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ajayel

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Everything posted by ajayel

  1. Did you have any luck getting this car running any better @BMCracer ?
  2. Yeah just 4 bolts but you'll lose a little coolant disconnecting those lines so may need to bleed air out again and it's recommended to use a new TB gasket. You can also hold the throttle open for cleaning with engine off/ignition on & a brick on the accelerator.
  3. if you post up examples of mismatches someone here maybe able to chime in with knowledge or experience
  4. try https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ On that site the PDF manuals tend to be US market , the web versions match JDM better. Check the identification section under general description against your chassis number, my imported 07 is an 08 JDM model year .
  5. IAM 0.0 is the ECU needing more data to make up it's mind but somethings definitely wrong here, as you know! FLKC protects the engine up to 7 or 8 degrees which did get touched on albeit spiked very briefly. Could be so many things but airflow is interesting. After you let off the pedal the throttle closes appropriately but it's taking three or four seconds for the mass airflow reading to reduce. - is that intake chamber crack fixed ? - the pipe between the the air filter and intake chamber has a tab that must line up on the chamber kinda underneath and towards the drive
  6. Just one more ; fbkc (feedback knock correction) I've thought of others that may help, not all available on all vehicles; gear (could be calculated gear) fuel tank pressure (if available) cpc (canister purge) egr steps (exhaust gas re circulation) You don't need these; Engine Load (Relative) (%) Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (V) Main Accelerator Sensor (V) Sub Throttle Sensor (V) Sub Accelerator Sensor (V) Main Throttle Sensor (V)
  7. Might be worth a Romraider test run but prolly don't collect a heap of data until the intake is sealed as that's a vac leak. Please inc. both air fuel ratio sensors, both oxygen sensors and the others mentioned above.
  8. Feedback Knock Correction = FBKC (aka FKC) changes Fine Learning Knock Correction = FLKC changes Rough Correction = IAM changes If FBKC happens often it is stored to FLKC. To calc total timing base timing, (KCA*IAM), FBKC and FLKC are combined. The knock control strategy doc posted previously explains this properly but each of the three correction modes are applied within preset load/rpm ranges. A log file after the intake crack is fixed from normal driving, cruise and harder acceleration (joining the highway) might show us more around the conditions at accel/
  9. The 3.6 has a lower compression ratio (10.5) so can use regular fuel and would prolly ping less but not had any hands on time with the EZ36. If you can get btssm to log another CSV that would be interesting. So similar to your previous logs posted maybe drop the OCV, OSV stuff and add in Feedback Knock correction and Fine Knock correction. The computer only applies knock correction above certain thresholds of load & rpm because some is just noise but these parameters tell us when its detected and learnt.
  10. That timing is down eh, either BtSSM is reading IAM wrong or there's a fair bit of real or perceived knock which explains the lack of drive-ability. I see you've already checked for loose parts that could make a metallic ringing including the cat shields. Any corrosion or cracks on the knock sensors themselves? Does you car have an EGR valve under the intake passenger side ? Much residue/clag around the injectors (would have to remove the black fuel rail protectors ) ? Also the serpentine belt tensioner and idle pulley are a weak point on our engines and can chatter before failing.
  11. If you go with the strainer I don't think it's on partsouq because subaru don't list but uses Denso 952-0086. You got the factory service manual ay? The 2005-2007'ish docs didn't detail replacing the filter tho added notes in 2008,9 but the procedure is the same. It recommends changing heaps of parts and breaking the case open . It can be pried open with screwdrivers and re-used. The only parts I replaced were the pump as mentioned, filter & big seal around the top of the assembly and there's 4 o-rings should be replaced, note the slightly different diameters on partsouq IIRC 3 * 8mm,
  12. I looked at the before & after logs - after the fuel pump changed IAM increased and stayed higher. Strangely the fuel trims didn't change much but guess it would only need a brief lean moment to knock as you say. Chopped the old filter open with a saw - didn't seem too dirty inside but wouldn't really know. I changed the fuel filter once before last year but it didn't make much of a difference to the engine computer so I'm thinking it was the pump that helped here unless I did the filter wrong first time around.
  13. Mine did for ages. Like yourself and Caleb it bugged me because it didn't drive like an 3.0 but also that IAM would change weekly, even on the same fill of fuel (98 RON), weather so on. I had an e-tuner work on it before learning basic open source tuning but neither helped much aside from using heaps of fuel. Then had Tactrix log full time to SD card awhile and loaded it all into a database to analyse the parameters when the worst feedback or rough knock correction happened. Highway gradients in 5th would trigger changes which is lugging but other times it would jump around in
  14. Likely the ECU is still learning. Could've reset back or settled on 0.5 tho unusual. Mine needs 10 minutes gentle driving followed by some wide open throttle to add timing.
  15. Not sure , someone here may be able to help out or post those error messages to the RomRaider forums. Did you see where the IAM value is at with RR logger ?
  16. For the gearbox hard shifting problem especially 2-3 & 3-2 there's a transmission software update available at Subaru dealerships - got to pay I think less than an hundy. We got this on our '07 3.0 5EAT but now no longer notice the shifts.
  17. Just means that your cars ECU ID isn't in RomRaider's default defs, not unusual for the 3.0's. From your first post BtSSM screenshot it's D2UH001T - we can add this to RR; 0. close all open instances of RomRaider on your computer 1. download D2UH001T.xml from http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=12507 or http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6476 2. move the file to you documents folder or wherever you stored the ecu_defs.xml file 3. open RR ECU Editor 4. click the ECU definitions menu to open the manager 5. add D2UH001T.xml to the
  18. yeah true they are real lethargic immediately after reset. you can get LV by pressing F6 or the Tools menu whilst connected to the vehicle
  19. edit - sorry didn't read proply - you reset the battery already. does it drive different & can you share the learning view here ?
  20. @Outback Ash my EZ30 has the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor front of the passenger side cylinder head but yours could be different. There's a section for each engine in the factory service manuals with component diagrams, specs & install instructions. Also covers how radiator fan speed is set by the computer depending on ECT, vehicle speed and a few other params. You can find all of the Suby service manuals over @ https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/. Sounds like a interesting workshop there bro!
  21. If the fans don't run at all BP leggies have a built in test to force them to spin up. this could identify the ECT sensor prob @Technikhaus described. 1) with the key out 2) pull up the passenger side floor carpet from under the plastic trim roughly RHS of the glove-box. 3) rummage around behind the carpet. should find two loose green electrical connectors, 4) there's not too much free cable but join the connectors together 5) Turn the key until the dashboard lights up 6) You should hear the radiator fans spinning up, on and off every 20 seconds (guessing
  22. Any oil or coolant clinging to the engine or radiator ? Might need to remove a plastic cover underneath the engine to look, tho I guess the workshop would/should have reported leaks. Do you know if the radiator & radiator cap are original or replaced ? Does the temp gauge climb or rad fans eventually activate if you watch the car whilst parked for a 1/2 hour with the engine running ? Sorry so many q's
  23. With our cars the thermostat is fully open @ 95C, couple of images from the factory service manual below. Seems the dashboard temp gauge specs are horizontal approx' 88C to 102C. Normal temp is a good question as there's not much log data shared online for the 3.0's but after reading around my guess (and it is just that) perhaps around 90C to 96C for Auckland with the dash gauge one tick below the horizontal. Maybe plus a few C for heat soak at traffic lights. Plenty of people report that the dash gauge can clock-face 9 up to 11 so right up to the 110's with hills, hot weather or towing but
  24. haha yeah it would relearn fuel trims and knock cells after a few drive cycles, you can watch these on BtSSM or RomRaider learning view. a change in airflow caused by a new AVCS solenoid would affect the long term fuel trims and lean spots cause knock (FBKC, FLKC on the logs which contribute to IAM) so I would reset it on my car. is yours auto or MT ? my 5EAT auto doesn't like the engine (ECU) to be reset in RomRaider unless the transmission computer (TCU) is also reset in RR. or just disconnect the battery whilst you do the change. did you say you were in Perth , hows the tempe
  25. maybe pick a part or the wreckers ?
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