Flat4

True that haha. Seems to be running all good on boost, when it stops misfiring and revs out past 3.5k

Nah just checked visually and cleaned. Will buy some new ones this weekend, but I don\'t have a lot of time to sort it so if it sounds like it could be the AFM or fuel pump or something else then I\'ll replace them with new ones this weekend as well

Hey guys, Just entered in the Mt Vic hillclimb which is on the 16th March and my Legacy has developed an intermittent misfiring problem. It isn\'t bringing up any codes but my mongrel car has a V5 STi engine wired into it and the diagnostics aren\'t exactly "working". It started with the car not idling a couple of weeks ago driving thru town. This was a problem driving in bumper to bumper traffic. Has happened again a couple of times since. However this issue seemingly fixed itself. I then noticed a misfire on the motorway sitting at just under 100kph in 5th. Didnt think much of it. It escalated quickly as next time I drove in to town, after a 5 min coast down a hill from my house, it started misfiring badly in 1st, 2nd and 3rd (not under much load and even off boost) and rapidly losing power to the point where I had to pull over because I couldn\'t keep up with 20kph traffic. This has happened again several times to varying degrees. It will sometimes run perfectly and sometimes misfire like a mofo. To sum it up: - 2 weeks ago it was cutting out and not idling - Now it doesn\'t seem to cut out but sometimes has a rough idle - Intermittently misfiring, sometimes minor and sometimes like a motherf**ker, progressively losing power until none at all I tried unplugging the AFM when it was running like a dog yesterday and it cut out straight away. Plugged back in, restarted car and it was happy as larry! Before I go and buy heaps of new parts can anyone suggest what could be causing this? AFM? Fuel pump? Spark plugs? Coil pack? Thanks in advance

Just came back from a decent South Island roadie so got some figures. Car: 1997 GTB manual with standard V5 STi engine. Christchurch to Queenstown via Lake Ben Moore - 511km, 47l to fill = 9.2l per 100km Queenstown to Te Anau - 169.5km, 14.93l to fill = 8.8l per 100km Te Anau to Milford Return (steep and windy roads) - 241km, 24.43l to fill = 10.1l per 100km Te Anau to Queenstown then to Wanaka via Crown Range (with a heavy foot) and then to Cromwell - 318km, 34.65l = 10.9l per 100km Around town - 158km, 18.85l = 11.9l per 100km Pretty stoked with those figures!

Around town my V5 STi GTB has been averaging 16-17l per 100km. Mostly short trips and cold running so it\'s probably not too bad but it\'s still going through $40 of 98 for every 100km! At Ruapuna it was burning 1/4 tank for every 5-6 lap session. I work that out to be close to 100l per 100km haha.

Step 7: Check wheel nuts are tight before, during AND AFTER a trackday After snapping a wheel stud the other week I know I will be next time

I\'d definitely be there if I wasn\'t concerned about the bumpy paddock and my G nigga low wagon on soft Tein springs

Both the TS and TS-R have the same quad cam engine

Ruapuna GP + dipper - 1.55 @188kph (speedcut) Ruapuna GP - 1.47 @188kph (speedcut) 1997 Legacy GTB with unmodified V5 STi engine and on shitty road tyres

Josh Mitchell at Crowesports - you probably know him from some of the RATEC events? I talked to him and Trev about what I wanted and they had some good suggestions. [quote name='Roo said: Why not zero toe in the rear? The goal is to make it oversteer on the track so Josh and Trevor Crowe suggested toe out on the rear and I thought I would give it a go. From what I\'ve picked up the consequences of this is that the car probably won\'t be as stable under braking and might have a tendency to be quite snappy around corners (think snap oversteer). It will also make it wander on the road a bit and will wear out the tyres faster. But oversteer is good ;D

Should get it handling nicely

Cheers mate, I\'ve called up TWL so hopefully will grab 20L of it

Left foot braking is usually used for trail braking or to make adjustments to the pitch of the car around corners. It doesn\'t replace your right foot braking. So you might heel n toe when you\'re braking into the corner, then get on the throttle and then as you\'re going around it you might touch the brake with your left foot if you need to make a small adjustment (if for example your car is understeering and you want to transfer some weight to the front wheels). Or, if you\'re going around a higher speed corner where you don\'t need to down change, you might trail brake into the corner to get the back end of the car out a bit because it means you can immediately get on the throttle with your right foot (no need to transition between pedals with the same foot). In reality, unless you are Colin Mcrae it isn\'t going to help you 99.99999% of the time haha

Not always easy to warm up the car before you start it Timmy

Rats. Reckon it will still do the trick or should I spend a bit more on fully synth?

TWL = transport wholesale limited? 122+ GST is cheap, pretty keen to take advantage of that!

Sweet as cheers guys. I\'d love to be in the position to splash out on a 20L but this track day is already cleaning out my account haha. Valvoline Synpower 10w50 goes for about $60 for 5L at Supercheap. Thorpy uses Elf competition oil but I\'m not sure if they do a 10w50

Will a full synthetic be alright in a 140km old engine? I remember when I was looking into it a couple of months ago I was told by a few people to avoid a full synthetic in a car that\'s done a few k\'s. I can\'t remember why though haha

Hey guys It sounds like a few people run different grade engine oils for track days. Since I will probably be doing an oil change before and after it won\'t be much of a hassle for me to do the same. I\'m running a GTB with a V5 STi engine in it and it will be getting a hard time on Monday at Ruapuna. Currently it has 2500km old Valvoline VR1 10w40 in it. Will 10w40 be up to it or should I be chucking in something that\'s designed to be run at higher temps? Cheers

They definitely need amping, they are pretty meaty speakers. The question I was asking was whether it would be better to run a 4 channel and bridge it for the sub or run my existing 2ch amp and another smaller amp So I ended up buying a mono amp to run the sub and kept my existing 2ch amp running the components

If that\'s in reference to my comment about not using the Repco pads, the ones I have here aren\'t TRW pads they are Repco branded "Thermo Quiet" pads I\'ll probably use them anyway though haha

I actually remembered you ran Hawk pads so I gave Racetech a call. Unfortunately they\'re also over $300+ a set but they didn\'t have any in stock anyway I just called Racebrakes in Auckland who were super helpful over the phone and have Ferodo TS2000\'s in stock for $200+ so I bit the bullet and bought those

BP Legacy 316mm 2-pots

From a few calls around - Endless MX-72, Pagid Blue, and Ferodo DS2500 are all well over over $300+ GST Bendix Ultimates are a bit closer to $200 from memory. Then there\'s the Znoelli SP500 at just over $100. Seems to good to be true if they are any good on the track?

Haha not yet, haven\'t decided if I want to fork out a bit extra yet and I haven\'t heard any decent reviews about the Znoelli\'s yet If I could get something decent for sub $300 a full set I\'d be happy. [quote name='DacerX said: at least hes not using silverlines I have some brand new Repco rear pads sitting here but I don\'t think those will be touching the car haha