Optical

yeah bottom of the header tank, they are both feeds to the hot side of the thermostat

acutally water goes from the heads to the turbo, then to the header tank, so not such an issue

As said you can either blank or loop the coolant feed, it makes no difference as the coolant flows to and from the same place anyway. If you're making a new header tank then just omit that inlet.

well.... your radiator wont fit into the engine bay after the eg33 is installed other than that small issue... do it!

wow, you've been busy trying out all these mods in the past couple of weeks? Dont bother with second hand coilovers unless you can get them checked out first. Inevitably they are farked or very close to it. If you want some competitive suspension but dont have enough for decent coilovers, get your stock struts rebuilt with adjustable damping koni units and use some decent lowering springs. Second best cheap option is to use some v5/6 sti struts and decent lowering springs - they are much better than the v3/4 type.

I see we have a fellow foreign forum lurker.. Think Id seen all of those before lol

ah k must be the switches i'll give them a clean

Hmm, I dont have any rear doors Seems odd that it would be the switches though, both switches on each side of the car stopped working at the same time... Or are the two sides interconnected somehow?

My electric window on the passenger side stopped working, neither drivers side or passenger side switch works i wound the window up manually by connecting power directly to the motor, so that works Any fuses i should check??

like a creaking noise from the footwell? seems to be a common thing with subarus..

he means he usually bats for the other side

Ive still got a load of STI swaybars for you forrester chaps to install

good man! would be very easy to set up. you'd need a second pwm generator, like the jaycar boost controller kit, then use the brake pedal switch to switch the signal to the transistor that drives the diff between the two signals according to the oem config it pretty much opens the diff up under brakes

I'd say so. It's built to mimic the oem auto setting. There are no problems locking up the centre diff when travelling at speed

^agree with above except for the nissan 4 pot thing. 2 pot nissan rear calipers fit, but there are a couple of different nissan 4 pots and some dont fit at all

meh

Might scrape 225 if he's lucky

You can find more schematics on http://dccdpro.com/ but i dont think anything there clarifies further kinda looks like the in cabin power switches the relay for the high current engine bay source.. if you tell me what to look for I can go have a look at my dccd wiring

what is the relay for?

caliper clearance depends on the design of the wheel, not the offset. although a lower offset has more chance of clearing. only certain way to find out is to try them and see

put down 245 at 18psi. Would have been fun to see how much more it could make if it had had forged pistons :-[

yep to all that, you might be better off working out the current actually from the solenoid resistance, the current drawn for a fluctuating voltage can be hard to measure without a scope. I assume it's a 12V peak voltage fed to the solenoid. If the solenoid is 300 ohms (for example), then peak current draw is 40mA at 100% DC

best hook it up without the fuse, see how much current is drawn, then get a fuse rated a little bit higher than normal operation

if it's a capacitor it will measure an open circuit, you'll have to remove from the cct to test if it's a cap. There could be a cap in series with the output to block DC voltages going to the solenoid which makes sense. What do the two sides of mr 50 connect to? One is the diode? my money is still on it being a precision resistor for now.. Also that stripe on the diode means it's either a zener or a schottky. But not a power diode, so you will need to replace it with the correct part, not something generic. Being a zener diode would make sense, in combination with the precision resistor would make a constant current source to prevent the solenoid overheating etc.

what link? grab the pin out diagram and study it http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html