delta

I'm tempted, especially by the track day. It has been almost 2 years since my last track day and I need my fix It's a little far from AKL though...

Coming from a RWD prone to oversteer, I totally feel ya when you say that the legacy understeers! Front braces / sway bars or anything like that will likely increase understeer so I would avoid those. +1 to what @JGM said, good sum up. I went with : - Whiteline adjustable RSB (20mm) on the stiff setting - Ultra racing lower brace - Sachs shock absorbers The RSB makes a massive difference in the middle of the corner and corner exit (allows you to put some more power without understeer). It won't fix the understeer if you enter a corner too fast though. If your suspensions are shot it's worth changing them as well. In my case it was night and day between the Sachs and the 150 000 km stock suspensions. I installed the Ultra racing lower brace after installing the RSB and I don't think it makes a noticeable difference. The reason I bought it was to reinforce the sway bar mounts. My sway bar mounts were actually slightly bent when I installed the lower brace so I reckon it's a good purchase. The way my car is currently setup, I reckon I have a good balance for performance applications. When cornering at the grip limit, at half throttle : - If I accelerate more, I get understeer - If I release the throttle, I get oversteer Which makes it really easy to keep the racing line you want. Except if you like driving at the limit or drifting, this way you can do it at slower speeds (I have shitty tyres and don't mind it) I recommend you try the Michelin PS4 bro. I had the PS3 on 2 cars and they are similar to the RE003, just a little better on the rain. The PS4 are a good notch above in every domain. And they also last longer than both the RE003 and the PS3, which makes good value for the money. When I'm done with my shitty tyres I reckon I'll get these.

Yeah sure, I think it's better to help or it will be too hard to find. It's somewhere in Epsom ... close to a park ... not far from this place : https://goo.gl/maps/nKzgABeK7aP2

Since it took 2 weeks to get things moving, I figured out you guys might need some help. I'm not sure 3 street signs and the name of the park will be enough though

@JGM There you go ! And without cheating ! OLD (Puhi Huia Rd, Mt Eden) NEW

Isn't the excess for windscreen/glass cheaper than the normal excess ?

I think @evowrx has bushings in stock

Yeah ... my post was missing this smiley: Nevermind

You didn't use the same car for the OLD and the NEW location, that's cheating !

Power is for bad drivers

Hahaha ! You jealous prick because you have a high centre of gravity and can't corner fast without risking to rollover

@1randomkiwi 5% of difference in rolling circumference so the speedo should be 5% out, not that it was right before to begin with Very interesting video. It's too bad they don't state the weight of the different wheels they tested; makes the performance comparison incomplete. A comparison between the 16" and 17" GT86 wheels was made by the Japanese and they got a faster lap time with the 16". The 16" rims are 2kg lighter which probably explains the result. Tyres are generally the same weight (or very close) between 16", 17" and 18" versions.

Funnily enough I've never heard of this problem with GT86's or BRZ' (subaru flat-4) I've brought mine to the Nurburgring and know plenty of ppl that did as well with a stock motor and nobody ever had a problem.

Haha, I think I'll leave it like that, it's already low for gravel roads Yep - Way lighter than my previous wheels (made by Enkei, 7.2kg per rim) => better acceleration - Smaller rolling circumference because of smaller tyres => better acceleration - Smaller sidewall => better turn-in

What is so bad about them ? Is the ride is too harsh or something like that ?

Just did something crazy only racers would do. Moved from 17" to 16"

My stock bushes do have a lot of cracking, but doesn't necessarily mean that they are done from what I've read and heard. Anyway, I might change to whiteline bushings in a few months, thanks for the feedback

Interested in people's opinions as well. Do the whiteline bushings make a big difference over stock ? @gotasuby

Worst tyres I've had are Michelin Primacy HP, come stock on the GT86. Only good thing about them is that it feels like you have 400hp But these kind of tyres are perfectly fine for your first track days. It could do with more progressiveness when losing grip though. AD08R are really good for that.

Which is why I started my sentence with "As Far As I Know", didn't know they had sporty tyres Good to know

AFAIK Nexen tyres shouldn't have high levels of grip Make sure that your brake fluid is fresh (less than 1 year old) as well

Hmm that's kind of surprising to me. I know there's some margin for overfilling by design but I would expect the margin to be closer to 1/4 litre than 1/2 litre. AFAIK the main risk is that the oil can get aerated and turn into foam which doesn't lubricate properly. Only time I've seen someone with overfilled oil at a track day, he had smoke come out of the engine bay and we discovered that there was oil all over the place. The oil probably came out of the breather. I reckon he had something like 1/2 litre above full but it was an 86 (Subaru FA20 engine), might be different with older models. EDIT : Oh and he had smoke come out of the exhaust as well, this is what I noticed first And do you guys drain the extra oil after the track day or leave it like that ? Might be bad in the long term, just saying.

I wouldn't do that, there's a reason for the maximum mark and you might just end up killing your engine for another reason (too much oil). If it's your first track day you are probably better off by just checking that the oil level is at the maximum and not going too fast in that corner. I'm not familiar with Manfield, is the problem only occurring if you have a really high level of grip or even with basic road tyres ?

Too bad At least, if they pay for the repair, doesn't really matter if it's more expensive. For my 2006 Outback : AR24U AR18U H354

Maybe a PDR (Painteless Dent Repair) professional could fix it ? It's impressive what you can do with PDR these days Don't know which solution is cheaper though