteveH Yeah, dunno why i use it, but 99% of the time it's me.

14psi, just means you're not getting as much power, nothing actually wrong with it i think. And yes, the STi ECU is very different, driving with one is good fun. But you'll want to get 16-18 PSI in there pretty quick. And yeah, i'm curious on the auto fozzy. Don't tell me they get that 1-plug-wonder ECU than the Auto GTB's do. I will laugh if that's the case I sometimes wonder if they did that just to spite them. "Hah, no STi conversions for YOU"

There's also two types that are silver and have the tuned by STi sticker on it. The V3/4 ones, and the V5/6 ones i think. Only difference is the BOV flange. The problem you may have is that the throttle body on the intake manifold might be a bit further back than on the V3-6 manifolds. That may make things a titer fit, but i'm unsure - it could be just fine. What intake manifold are you using? I assume you have an EJ20G one?

Yeah, that's the thing with the TT. I was normally right into the redline before changing when going for it. Little wonder the GTB's blow big ends early on in life when you have to rape it to get any power. The upshot i found with the ZS controller was the extra room you have with the primary. 4000rpm was just too soon to switch, i'd normally shift around 4000-4500 when just cruising. Before the ZS controller i was constantly hitting VOD. After, i didn't know i had a TT pretty much.

Yep, and the SVX too. what's the old school one... an EG33? I've heard it's got the same bore and stroke as the EJ22 sorryy, getting OT there.

He had a write up about it, i'll try find it. Yep, here it is. http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/566/gtbblueneoneyebjz5.jpg

I did these scans last year for the old keyless entry thread. Those 2 pages are the only 2 in the manual about it. Rehost to IMGUR

If you can't touch it, then yeah, ZS controller FTW. I would never drive a TT without one.

Yeah, it's allot of work for essentially no power gain, just a different power curve. It's well worth it, but only if you really want it if you know what i mean. I enjoyed doing it greatly though

Yep, the zerosports sequential controller is really your best bet to controlling it to how you want it. The ZS controller simply allows you to change 2 values. The crossover point, the RPM at which it switches from primary turbo, to both turbo's. And the return point, at which RPM it drops back to single turbo. By setting it higher you can avoid VOD for longer, and the higher RPM helps spool the secondary faster. It won't let you set the TT point lower than 3000RPM btw, so you can't trick it into being a parralell setup. Not that you'd want to... The only thing better than a ZS contrtoller IMHO is a single conversion. But that's me, not everyone agrees that TT is a bucket of fail.

Pretty much all 2.5's have this problem. "Phase-I"'s are by far the worst. And it is a very very well know problem in the subie community. The reason i most often as to why they blow HG's all the time is because the cylinder is just too big, and unsupported (open deck). Apparently the cylinder wall flex over time brakes the seal and before you know it, blown HG. I've heard the EJ25 simple called a bored and stroked 2L, you could say the block was not designed to cope with such a large bore. BTW, the other well known issue that you should know about. Gen 2 legacy GTB's with the EJ20R. They love blowing big end bearings once they get past 100,000K.

I've always liked this shot of your beastie too

Right. 4-Plug EJ20H owners. This includes some Auto GT's and RS's. The B specs are the 1-plug wonders (*facepalm*). This is for you, it should be all you need to get a 20G ECU working. Sorry i don't have a higher res copy It's colour coded too, uncoloured means it's the same. Um, coloured things are different. yeah. The legacy EJ20G ECU will have things like the intercooler water pump, the WRX EJ20G won't. etc.

6. Epilogue and Notes. Well. What can i say. It's one of those projects that start out seeming fairly simple... then get very complicated... But once you're done, it actually seemed quite easy... ??? It took me three and a half months to do.. but 3 months of that were taken up by my engine rebuild. The conversion itself, only took one (full time) week! add another day or two on for the engine lift and drop, and ta-da, a 2 week project at max (After posting this up, someone did it in a single weekend, including the engine lift!!). I hope that my shopping list will allow you to gather every last piece you need before even starting. There's not a whole lot left to do from here. I can't actually remember... Some said beware, the ECU will spit fault codes at you like a monkey on crack, but i did a whole engine rebuild, and conversion at once, and didn't get a single CEL! There's not a whole lot to get wrong! It really is a fun project, and WELL worth it. Im adding this in a year after doing mine, and i must say, there is NOTHING like single turbo. I now look at TT's with distain almost, i have no idea how i managed to cope with VOD. Having a single turbo really is a joy, it's so so SO much easier to work on, and work with. There is great support for aftermarket engine goodies, since you'll effectively had a V3 STi engine. Notes: Newer model turbo's like VF39's have different outlets, that point rearwards, instead of forwards like the 22's and 24's etc. This isn't an issue, it only requires you to trim the turbo-y-pipe hose down. Any turbo from a single turbo subaru will work! Twin scrolls will require a twin scroll oil sump, headers and up-pipe, which could double your conversion cost easily. Some may deem that an acceptable price to pay. Version 5/6 intercoolers do not fit V3/4 Intake manifolds. Their BOV, or aftermarket BOV flange conflicts with the 3/4's idle control valve. While it is possible to make a custom bracket to fit, it will be a source of pain for you. Also, a switch to either a V3/4 or 5/6 STi intercooler will require you to find a V3/4 Intercooler bracket (yep, V3/4 bracket to fit a V5/6 intercooler). These are hard buggers to find, i ended up driving 150km's (return) to waiuku to get one from the wrecker there, at a cost of $25 (and probably $50 in fuel at todays prices) On the above intercooler 'drama' as Jase likes to call it (he wanted me to add this one in). It can be solved by simply buying a front mount. Remember that your car, (to anyone behind a counter), is now a Version 3 STi, and any part that can fit a GC8 wrx, will fit your legacy. Jason got a GC8 bolt on FMIC kit for his legacy when he did the conversion, and that was drama free (as far as FMIC kits are concerned anyway). He lost a fog light to it though (it couldn't fit past the GTB's foggie) and he needed a single turbo coolant over flow tank though (easy peasy to get from a pick-a-part). The downside is this can add another grand to the conversion easily. Prepare to spend exorbitant amounts for seemingly benign parts from wreckers. For example, that little pipe that goes from the turbo intake pipe, to the ICV cost me $45 from a wrecker! Simply cause it was obscure, and he saw that i HAD to get one. It would have been something like $5 from a Pick-a-part, but none had the applicable model WRX's for my conversion at the time. The fact that no V3/4 WRX's/STi's were at any Pick-A-Part in Auckland probably raised the budget of the conversion by a few hundred dollars at least. I wish you luck ever finding one that lasts for more than a few days... I still managed to squeeze through the whole project at under $1500 though. (not including things like oil, tools, and crane hire; that all went under the rebuild budget ) The heater hoses are fine in the TT engine bay, they do work with a single turbo TMIC. But that doesn't stop you finding the line that goes to the water pump from a V3/4, it would make the whole lot go together much more smoothly. Update: I've heard twice now, of TT heater hoses rubbing through and bursting! I now STRONGLY advised you convert to the single turbo style heater hoses (this requires getting the metal pipes that go all the way to the water pump). Turns out i simply got lucky with mine, and the settled before they burst. They have been working for 3 years in their squished state just fine. I still have the single turbo pipes ready to go on when the time comes though. The turbo oil return... This could quite possibly be the most annoying thing you'll have to do during the whole project. I was lucky enough that "rex-in" had some old RS heads he wasn't using and couldn't sell, so we stole the return from that. any single turbo subaru will have one, and there'll always be a single turb of some description at a pick-a-part (gen 1 leggy's, and V1/2 wrx's), but getting that thing off while stuck in a pick-a-part wouldn't be a fun job at all!!! (i'm sure there's worse... like anything to do with a TT for example ) Basically just hammer the things base a few times to loosen it up, then hammer it left and right and jimmy it out. It's very easy to break, you saw the picks of the primary side one i tried to take out... Alternately you can heat up the block and try loosen it up like that as ben did to get mine out. Rage 3" downpipes don't bolt up to factory mid pipes A rage 3" midpipe from a wrx WILL fit, no matter what the twat behind the counter says (you just need to lengthen it by about 5-10cm's, i did that for a 5er). It pays not to mention it's going on a legacy at all, just lie and pretend it's for your V3 STi au. This applies for EVERYTHING you buy for your engine after the conversion. If you break the charcoal canister, don't worry, you don't need it. It connects to the purge control solenoid on the intake manifold that you can break very easily too. Besides, it's a waste of vac line hooking it up, because the factory rail it has, is thrown out the with the factory fuel rails! I bitched about doing the right thing and getting obscure brackets for the turbo. This, this is different, it's useless. You will just get to smell petrol fumes every now and then, which i love anyway. Other model legacy's. If you have a Auto BG/BD. Ha ha, tough, what were you thinking buying a auto GTB... Honestly... If you have a manual with 20H and a 4-plug ECU, you can use an EJ20G ECU, but there's about 10 or 15 wires you need to re-pin. Most wires are fine. If you have a manual BH/BE, (EJ208) Your engine i think is more or less very similar to the V5/6 STi engines. The ECU's have been used, but i can tell you what needs to be done to get it working. I also don't have any pinouts for you. Update: We have found the compression is higher in the EJ208 than the EJ207, so much higher that detonation is unavoidable. You either need to drop some thicker HG's in, redo your short block, or run an aftermarket ECU with custom tune. Credits: Thanks to Jason (FastFour) and Paul (ScoobyDoo) for advice and info on the single conversion. And to the websites i stole the wiring diagrams from. And a big big thank you to Cameron (Fused) for helping me out and doing most the work , and to Ryan (Boostin) for helping me tare apart the engine, and put it back together! Also to Ben (Rex_in) for the oil drain and help, and to David (Miller) for your help too And to everyone else who helped me at some stage. You are all what make club sub a great place Also thanks to, Strong For Subaru, and Pick-A-Part For supplying me with the bits and pieces I needed for the conversion. Strong ship nation wide, and now offer discounts to clubsub members, so ask for Nathan or Gerald, tell em Reuben sent yah, and you will receive exceptional service and great discounts! When asking for single turbo parts, for the single conversion, do mention that it's for the single conversion! They have now delt with so many, they pretty much know what you need! And last but not least, the final product, i only realised now, after 2 years, i had never shown this in the conversion thread... lol...

5.1 ECU. The reason i said in the beginning, that this thread was for EJ20R legacy's only, is mainly because of this; the ECU wiring. You need only solder 4 wires, and you're done! Auto's have a single plug ECU that isn't compatible with any STi ECU, so you're buggered there. My official line on it is you should have got a bloody manual you pansy! Ha ha ;D (Just kidding, auto's are great.. i really mean it :) I am also unsure on the ECU's for the Manual EJ20H drivers... And BH/BE drivers. But what i have found out is the 4-plug EJ20H's are somewhat compatible with the 4Plug EJ20G's. I have posted a pinout for you guy's at the bottom of this thread. BE/BH drivers, V5/6 STi ECU's for the EJ208's, i have not seen pinouts for either, so up to you to research that one. But it has been done! Anyway, the wiring for EJ20R drivers: Wire A9 (loom) into A10 (ECU). Wire A22 and A23 (loom) into A9 (ECU). Ground B18 (ECU). Swap A19 with A3 <- makes V3/4 ECU talk to the correct boost control solenoid. And the not so technical drawing of the above description for us simple minded folk. It's that easy. If you compare the links below, you'll quickly find out V3's and 4's Just use a EJ20R loom! All the TT bits are blanks on the V3/4 ECU's. here's some documents to back everything up V3/4, Plug B137. Courtesy of http://www.northursalia.com/ V3/4, Plug B136 and B135. Courtesy of http://www.northursalia.com/ Twin turbo 3 plug pinout. Courtesy of UK Twin Turbo Legacy Register 5.2 Coil Pack Mod. Hokay, quick addition to the conversion how too. I've been asked to do a write up on the coil pack mod, to rid ones self of the coil on plug system, and go to the sexy, cheap, and reliable coil pack system. Eaaasssyyyy. You will need a Coil pack and leads off any Version 3 or 4 impreza, or N/A BG/BD. A matching 5 pin ignitor, and some additional wires and some actual loom stuff. Refer to the pictures to see what these look like! For the wiring, I just spliced into the engine loom to get my power and ground, and 2 ignition signals. For the power, I think I just stole the 12v supply that goes to the coil packs, makes enough sense. And for the ground, there's a general ground wire you can tap into. Again, the pictures show which wires I used clearly. Then from there I just made a new branch off from the loom with some wires I had lying around, dedicated to the coil pack and ignitor. It's very strait forward! I think i'll let the pics and wiring diagram do the rest of the work for me.

4. The conversion part 2. Right, now to deal with the intake manifold. Strip the TT manifold of all it has. And you will be doing a split fuel rail while we're at it . Take photo's of how the loom is arranged. Also, if you break this, don't worry. leave the vac lines off it, it's not needed. But leave it plugged in so you don't get a CEL (it's to do with emissions, it goes off to the charcoal cannister) Split fuel rail mod: This is a very easy mod, you need: 8 feet of EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) hose. 8 ft is really just enough. I think you need 9 feet for BE's and BH's as the filter is not in the engine bay A few hose clamps (6 should do it, you can reuse the originals for the rest) 2 T sections A second right hand fuel rail, with luck you picked one up with the intake manifold Now, cut your fuel rails like so: Now take the injectors out of your old left hand rail, and swap them over. TAKE CARE. There was a great thread on how to take them out, but sadly it was lost in the sever F*** up of 09. Basically, it's a c*nt of a job, and it's easy to brake something. just be patient, and use force. Bolt both fuel rails onto the intake manifold, and cut your EFI to length. I recommend you arrange them under the BOV return/crank case breathers. it makes things tidy and easy to install. Sorry, no pics of how to arrange it. You'll see what i mean though. And this is from my third time doing it. Now put the final length of EFI hose on the 2 T sections, loop it around as you don't know what length the supply and returns should be yet. You'll cut it once the manifold is installed, and the engine is in the car. Mark which line is the fuel return, that will be the line with the fuel regulators on it. This line will be longer FYI. Once the manifold is on and the engines in the car, don't vorget to hook up the vacuum lines on the regulators too. That's the split rail mod complete. simple huh Now put everything back together on the new intake manifold. Note: Remeber the crank case breather hose to the turbo intake pipe, the TT one is different, either make one or buy the subaru part. Also, if you're using a V3/4 Intake manifold, you need the TT's throttle cable bracket. Now there are some parts not actually required from a single turbo here. Those being the rockercover breather hose, and ICV line. If you used a V3/4 Intake manifold, and not your TT's intake manifold, you must use a V3/4 ICV line, but you can use the TT's rocker cover breather line. You have to hack out the old TT rockercover breather line from the other 2 lines it's attached to, From this to this. You won't have to do any of this hacking if you used BOV return line/rocker cover breather line from the V3/4 manifold (recommended method! ) Ok, so now we have a complete single turbo intake manifold of some description, and split fuel rail to ensure that Cyl 3 doesn't melt after you inevitibly crank the boost up... Put the sucker back on the engine and ensure you connect everything up, like the crank case breathers and purge control solenoid (that green thing you broke... ) ~ Sweet, that's simple aint it. Engine done and dusted! Hardly any work at all is it . And this coming from a damn n00b ;D Now give the engine a once over, check everything is in order, all things plugged in, all lines plummed correctly etc. Now you can drop the engine back in, or move on to the next step if you never took it out. There are a few things to note at this point. You'll be wanting to pop the intercooler back on by now, but just remember this. The line that goes from the water pump to the heater core on a V3/4 runs around the side of the clutch housing, but in the TT's it runs up and over right where the intercooler Y pipe wants to be (would normally go between the two TT intercooler pipes). If you want to be really pedantic, you can replace that line, but it's a waste of time as the TT one just gets squashed and pushed around, with no ill effect (been running it for a whole year now, all is fine). Be mindful of that however, as you re-install the intercooler! Don't forget about the O2 sensor either, the TT's one will stretch over and fit behind the turbo just fine, but putting the intercooler back on can stretch the wire, i'm lucky mine didn't tear off... Just give it pleanty of slack turbo side before putting the intercooler back on, and you'll be fine. Right, onto the Black Box of Dooooom! Oh noes! ... It's actually pretty simple really... Jason showed me the pic below when i had to do it, it's really all i needed. Basically make your solenoid box look like the one below, and you're set. Now, in the shopping list i said to get a "*Single turbo solenoid bracket" and "*Pressure select solenoid". While you don't have to, it just makes the TT conversion that much more complete. The bracket i said to get for obvious cosmetic reasons, the solenoid, just so you can lose the big whore of a plug with a mess of wires coming out of it that you won't using any more. The picture of my end result shows this well (thanks cameron for the wiring on that one) If you don't know how to plumb up the single turbo solenoids, simply get a mate, or someone from clubsub over who has a V3/4, and copy their engine bay. Just hook up all the vac lines like theirs, and you're set. I'll point out here that the boost control solenoid there... is NOT the solenoid the V3/4 ECU will talk to. It talks to the solenoid in the passenger side fender. It's just a simple wire change, and is noted in the wiring guide. Now that's pretty much it. Put everything back in the engine bay make sure EVERYTHING is plugged in, like radiator fans, starter motor ground wires etc. etc. and put that intercooler on. Another note on the intercooler; If you get a V5/6 one like i did, thinking "it's the same shape and size, it'll fit right in". You're wrong, it doesn't You need a V3/4 bracket for it, and you'll have to make a BOV adaptor than can fit in behind the ICV, you'll see what i mean. As a result, you'll just have to scavenge the Y pipe off the underneath of it and stick it on your GTB intercooler, untill you can sort out the V5/6 intercooler proper. You'll have to trim some of the long end off to fit it (Short end goes to the turbo). If you got a newer turbo with the inlet that points towards the back of the engine back, you'll have to trim even more off. i took about 30mm off mine in the end, and it was still a tight squeeze, but it's entirely possible, even with the bastard heater hoses. Ta-da, all done. Now the fun part, the ECU wiring.

3. The conversion part 1. First things first, Get rid of everything on the left side (passengers side) of the engine that is to do with the primary turbo. This includes brackets, turbo, turbo oil supply and return lines, and coolant supply and return lines. The oil supply is in an odd place behind the cambelt, i can't recall if you need to take the cambelt off or not to get at it. Blank the oil return and supply with a bolt, and a bit of gasket glue. put the glue around under the head of the bolt after you're put the bolt in, but before you're tightened it. we don't want bits of silicone blocking the coolant system now do we? At least that was my reasoning. The coolant return is also an easy one to block off with a bolt, but unfortunatelly the oil return is a right old bitch. Some pics of these steps: Once you get off the oil's return line, you have to block the holes. Now i tried doing it with a frost plug. First, i couldn't find any, then when i did, none of them fitted!, i needed a 15.5mm plug. I gave up, and just welded what was left of the return, and put it back in after all that effort to pull it out! the other option is to simply slice the rubber line for it, cram a bolt in, and do it up with a hose clamp. that was too messy and rangi for me to even consider. Give the left head a good look over and see if there's anything else left, i think i coverd it all, it seemed to be pretty damn easy. Now, onto the primary side. You will need to keep the turbo's oil supply line. The coolant supply you will need to make up, unless you get a turbo from the '98 ish era, such as a VF24 or 22, In which case you can buy a proper line from a dealer. The coolant return line you can make your own as well. BUT, the oil return line in the block, you really should steal one from a single turbo. I imagine that will be the hardest piece to find in the whole conversion! One from ANY single turbo will be fine, just get it from a pick apart. You will need to take the TT one out, and hammer the new one it. This is because the TT's sticks out the right side and conflicts with the new up-pipe, but the Singles sticks to the left and up: Once you have the coolant and oil returns sorted, time to stick on the exhaust manifold, and up-pipe. Don't forget the heat sheilds. With that in place, on goes the bracket. Do get one, you could damage something if you don't have it secured properly. People will try talk you out of it some of these seemingly useless things cause it's too much hassel, but seriously, do the job right first time round and bother with the little things.. Now stick on the turbo! Make sure you got the rubber pipe for the turbo oil return on. There is a pipe from the TT's system you can use (i think its from the secondary BOV) but it's short, and only just fits. i would recommend getting the subaru part for this. Then on goes the intercooler bracket Right, so new problems: The up-pipe bracket i found conflicted with the oil supply line. The angle grinder fixed that. Then the intercooler bracket conflicted with the turbo outlet. this is because i got a newer model turbo with an outlet that points towards the back more, The older ones (VF24/23/22 etc) point forward. the angle grinder fixed that too. Check over the engine and make sure everything engine wise is delt to. Next up is the intake manifold and vacuum system.

2. Getting Started. As mentioned above, you do not actually need to pull the engine to complete this conversion, but i think it makes things easier. I'm going to skip how to do it for this thread though. This, mainly cause that's too much writing, and i'll probably forget 90% of what you need to do! If you chose to lift the engine, make sure you have a mate who's done it before to give you a hand, and/or use the service manuals. Also, get yourself a pack of zip lock bags, some tape, and a sharpie to keep all your bolts with their associated part. I didn't, it sucked. Tool's you'll need, will be a socket wrench (set) with a short and long extension, a 14mm impact socket, a power bar, pliers, spanners etc.. and even a little 12mm ratcheting spanner is a huge help for getting the aircon out. Once you have bought all the bits you need, Rip into it! You'll need to take your intake manifold off, your downpipes off, exhaust manifold and turbos. up to you which order. You also need to swap the gear box cross member over if you're getting a bolt on downpipe. You'll want to drain your oil, and coolant too. Onto the conversion 8)

1. Introduction. This thread has been made to store all the tips, tricks, and how-to's on the Legacy Twin Turbo, to single turbo conversion. The following content is based on my conversion, with some research from the ClubSUB forums, and other people who have done the conversion before me. This conversion applies only to the B and C revisions of the BG5/BD5 legacy, that have the EJ20R motor. It is not applicable to BH/BE's, or BG5/BD5 That have EJ20H's. Nor does it apply to the AUTO B's and C's as they have a single plug ECU that is not compatible with the single conversion (unless you reloom). However this doesn't stop you from gaining a bit of knowledge on the how to's of this conversion. I ask you to please read the entire thread through before getting started too. I will be assuming you will be lifting you engine for this, and assuming you know how. It will make life a whole lot more easy for you, but it isn't actually necessary. In fact, it's perfectly possible to leave the engine in for the conversion. Up to you. And lastly, this is only a rough guide, with a few pointers in it, not a manual. Please remember that! And from hereafter i'll be using "V3/4" to simple refer to Version 3 and 4 WRX's, and STi's, and Forresters with the same engine (EJ20K). Also, the source i used for defining what BG/BD models came with EJ20R's was here http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/leggymodels.htm I am pretty confident it is ONLY -MANUAL- GTB's and RSB's. First thing you'll need is a shopping list, expect to pay between $1500 - $3000+ for this, but with luck, that is ALL you'll spend. I've tried to list every last washer and rubber pipe and bottle of fluid, so you don't get any hidden costs, and can run a tight budget. Item's marked with an * are not required, but do make things go allot easier, or make your engine bay tidier etc. I strongly recommend getting everything on the list, and you will see more about them in the thread. A Version 3/4 STi ECU A turbo. Such as a VF22, 24, 30 etc. From a single turbo subaru. Single turbo Coolant supple and return lines. You can make your own Single turbo Oil return line (rubber pipe) There is a pipe from the TT system you can use, but it's short and cut's things fine. Single turbo Oil return line (Metal pipe in block) This will be one hard SoB to find, but you need it. Read stage 3 to find out more. (This pipe, to replace this pipe) Single turbo exhaust manifold. A 2.5L equal length one works too, and offeres better fuel economy. But you won't get that boxer rumble Up-pipe Downpipe. Caution: Some don't bolt up to the factory midpipe, such as the rage downpipes. Single turbo gear box cross member. Needed if you get a bolt on DP, not if you make your own downpipe. Single turbo up-pipe bracket. (the one by the turbo) Single turbo intercooler Y pipe. Anything from V3/4 and 5/6 will work If you get an STi intercooler with your y pipe, you need to find a V3/4 intercooler bracket, they are damn hard to find! Turbo outlet to Y pipe hose *V3/4 Intake manifold, complete. If you do not get a complete one, here is what you'll need for it: *Idle control valve supply line (metal thing that goes on top of the manifold) *BOV *BOV Return line/rockercover breather lines (Don't forget the little rubber hoses that connect it to the rockercovers!)(it's a metal pipe hudden on the underside of the manifold) Turbo Inlet/intake pipe Crank case breather line (I had to make my own) *Right hand fuel rail if you want to do the split fuel rail, more on that later 2 meters of vac line. You may be able to make do with the leftovers from the TT system. Budget for this anyway *Single turbo solenoid bracket (This is so you can replace the BBoD) *Pressure select solenoid (a 3 port solenoid from a single turbo, this is only to tidy up the wiring, you actually already have one in the BBoD that you can use - but it has a great big plug with like 15 wires.) Bolts to block off the primary turbo's Oil supply, return and coolant return lines on the left hand head Gaskets for: Intake manifold *Throttle body (only $3) Exhaust manifold Turbo/up-pipe Turbo/downpipe Coolant Oil Oil filter + Sump plug washer *Silicone radiator hoses *Silicone coolant hoses (nows a good time to replace them! .... DO IT!) And Budget an extra $200 for crane hire, and tools you don't have etc. If you wish to do the split fuel rail mod while you're at it (estimated cost, $150), which i recommend you do since the intake manifold will be coming off anyway, all you need is 8 feet of EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) hose. 8 ft really is just enough. A few hose clamps (6 should do it, you can reuse the originals for the rest) 2 T sections A second right hand fuel rail, with luck you picked one up with the intake manifold