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Gripless

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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Gripless
    Your error code is heater element so high boost on full throttle heat things enough to get a good o2 reading so it idles ok. O2 is usually used for self tuning at cruise or idle. At full throttle it likely goes closer to the fuel maps and so has less issues. Sound like the error code code maybe spot on. The sensors do die and faster with more power. @Niran just had one fail.
  2. Gripless
    Bov can vent where ever since it’s just compressed air wastegates have to be plumbed back as that’s exhaust gas cos well cats and noise laws You can get the later model flange like on the intercooler to a pipe fitting but not much point. Just find one you like the sound of and fit it to the existing pipe. Not sure how much needs to be recirculating to not have issues on the older cars. Newer ones run 100% atmosphere without issue
  3. Gripless
    https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/195831182 or https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1959160872?rsqid=90895c19f4c34520a50cb72d3436296f hose to hks mount adaptor thing there are a bunch or cheap copies that you can use for the mounts. https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1961216313 hks copy on a mount already https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1963231611 sard https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1963224393 old skool gfb or finally https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1960967146 hks copy
  4. Gripless
    What Andy said Does it idle ok after taking it for a full open throttle run? Some nice diagrams and tests for the sensor https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2450569&page=2
  5. Gripless
    From a quick look while I was at a conference today. That nzdra book says you can use it for both provided it is cromolly. And meets both standards. Also has something like sub 9.90 is full cage, 11.00 is half based on a what the chassis is. Msnz cage youll have to do two club level events a year to keep it legal. Youll need to read both books and talk to a couple of shops that do drag and rally as forum world isn’t gospel
  6. Gripless
    If you go forward through the firewall find someone who’s done the Subaru before. Ie go ask the rally guys. The last place I when had templates for all the cuts in the body so it looked great. Rally places may already have something they have planned and ready to bend up fast.
  7. Gripless
    WIf you need a full cage then you need a Motorsport authority card which makes it road legal and no LVVTA cert required. Ive has both in cars and were done by road rally race, Ralliart. I was lucky and got one done by a guy over here from Ozzie Supercars looking for extra work. Cromolly cost more and can’t be repaired if you bend it. also the handling changes with a full cage and the chassis flex vanishes. https://www.nzdra.co.nz/images/downloads/NZDRA-RuleBook-2018.pdf Section 5.63
  8. Gripless
    Do you need a full cage or just the roll bar half cage? if it’s a half cage you can just cert it via LVVTA. Full cage requires licence and money
  9. Gripless
    I thought about it. So dusty, need to get it serviced so someone else cleans it.
  10. Gripless
    They do exist “does my arse look fat in this?” Not only dumb but it’s a trap too.
  11. Gripless
    Canbus is 3.3v or 5v like most logic circuits isn’t it?
  12. Gripless
    If the link doesn’t end in .jpg it won’t auto display the image so make sure you copy the correct link from the site you are hosting from. plus make sure you are pasting the text link not trying to paste the image into the post.
  13. Gripless
    It’s built into many can bus comms chips. It maybe something you have to connect or set via i2c or maybe a raw command. my arduino sheild has the functionality and it was cheap
  14. Gripless
    SocketCAN? Some CAN bus interface cards can have pre filters you can set so they only pass through those events that come from a select address range to the serial/USB port connected to the laptop or Pi.
  15. Gripless
    Could remove the casing and replace with something like this fuel cell foam https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/450-phantom-extension/ https://fuelsafe.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/n/internal_fuel_pump_with_foam_baffeling.jpg Or cut to fit https://www.harmonracingcells.com/store/c37/Cut-to-Fit_Foam_Blocks.html
  16. Gripless
    Well it’s likely the Venturi nozzle is in line with the the outlet so maybe able to be drilled bigger. Does radium have the sizes written down for the pumps used? Someone with way to much time and a spare fuel regulator could fit a factory pump to the cradle out of the car and see how long it took to empty a bucket from the Venturi second tank side inlet. Then repeat with a bigger pump and it emptied the bucket faster, guess very likely. Then Drill the nozzle size bigger a little bit at a time until it was close to the original time. Ball valve idea shouldn’t be to hard with plumbing fittings. Just the space to fit it could be an issue.
  17. Gripless
    If you read the radium stuff you need to modify the Venturi pump nozzle size or the back pressure creates problems. The venturi pump is used to pull the fuel from the side of the tank where the electric pump isn’t. The Venturi pump is just the return line being forced through a small hole to make a jet in parallel to the fuel pickup from the far side of the tank which creates the suction. While I suspected heat initially the Venturi pump system would make most of the fuel returned to the cradle to be from the far side of the tank and therefore likely cooler than expected. It maybe just just drill the nossle in the factory system bigger. And maybe add a one way flap or valve to allow more flow to the pump.
  18. Gripless
    Well there are a few we’ll know places that have blown up many engines and only fix stuff if you sign an agreement to not talk about it ever. A few countries and maybe nz have cases where those agreements that exclude any damage on the dyno or tuning are not legal when challenged in court. also sticking with a bigger shop that can do everything saves a lot of hassle if something goes wrong as they can’t shift blame around.
  19. Gripless
    Mine was 21.8psi with exhaust done on factory tune. ECU cut at 24psi and check light.
  20. Gripless
    @Individualities Race brakes have dba rotors cheap as. i got the dba pads but they are pretty weak and I won't get them again. if you haven't already got a good price for whiteline, let me know the place I get them from might help you out too.
  21. Gripless
    https://www.racetech.co.nz/shop/seats/national/RT4119W-WT-seat cost more but that new design is so much more comfortable. plus if you have to add hundreds for the cert agian the seats are all expensive. Or daily the lower sides are so much better to get in and out of when in car parks and you can't fully open the door. https://www.racetech.co.nz/shop/seats/club/RT4000WX-motorsport-seat
  22. Gripless
    Also the airbag in the seat makes daily use a pain to get cret as you have to get OEM tested rails. ive got recaro ones signed off in the past so it can be done. @Niran I'll try to remember to bring my belts to the dyno day and you can have a try
  23. Gripless
    Can't you just cap the pipe on the turbo side at the valve end and save $$$
  24. Gripless
    Harnesses without a harness bar on a cage isn't a great idea really. The belt angles arent good. But then running a half age does take the rear seats away.
  25. Gripless
    Yeah factory seats are great running harnesses. but only if you have a HANS device. Which you should have anyway and at $600 are so much cheaper than they used to be. otherwise there is nothing to stop the shoulder straps closing around your neck as the stock seat has no middle divider. Harness bolts are the international imperial thread all seatbelt use so replace the rear seat belt bolts. They come with many belts for free. you need to buy a longer bolt to replace the front belt in the bottom of the b pillar. isofix is a tiny metal rod for baby seats. If you want a seat spend the extra on the newer racetech. They are better curved at the back and way better for comfort.

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