Gripless

The GV has the big red wrap around lights. It’s why the red sedan looks better it hides the rear lights more. Same way the GR hatch in white matches it’s clear rear lights. as for the lower droopy bit between the exhausts, the less said the better. maybe swap to the stock non sti lower rear and fit a single muffler. That would help with the rumble and fit the ugly.

GR is better in every way than the previous generation. Standard seats are comfortable, recaro option are little more firm and have better lateral support. They aren’t like the GC era curved ones though. the stock seats, like most unzip the covers at the back and you can add more foam or tighten or loosen the hooks between the frame and the spring net. This is true for most cars. door pillars make the chassis way more rigid. early pre face lift GR have higher and softer suspension. VA doesn’t offer much other than more tech gadgets like lane assist etc. GR key fobs cost way too much and the 2.0 JDM cars need a code from Japan to program. . there are plenty of wrecked part cars, and engine parts are just EJ so that’s not any issue. 2 vs 2.5 biggest difference is if you want rumble from 2.5 or fast turbo spool in the 2.

Order red tail light tint. Clear tail lights with a dark coloured car isn’t the best look. Leaving the indicator answer reverse clear. though may tint indicator orange later.

It’s temp is 600c Cotton is poor transition it’s fibre. true about water even the alloy sealed one still has little holes where the stitching is.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003978752153.html can get a fully sealed in alloy version so it can’t absorb oil. thoughts?

fitted blacked out side/wing mirror LED indicators. managed to unclip the covers and fit without removing the glass. need a little double sided tape or blutack to hold the 3mm wide foam weather seal that isn’t included, but pealed off from OEM ones. the plug pins are about 1/4 the width of factory so need to be aligned carefully. One sat perfectly, one was slightly out after clipping back, but that mirror has been bashed about before so maybe not the indicators fault. fits the 2007-2010 Impreza STI. use the part numbers listed and check against your chassis number in partsouq to see if they fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002266002926.html $15 plus gst

They are not wired through the clock spring like newer cars and have L R and common 3 pin plug so can be used on aftermarket ecu 5v or 12v as switches. if you wanted in a stock ecu car you could just wire a resistor to each and to the SI drive inputs. or maybe they will be water spray for intercooler.

Finally got some steering wheel paddle shifters for my STi. Is it auto.. no is it fitted with manual sequential box… no will they control boost levels and other things… yes Sadly realised all my special sockets aren’t here so had to order new trox for the airbag removal. So fitting it is delayed until they arrive. will order the wider plastic steering column cover once they are fitted. It’s 10mm wider per side. hopefully it’ll confuse the crap out of people looking at the car. Manual shifter with paddles too.

Yeah want to see if I can make it work in the GRB.

Think it’s close to 85261VA011 but there are a lot that look the same the firmware is different so some may not have the boost display.

The multi screen 2015+ one with airbag light, aircon and information display. Not the later 2017+model ones that are one big screen with aircon and info in one.

Try Aliexpress a new Clip for the programmer or breakout board. then any electronic repair shop could place it on transfer it over and you can reprogram it. If you bring a laptop to reprogram it they may just charge you the hour. or order and program a new rom and then have the shop swap it. or they make mileage correction tools for $150. does freeSSM do mileage? Or you could just tin some wire and attach it to the chip or points like the picture while it’s still on the board. Since you are only doing on leg at a time it won’t move. And looks like 4 or the 6 point are via holes. just heat the solder on the wire and then touch it to the board. No need to put soldering iron to the actual component until you need to remove them. does the counter go around at 999999 or get corrupted?

Bad news if you have a Cobb plug in tuner etc. I’d be keeping it offline and not updating anything. https://www.justice.gov/opa/pr/united-states-reaches-agreement-cobb-tuning-products-clean-air-act-violations https://www.epa.gov/enforcement/cobb-tuning-products-llc-clean-air-act-settlement The consent decree contains the following compliance requirements: COBB Tuning is prohibited from manufacturing, selling, offering to sell, or installing any aftermarket defeat devices. COBB Tuning is allowed to continue to manufacture and sell products, including its tuners, that are covered by an Executive Order from the California Air Resources Board demonstrating that the products do not increase emissions above allowable levels. In addition, COBB Tuning is required to: Remove any delete features from its custom tuning software and, to the extent possible, force updates to end-users to remove the delete features; Destroy any defeat devices remaining in its possession; Cease providing technical support for any defeat device products; Deny all warranty claims for any defeat device products; Instruct authorized dealers to no longer provide technical support or honor warranty claims pertaining to any defeat device products; Revise all marketing materials to strike any information relating to replacing, defeating, bypassing, or rendering inoperative any emission control; Not sell or transfer any intellectual property associated with any defeat device products; Revise all marketing materials to strike any information relating to replacing, defeating, bypassing, or rendering inoperative any emission control; Notify authorized dealers and known customers of any defeat device products of the settlement using specified language that informs the authorized dealers and known customers that the products at issue violate the Clean Air Act; Notify COBB Tuning’s officers and employees of the Clean Air Act prohibitions using specified language which explains the Clean Air Act’s defeat device prohibition; Request that COBB Tuning’s employees forfeit any aftermarket defeat devices in their possession and require that its officers forfeit, permanently delete and uninstall, and destroy any aftermarket defeat devices in their possession; Require COBB Tuning to offer to buy back any defeat devices possessed by COBB Tuning’s employees, which COBB Tuning must then destroy; Conduct a Clean Air Act compliance training for COBB Tuning’s officers, employees, contractors, and consultants.

Some EFR parts are over 2 years back order. Like the anti surge cover I got still isn’t in stock and was 18 month back order then.

I never got whine from my DCCD that was worn. I did get a lot of whine from the gearbox bearing wear. But that also has the gear shifter move when you accelerate hard or lift off at higher rpm.

Stock is 55 on 8.5” wide, so 38 offset will stick out and have heavy scrub on steering.

Haven’t discovered the newer BBS 19” from the VA…?

Ok… what type of knocking? is it a single big knock or bouncing knock knock does it sound sharp and harsh or more dampened and springy is it only under braking or can it happen going over small speed bumps at low speed. does it come from the middle or sides of the car? with a passenger in the back seat so they can put their head out the window each side and tell which is louder. Go over a speed bump forwards then backwards. turn the wheels and look at the lower alloy arm rear rubber bush for cracks. Phone camera will show cracks better than you can see. a tire iron or crow bar applying a bit of force under then can show cracks better. its a common failure on the 2007-2013 until them swapped to ball joints. Whiteline did do balljoints for Motorsport use that pretty much like factory ones. bushes are reasonably easy to get eg BNT or others have replacements https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-double-offset-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-lib-9986-kca334.html https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-liberty-outback-9986-w53353.html

Sure it sounds all good. but given it’s pushing oil through the seals and smoking a lot at idle, either it’s not draining or the crankcase pressure is getting high. Water line seems to be the reason the drain is angled and has extra welded joints. Maybe it’s just the AOS lines not being able to drain.

Ok after rechecking everything 3 issues for the turbo and oil draining. 1) turbo drain is 45 degree back and sideways tube. It’s welded 10cm down to make another45 degree bend. The reason is bends so much is the water line to turbo is in the way. 2) The water in out to turbo is on the same side which according to page 49ish of the BW tech guide is a big no no and water can’t circulate 3) AOS drain to crankcase has a droop that could be pooling oil and not free draining back. This was on top of the other head line that previously had cables ties holding them pulled tight enough to kink the line pretty much closed. The AOS may need to be mounted higher and the top fitting change from a 180 to 90 to give it more clearance.

Relay is likely next to fuse box and lots of relays are the same so you can borrow another one for testing.

Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage. WI-12 check relay for tail & illumination fuse 12 two V wires on a1 b2 Wire WG on D12 1v on a digital multimeter could be a faulty relay as it’s an average reading over maybe 0.5 seconds. If a relay is very rapidly connecting and disconnecting the average can be a low voltage. Analog meters or oscilloscope you can se the voltage swing around the other option is something is grounding that out and your multimeter is only seeing some of the voltage. you can test a relay with a 9v battery in many cases outside the car.

The drain pressure will build up until the area under the bearings and the tiny gap the oil goes through is all under pressure from crankcase. Then any vacuum in the intake or low exhaust pressure will have more effect than gravity.

Mine is stock drain sized from the outside, but it’s the crankcase and head vents to the radium AOS that seems to be the cause. I may remove the drain and check the gasket isn’t blocking things at some point. Most likely I’m going to find the AOS breather and plumb it back to the intake for some vacuum.

Radium pretty much comes down to don’t combine PCV and head vents. So all those running single catchcans for all things will have issues. https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/New-Product-Release-Subaru-AOS-and-Oil-Catch-Cans-103 https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/Catch-Cans-101-102