boon

Fecker And b) was more or less my point, it's stupid to say that just because it fails a WoF doesn't mean it's immediately illegal and unsafe. On the topic of Triangles, see this test result document: (admittedly commissioned by the tyre that did best in it, but still rather damning): http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/cz/cz/continental/automobil/temata/stop_first/hidden/pdf_tuev_report_cz.pdf

Look at what a Triangle Talon does under very heavy braking... some NZ car magazine did a test of this specifically, and the answer is... not a lot. Something like 3 times the braking distance of an Eagle F1, if memory serves me correctly. The reviewers were staggered by how significant the difference was. Surely with 5mm of tread across the rest of the tyre = negligible difference in water dissipation? Look at RE070, widely rated as a very capable wet/dry tyre, the shoulders of that just about have less tread depth brand new than a MY01 with 30000kms of 2 degrees camber and spirited driving.

Err, the camber wear on my tyres was maybe 1 inch wide. Leaving 200mm of good quality rubber in contact with the road, vs 185mm of shitty rubber. 30% grip, where did you pull that number from?

That comment wasn't directed at you And yeah... everyone has a couple of grumpy weeks on clubsub from time to time. I just get pissy when people post 'absolute facts' on the internet when it's a. merely an opinion and/or b. complete misinformation The illogical approach of this thread in particular just blows my mind personally... People spend many thousands on their car, thousands more on doing it up to go faster, some more thousands on fueling and insuring it and making it legal and then skimp on probably the single most important safety feature and a very highly important performance feature on the entire car.

eK = (1/2m)*v^2) eK(truck) = 5000 * 27.78^2 = 3.86MJ eK(car) = 700 * 52.5^2 = 1.92MJ So the truck only has roughly twice the energy to dissipate... but it's still rather unpleasant whichever way you look at it. eK(.50cal) = 0.375 * 850^2 = 0.27MJ - so you still have like 7 times the impact of a .50 sniper rifle bullet.

We are talking about 1-2mm of rubber on the very shoulder of a steel belted radial tyre. What makes a tyre with 1.5mm of rubber legal where one with 1.4mm isn't, using that logic? The WoF rules around tyres are flawed, just as they are on a lot of things. Saying that if your tyres fail a WoF means they are automatically illegal and dangerous is stupid, especially coming from someone with a track-racing background who ought to know more than your average joe about those black rubber things our car rolls around on.

That whole article made my brain hurt. A lot of road safety stuff does. Them saying a child hit at 180kmh is going to die, no shit, they also said they're almost certain to die if hit at 80kmh. The solution? Don't let your bloody kids play on the motorway. And the cop saying that the 6 percent of people exceeding 110kmh are "very high risk"... there's a difference between a swift driver and a dangerous driver. Plenty of useless Kiwi drivers are dangerous enough at 90kmh while plenty of other drivers will cruise at 115 all day every day and never have a problem.

The new Garrett core factory location turbos make me wonder if I should flick my VF34 to someone on here and up-spec... although I do really like the way it drives. Actually, there's a turbo that's probably better than a VF22 - VF34

If you buy a car with a cert it should come with the bloody paperwork. Would you buy a car that had "fully forged internals bro, honest, 2.2 stroker kit, billet crank even" without seeing some receipts first? If your cert doesn't say WASTEGATE and you cunningly threw the paperwork in the bin, don't complain when Mr. PoPo (even if he is being a prejudiced shitbag) doesn't believe you when you say it's legal. We make ourselves targets, that's just the unfortunate truth, and if you don't take precautions to protect yourself you're just asking for trouble. I mean yeah it sucks that the cops don't always know the law properly and make our lives difficult at times, but some of the responsibility does lie with us. Oh, and the certifier is supposed to know EVERY SINGLE thing that's done to the car because you're supposed to tell him about every single thing that you've done to the car so he can check it's safe/done properly.

Bulls***... I've had tyres with 4mm of tread fail a WoF due to some camber wear, are you telling me that a 225 wide RE001 with 4mm tread + camber wear has less grip than a 185 s***ty chingaling tyre?

What's that thing Ichi Ban says? Something like "It'll be somewhere between the radiator and the muffler" - as in, without looking at the car in person, it's too complicated to diagnose. Especially when the entire thing has been in pieces.

The piece of paper is almost as important as the cert itself. Obviously they can't fit all the stuff on your cert plate so that's why they have the spec sheet. If your paperwork (and the official record) doesn't say LARGER TURBO then you're not certed for a larger turbo. Mine lists each item in categories, including brand and model if applicable. E.g. it says IHI VF34 Turbocharger, Cusco underbody brace, blah blah blah Just because a certifier does a lot of certs doesn't mean they're doing them right or that they're worth a damn cent when Johnny Law comes knocking. If your cert paperwork said "External Wastegate" then you wouldn't have this problem in the first place. If it was enough to just have "EJ20 MOD." on the plate and you could do whatever you wanted then what would be the point in doing an inspection for the cert anyway, they may as well just send you it in the mail. Maybe you should go back to your certifier and get them to update the paperwork, because I'm damn sure that if I got pulled over and they questioned a single thing on the car I could prove it was certed and legal.

Sometimes you buy a performance car with cheap s*** tyres. And sometimes you just have a rough month and need a warrant, cheap tires do the job. Doesn't mean your too poor to own the car and you get to stay legal. Sounds like win to me. Just go fail the WoF, you get a couple of weeks to sort yourself out... then you're not pissing money away on rubbish tyres you're going to replace a month later anyway.

Yeah cert plate just has to say MOD after the motor but on the paperwork (which you should carry a copy of in the glovebox for this exact reason) it should have these things listed in detail. funky - Technically you should. You'll NEVER fail a WOF with a substituted turbo unless it's friggin enormous, I mean it would be a rather odd WOF guy who took a look and was like "WTF THIS MODEL DIDN'T HAVE A VF30! FAIL!" but, at the end of the day if someone wanted to be anal retentive about it (say, Police or an insurance assessor) then you could get pulled up on it as, going by the book, it invalidates your WOF. Just like having a Link or chipped ECU has to be certed... when I get my Link I'm going in to get re-certed and I'm going to sit down with the cert guy and get every single thing that's on the certification schedule noted on the paperwork. It's all well and good until you stack it into a house and you're faced with a $200k bill because your insurer notices that the ECU isn't the original and declines your insurance.

Driving within the limits of a sh!t tyre means you may as well drive a Corolla and save yourself the insurance, petrol and millions of $$$ maintenance of owning a performance car. Heck you could even use some of the money you saved for some decent tyres for the Corolla and actually have some fun driving it. Why buy a performance vehicle and then cripple it with sh!t tyres? It's like buying a top of the line computer then putting 128mb of RAM in it... the lowest common denominator applies.

Is your wastegate on the cert? If not, you're fucked. Wastegate substitution MUST be certified. Also turbo substitution should always be certed, so all those people driving around with VF22's on cars that didn't have them technically don't have a valid WoF nor valid insurance. Crazy huh...

Even halfway decent tyres don't cost that much (maybe a big tank of petrol each) and keep you on the road a helluva lot better than those ching-a-ling wing-de-wong-number tyres.

3.0's tend to be reasonably looked after but as they're not always owned by people who know which bit of the engine does what they can have a patchy service history. If you look at an auto one, make sure there's no hesitation or loss of drive when it shifts.

Turns out they're actually T1 Sports, oh well, same diff... First impressions is that they're SO much quieter and smoother than the RE070's but the needle-sharp precision the Bridgestones gave me on the street is gone. Much, much nicer tyre for everyday driving, I can say that already, but I'll have to wait until the weekend to see how much I've lost when it comes to the fast and wriggly bits.

Having spent some time in a car stereo shop... you do some crazy sh!t sometimes to make them fit nicely. Especially Honda pockets.

4x Toyo T1R's. Good price too, I hope they drive well. Coming off RE070s so it will be interesting.

Wierd, Simon C runs one of them on his V7 and it's over 250kw... have to see how mine goes on the dyno when it gets there eventually but I'm running one of those venturi turbiney Zerosports exhausts too.

There's a soundoff at SSZ this weekend??? Nobody tells me aaaaanything. So out of the loop, haha.

Soundoff huh... what are you running? DBKid and Jodie can have a showdown

Take all the stickers off and it would be staunch.