Individualities

From memory the EJ207 has always had some sort of AVCS. So the base WRX STI tune won't exactly work? Just thinking in terms of drive ability. Cos how I'll probably do mine being based up North is drive to Auckland for a tune. Unless Chequered Flag up here end up getting a dyno.

Mobil is worth going out of your way. In Whangarei for 95 (we only have Gull Force 10), BP are like 15c more expensive over Mobil. Edit: $2.44 at all Mobil's in Whangarei, and $2.53 at all BP's.

Why is this so expensive? Serious case of price gouging going on me thinks Gull... unless I am proven wrong by someone. Edit: also got a noob question. Pink Injectors on a 02 Rev D Subaru Legacy - top or side feed?

That is possible. You did do Iridium plugs, which have a very small electrode. General practice is to not gap them due to the electrode being so small. Difference vs normal copper plugs -

This or a coil is bad. That's what my ex-mechanic mind says. Can get them tested at an auto sparky. Then leading on from that, I'd be looking for codes relating to angle sensors.

Yup. Same here. Not a fan of it on the rear. But have grown to like it. Have to bend the front ones ends a touch because a JDM number plate is narrower than a NZ one. Nothing that can't be done with a vice! IIRC, you buy the Kiwi Slims, then you buy a normal set, and send back 1 normal one, and a Kiwi Slim. That's what the guy at KiwiPlates told me to do a few months back. Also, probably gonna buy a personalised plate (even though my combination is now Personalised). Combination is a secret... till revealed. No. Don't plan to sell it too. But if you're ever up at a Auckland meet, and spot me, do say hi! I'd be happy to give you a blast!

Subtle changes...

Another one?

My life. Mainly cos I know my insurance will hate me when I make a claim, which needs a new front bumper cos S401 front bumpers are $4500. I was being dragged along by Dad! He was a member back in the 80s. Was that E28 the M535i of the Rogers?

Speaking of Road Sprints - spotted @preim at the Northland Car Club's yearly Doctors Hill Road hill climb on Sunday. No surprises who won - the guy who has the old Orange Starlet with a Hayabussa engine in it.

It needs to open fully. Not just partially. Absolutely. Going original Subaru is the only way to go. Not necessarily. They're not that expensive, and it rules out another possibility. About $30 IIRC for a Fenix one. Although if you need 2, it can add up.

Cusco Rear Strut Brace thanks to @sobanoodle Now I just have to finish my painting, then I can see what it's like on the road...

This isn't absolutely necessary with most Subaru's, as they don't have a heater tap. But, as I was a mechanic once upon a time, it was always good practice. Plus Subaru's are known for air pockets. You can bleed all the bigger ones out, but over 1-2 weeks they'll self bleed all the other small ones - just keep an eye on the overflow bottle. But by the sounds of things here - sounds like something bigger is afoot. With the thermostat - test it in a cup of boiling water: it's only two 10mm bolts to get the housing off of the water pump. Plus - the bleed valve needs to be placed at the top. The bleed valve helps bleed out air pockets behind the thermostat.

Make sure you watch ALL of the new Roadkill episodes from this year while the free trial lasts too!

It works. Bit patchy at times, and drops occasionally. But just reconnect

Got my SuperTones painted! Will post photos once my grille surround and wipers are done too.

I love seats like that! Suede centre, and leather outers My S401 has them, and they're great.

Lesson learned - don't buy Repco brand paints. They're crap. Especially the primer. Wouldn't adhere to my grille surround no matter what. But anyway, got around to finally starting on painting my Supertones, Grille surround and metal grilles, and wiper arms. Should get most of it done tomorrow.

I'd think that would only be the 2018+ ones. Since Fuji Heavy Industries is now Subaru Corporation. As Joker said, it'll be on the spec plate. Usually in the engine bay, or door jam. And for newer Nissan's, under the seat.

If you're ok with spending about $300 on a scan tool, you can get a small Launch one from AliExpress. I would highly recommend Launch, as that's what the shop I was working at used 99% of the time for scanning cars. If you want live data etc, I'm guessing you'll need to spend more (or less). But if you just want to read codes, and clear them, and want a good tool for that, Launch. If you're wanting to scan Euro stuff with a Launch tool though, good luck. My experience was like 50% success.

I did too! Didn't get as far as spares, but did the cleaning, even cleaned the ABS rings on the CV joints, which involved pulling the CV shafts out lol. Thanks! Am gonna try the Osram bulbs first. And probably buy those too, cos they're cheap - handy to have.

BA15S. I've bought Osram Premium LED bulbs for all the other stuff, so I could pick up some of their BA15S red ones and see what they do. If not, can just sell em.

Yup. Put an LED in the high stop, and ABS code. And can't read the code without a SubaruSelect scan tool, so I'm just gonna leave it incandescent. If you know a way around it do tell

Only takes 3.5L, which isn't a whole lot. The 6 speed takes around 4L. My local Subaru Specialist does't use the proper Subaru stuff, they use Castrol oils, since it's a lil bit cheaper, and what Subaru recommends. But yes, the oil itself is expensive. IIRC, I spent around $160 on two 2.5L bottles of the Penrite Pro Gear 75-90W. Did my rear diff and trans.

Doesn't sound like too major of a service, bar replacing the trans, diff and brake fluids. Probably a good time for them (the servicer) to replace your cabin air filter too.