Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

Loren

General Member
  • Posts

    1,324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    83

Everything posted by Loren

  1. you should probably try and suck it out.
  2. You can adjust the piston position at the top of the clutch pedal. Move it towards the firewall. You might want to check that the hydraulics are working properly first though. Also make sure not to adjust it too high, because then, when you push the pedal to the floor it can over extend the clutch fork and the master cylinder.
  3. ] Don't worry, the gears will grind the circlips into dust in no time.
  4. There are different R180s too... I only have direct experience with the GC8 Type R/RA diffs that have clutch packs... the circlips are internal with these. Some of the later STis have a viscous rear R180...pretty sure the axles are the same though.
  5. It should be pretty obvious by the depth of the groove. A deep groove on the axle stub will probably mean a circlip is supposed to be present. A shallow groove probably means the circlip is inside the diff. You can also put your finger in the diff and see if you can feel the circlip... should be easy enough.
  6. There are quite a few different rear diffs on these. Some have circlips on the axle stub, and some have them internal to the diff. Some have equal length axle stubs, and some have different lengths. Something only one side has a circlip on the axle.
  7. Does it do it if you just coast to a stop without braking? What about if you use the handbrake to stop?
  8. Fuel enrichment when cold causing issues maybe? Or maybe the temp sensor is bad, so fuel enrichment is not happening. There will be a bunch of things different in the tune when it's cold.
  9. I have the universal washer kit from supercheap in my boot... it's not very big. Wouldn't be any good for the intercooler spray.
  10. Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!
  11. yes sorry, I just mean as a total. I reckon 10 to 20 hours for the short block.
  12. Expect to pay around 10k for a decent rebuild. Maybe 8k if you take short cuts... 12k if you do everything properly. Removing the engine and taking off the heads will save a bit of money... but the costs just add up and up and up.
  13. True, and good for an extra 50 kw too.
  14. replacing the muffler is the easiest way.
  15. There are diagrams around... you just need to search for them. It's very likely that Joker is correct though. Just a spare plug with some power going to it, so useful for some previous owners to hook into for whatever.
  16. It doesn't plugin into the back of one of those panels?
  17. Thanks. How big were the fluctuations, if you remember? I am seeing +/- 0.25 psi at idle. Were they a problem for the tuner, or you just judged them as warranting the dampers before it got to the tuner?
  18. Who has installed one in a car that didn't have one originally (90s Subarus to my knowledge) when upgrading their fuel system?
  19. This mod routes water from the head right back to the water pump, bypassing the radiator.
  20. Front diff has gone bad, but only when warm? Sounds weird to me. Could just be some worn bearings somewhere. You should get it properly diagnosed before trying to find a new box. A replacement box though should only be $300 to $500. Labour will be easily $1000 these days. You'll probably want to change the clutch and replace or machine the flywheel. Several hundred more dollars there. But if it's just a worn CV or wheel bearing, it'll be much cheaper!
  21. Sounds like you should just trade it in for a 2006 GT Manual.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 95 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...