Gripless

On special today the 5 amp version with the led status leads that you leave connected to the car. down to $150 from $180 https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/BATCTK1987G/CTEK-40-358-MXS-50-Battery-Charger-Value-Pack-with

The UPS 12v connectors can do that ther are big and not splash proof though. I was thinking of doing the same as I know I’ll drive off with a charger connected.

I was looking at the panel mount kit one with the lights. I just get all overkill stuff so I never have to buy twice. same reason I have the 1/2” Milwaukee impact driver. Though it is a fun toy on suspension bolts.

Price difference wasn’t too bad and it’ll save being annoyed waiting if it runs right down again. far better than the 2.2A I have now. the battery is a huge sealed one with stupid CCA rating so should work out fine.

Thanks guys. ordered the 10A one., should be here tomorrow. Looking at the trickle charger one but the big ones can do the same. still 12 hour on the s*** one I had was enough to get the car running and take people to get jabbed.

Anyone got a good recommendation for a charger. I have a large seal battery and being low use car I have run it flat again. need something big and fast. don’t have easy access to power while parked but some days I will

Does it even have abs, is there a abs pump connected up in the engine bay? You may want to start by checking the part numbers on the ECU and abs etc to see if they are from the car originally. the. Go checking for unconnected plugs and cut wires.

You could go whitelign or another brand camber bolt for the shocks race brakes or racer products both work with Brembo parts.

Yeah GR rear bar is the common swap in America. for shock the Impreza ones could be too short unless the hub mount are tall.

Pedders may do springs. sway bars if you have the factory bar and mounts then look at the Sti from the 08-14 if the american forums can be trusted. A high vehicle and heavy bar would be pretty s***. the white line bars are very stiff even in the Sti they are overkill on the road. Even at 40kph on a tight 90 turn the car squats at the back enough to feel the balance shift. for shocks maybe the legacy would be closer in that it is higher than Impreza and could be same mounting.

I turned down a real Subaru verified 22b at 70-90k about 10 years ago. Was cheap for back then too.

As long as IRD don’t flag it. Flipping cars is legal and you don’t have to be a dealer initially but buying anything to do up and sell for profit incurs tax.

Best test is to ring insurance companies. if they want to revalue the car every 6 month then it’s going up. GTRs are like that now. Can’t buy a years insurance unless you set the value at a low rate, market value is insane.

There was a boom in 2019 with lots of old collectors retiring and clearing out, and again mid 2020 when overseas travel money was dumped into the car market. likely another one soon as it’s the end of overseas travel season and weather will be nice for holidays.

Why not just seal the ends? either black windscreen silicone or nylon bolts and cut the tops off level once it’s in there.

If it only under vacuum Brake booster lines. PCV or breather lines to heads?

Have receipts for rebuild and dyno sheets for it. still running in car thanks to lockdown.

Flares depends on how much is steel behind it… most are plastic over steel and you don’t get the wheel clearance so have to cut them anyway. Saves loads of paint and panel work though.

I’ve seen full motor without turbo in 5-6k range. rebuild was $4500 the HPC was $800, should be all headers but I didn’t check so may have been billed and not done. May keep coated headers. Turbo was $250 to coat. could do intercooler and ecu so just need a loom.

When I was at Toyota dealer the spec sheet they showed me was the poverty model so I dropped off the list. still the Sti is going to be way faster.

So after lockdown and a pile more $ I’ll have a spare stock engine. done 135k km but rebuilt 25k km. Rings and bearings done. has PMBS sump, Stock turbo and PBMS down pipe are all HPC extreme coated. ECU retuned to turbo since the coating made a big difference. only issue is it has small rocker cover leak but wasn’t worth doing while in the car. was thinking about swapping it to an older car but think I want a kei car as second car again.

I would not count on option 1 existing for long. It’s a moving target. option 2 is an option but it’s a bit of luck as to if it passes. I haven’t looked at in many years. have you called NZTA as a start? then Subaru nz for figures, they may have ones older than 10 years if you are lucky. They may even send you email to use as part of submission. Burden of proof is on you so make sure you have it covered well. do you have the Japanese paperwork for the car? production numbers are worldwide not American ones which are online a lot. you need to supply an article saying it a collectors item not just a review, though review will say it’s a performance model. Depends on how the split the models as well WRX vs STI. You also can’t sell the car for 4 years or use it for work. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__data/assets/pdf_file/0004/49738/Application-for-SIV-permit.pdf option 3 put a cage in it and then frontal impact doesn’t apply as the airbags etc have to be removed

I was going to get the GR Yaris but we got the low spec model with no LSD etc.

Looks like subaru America design team legacy grill to look like a truck SUV wheel arches rear diffuser like the Toyota did to Camry “inspired by nascar” s***. guess that why 3rd gen as they never got the early wrx.

RainX the windows and drove people to get vaccinations. First outing in a month