nickch

Probably want to chime in here too. The plan is 24mm front and rear whiteline sway bars. Both front and rears are adjustable, with the hopes that I can soften up the front if there is too much understeer. From whats been said here, it now seems like going for a 22mm front may be the recommended?

I love my RE002s... Fantastic wet grip.. and even better when dry!

bloody wagons.. can fit anything in the back! ;P Biggest one i\'ve built was an ABC design that everyone on nzice was raving about back in the day.. Might have a set of rainbow germaniums for sale sometime this year.. Can\'t bring myself to weigh a zoom zoom car down.. =(.. Factoring in dynamat, box, amps, cabling, components... too much hassle.

I miss my old setup.. :-[ Fb = 33Hz img]http://i.imgur.com/bNE8fRe.jpg[/img]

Essentially all the sub needs to do is handle the power and excur linearly with the signal given. Box design is most important.. Yes, sealed, tight and punchy. But more importantly, output is relatively linear across the sub bass frequencies. For ported, there is a spike at the tuning frequency.. and anything around that frequency, it gets a bit sloppy.. I have heard very controlled bass from a ported box before, as long as the cutoff is set properly to minimise uncontrolled cone movement..

lol.. i live just round the corner from there.. shame i didn\'t see this earlier..

i recognise this car. Do you work somewhere near the bus depot in town? I think I saw you at the lights in front of Sofitel.

Most I could get with factory camber bolts up front was -1.6 The rears are at -2.0 at the moment due to the car being lowered on coilovers..

Cheers guys... Will need to replace pads and rotors before MM14 (2 piece.. will be quite interesting... need to lookup torque figures for the cap bolts). So this has been quite useful. and fluid in there is 2 years old.. so will need to get that sorted too.. can\'t wait for the next..

Awesome.. can\'t wait for the rest, especially bleeding the brake system. Further question regarding brakes. 1) Would you recommend brake pad lubricant? or you\'re okay without it? 2) Is there a legal way (ie, not speeding) to bed in brake pads?

haha i know where this is!! hint: its just slightly north of the bridge edit: here it is on google maps. someone go get the spot! ;P

If you haven\'t ruled it out yet, try checking your axle nuts.

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,39430.0.html

loving the whine with hard rear diff bushes..

have been told fuel pump as well..

Joker: yeah.. yours is pretty bad from the looks.. Yeah.. what to do. Auckland city... Sometimes it gets up to that price... not worth driving to botany to save 10 cpl. Price on Fuelly is full price and doesn\'t include AA fuel save.. Saved 8 bux on a full tank at BP yesterday.. pretty mean..

I\'m doing about 10 km/L mix of town and highway driving.. https://www.fuelly.com/driver/nickch/wrx NB: the outlier seen in august was due to car being in for a tune.

That\'s a proton. Looking at the banner and other cars and surroundings in the picture, taken in Malaysia as well.

Castrol Edge 5W-30 for me. I need to get around to getting my coolant flush too. No garage/driveway space to do it at the mo. =( Another thing that is often overlooked is the cabin air filter. If your A/C is blowing really weakly, go get this filter changed. It made a huge difference on mine, and you don\'t always have to have your settings on High http://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/search?q=cabin+filter&restrict_sr=on

fudge! i used to live 3 houses away from sealy pl. Has always been a decent suburb, apart from the state houses round back! Hope you guys find it.

I was looking all over for this. Needed it to clean out the threads for subframe lock bolts. Only way i found it was in a set.. Wasn\'t keen on spending $200 bux on a tap and die set I will barely use..

[L-R] Rear diff mount bushes, Diff support bushes and rear subframe locking bolts. Ooo, expensive? USD 95 for the whole set.. Plus about 25 bux shipped to NZ Quite keen to see if they make a difference.. Its supposed to reduce/get rid of rear diff clunk when shifting or accelerating hard.. the rear subframe bolts also reduce the \'floatiness\' of the rear end..

[L-R] Rear diff mount bushes, Diff support bushes and rear subframe locking bolts.

;D

Was at the last Taupo MM.. will definitely make it again this time!