boon

If you change the ECU to a single turb one, you need a cert. Pretty sure at least. (Technically)

Me likey. If only it was 4wd.

Will I be able to do a boost map on a G4 that will stop this happening? I presume you can have gear + throttle + rpm = only 16psi please or something like that.

I guess so... damn it, I build the thing so it's finally torquey enough that I don't always have to chop it down and now it can't handle the boost it makes when I can't be bothered grabbing 5th... heh. Oh well.

Seeing as it's going for $4000, its probably quite a cheap Falcon, even if you do have to buy a new bonnet but that'll be offset by selling the supercharger after you undo the ratchet straps and take it down from sitting on top of the intake manifold.....

It's a dressed up WRX - the yanks didn't get the STi until 2004, I do believe. Definitely not in the bug-eye series anyway.

Would make sense. Went to a pod filter recently, an oiled one too if I'm not mistaken. Might clean the AFM and see if it helps, otherwise it can wait until I go MAFless with a Link.

BOV is on the coldside... standard BOV location on a V7... Compressor surge it is then... heh, will just chop it down to 5th in the future.

Took my STI up Turoa a couple of times over the weekend. Found that when it was hot (i.e. just driven me and 3 mates up the mountain road) plus at altitude (Turoa carpark is at 1600m) the idle would hunt, sometimes between 1000-1500rpm. Listening to the exhaust and watching the motor I could almost swear it was missing every few seconds. When I came back at the end of the day, it would idle absolutely fine. When it's hot at sea level, it idles fine. Likewise cold + sea level idles completely OK. Any ideas?

Yeah it did sound a bit like that... wierd. Shouldn't the wastegate do something useful to stop that? Do I need to enlarge the hole in the restrictor pill or something? It'll get a Link and good boost control by Christmas anyway...

Damn it! This is my friend's partner's car. C*cksuckers! What a pain in the arse.

Noticed this first over the weekend... never had it happen before, but I only very recently added a new intake pipe and I wonder if the decrease in restriction was the straw that broke the camels back... Relevant stuff: V7 STI VF34 Process West topmount AVO turbo intake Process West CAI + Pod Stock BOV. No change to boost control 3" Siamese into 2.5" midpipe In 6th gear, going up a decent hill, WoT, around 3000rpm I heard a rapid chattering/fluttering which sounded very much like the BOV was opening and shutting very rapidly. Doesn't happen in any other gear, even with WoT pulls through to 6krpm or whatever I can do safely. Is this the mysterious 20psi by-design leak I have heard about from the factory V7 BOV? I don't have a boost gauge so it's entirely possible it is boosting at least 20psi. It would make sense if it was pushing the valve open slightly over and over again, that's more or less what it sounded like. Car was still pulling hard. Any suggestions?

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Some are a restrictor pill, they just look like a bead with a tiny hole in the middle. The direction of these doesn't matter. Some, like the brake booster hose, have a 1-way valve in them that will only allow vaccuum, not boost... otherwise when you got on the boost you could pressurise your brake booster and that would be rather unfortunate. These have to be the right way around.

Newer cars have very complex boost maps... they're based on throttle position, engine load, IAT, RPM, gear selection and probably a million other things. You might get 15psi in 2nd at WOT up to 5000rpm but in 4th at 2/3rds throttle it might only get to 10psi and decide that's enough.

Mine got MORE fuel efficient as I modded it... free-flowing intake and exhaust = damn near nil engine braking, especially in 6th on the highway... can just about roll everywhere once you get it up to speed.

More or less... takes a lot of power or a very slippery surface to spin up all 4...

A stroker kit will cost you epic, epic amounts. 270wkw is easy enough on an un-stroked block. Just get rods and pistons, cams would be nice and maybe a little bit of port work but the heads should flow ~300wkw without too much trouble as-is. Save the money and put it into turbo and fueling, they're the things that will get you to your power goals.

Directional RCAs make me lulz... most of them are complete BS, a few very rare ones have a single-ended shield where, when connected correctly, the shield is only connected at the source end so all RFI/EMI should sink through the source negative rather than the amplifier's...

I think they're talking out their arse on that one... I'm pretty sure he said they were RE-01's and they're just an aggressive street tyre like the RE070, not semi slick like a Toyo R888.

I've heard 240kph thrown around re. the NZ ones. But I doubt a lot of Subeys would get there. The overwhelming question is why do you need it removed? Not a lot of people use GTBs for serious track work...

Cambelt, try Rick on here (his username is Ichi Ban) or I could see if my mechanic mate wants a cashie, he's owned and worked on a fair few Subies in his time.

Even 208kw and 23psi = 'significant' mods on a V7. You don't get those numbers with a pod filter and a muffler, that's full exhaust + intake mods + fueling kinda territory.

The 50x4 ones usually produce ~12-17wrms if I remember right. Open one up, there's not a whole lot of voltage conversion components in there... stepping up voltage requires quite a few bits and pieces in a DC world like a car.

Theoretically... I dunno how much the headunit will like it though, it's a bit of an odd one. They're designed to power 4-8 ohm loads, not the quite high input impedance of an amplifier. So it'll sound sh!tty, but no worse than a line-level converter. TBH I've always wondered if those things were any more than just a RCA-speaker wire converter. Most headunits just use a crappy little chip amp driven by splitting the car's 14.4v (13.8v most of the time in a Subey) power feed to give +/-7vdc which means the maximum output you can get on the speakers is a shade over 5vac(rms)... which tells us, from P=V^2/I, that into a 4 ohm load they can only do about 6.5wrms of clean power per channel... Crazy huh?