Eight_dollar

nah would say it a different one, was just stating that there are a couple of other green ones around, I sold mine at 85,000kms and think its still in wellington, it also have aftermarket tail lights, still have the originals sitting in a box in the parents garage with other random crap. haha

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=214443651920157&l=0a71b3016e my old green v7 wrx, was awesome had cruise control and everything loved it as my first performance car

code 22 is logged when sensor resistance is out of spec - usually from a cracked sensor 22 will not log on OEM ECU with engine knock - ecu will just try to control the knock replcement is only fix skilled hands can swap these out in 15min - but i\'d allow yourself 2hrs (a cold engine is much easir to do this job btw) only I/C need to be removed to access- its very small acess area

+1 billion Sam a 6 spd will just handle more muppets behind the wheel for longer

? why no pressure in the remote canister only use nitrogen to fill (check specs) pressure wise again it will a test day thing You\'ll need a proper shock pressure tester and a regulated nitrogen bottle Start around 50psi and go up from there

Eagle rods are pretty average - hence why they are so cheap $650 They will support 250 fine - after that they kill small end bushes, 280+ they bend - proven twice ! Argo rods have proven to be much stronger - although fatory machining can be suspect at times FWIW - a dry sump system incorporating the factory oil pump isnt that expensive compared to build costs Funky - pushing OEM cams is fine - Engine power is all about how well an engine can breathe at set rpms a decent set of spec\'d cams will out perform OEM

Not 100% sure what they say is the fuel usage, but I had an xr6t ute 06, used approx 14-16l per 100km could get it down to 13 driving nicely on open roads. I found they had shitty brakes aswell. And also seem to go through wheel bearings. But still a super nice and powerful car.

have asked OP to check cam timing in earlier posts ? have the front covers been removed to check this ? ie was it done 100% properly to check ?

you can try it with it unplugged

just re-read your orginal post have you unplugged your o2 sensor - the connectors on these are not water tight

yip

random thought - try disconnecting the alternator - have seen these fail and interfere with the cam sensor signal = all kinds of poor running

its a waste spark system - so failed ignitor / coil would kill a pair of cyl\'s on opposite banks arcing noise makes it sound like leads is your problem are you 100% the cam and pass side inlet cam timing is perfect , a tooth out and the cam/crank phasing goes out the window

Well everyone mentioned them but no ones called it yet, my favourite is the 22B due to the wider track awesome wide body and the fact it\'s the most beautiful handling car I have ever driven.

89RS wont have fuel pump controller Its a ecu controlled relay which is the powerfeed for the pump green replay next to the brown ignition relay ignition relays gave plenty of problems early on. if the relay has a 000 as the last digits of the part # - replace it first before you do anything

just a lack of product knowledge which is scary this fault first started in 04/05 its listed on CS to http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,23227.0.html

all AVCS vehicles The dealerships not removing them, aren\'t looking after their customers

if pump which you say can be wound up on the reg to 60psi the only cause can be the reg and hoses or vac/boost supply to it

honestly tho - they did the right thing - nothing , until the fault is evident on road test to them nothing worse than them fitting parts you never needed and still having the fault Although I was sure all dealers removed filter baskets as the cars came thru for service - maybe not all

The OP fault was fairly clear when you know how the ecu works to fire and run the engine I agree that many here unfortunatly waste $$ buy doing "BLANKET diagnostic" ie start replacing parts and dont stop replacing parts until they have fixed it I use my experience to save people $$ - being logical, systematic and having product knowledge There are many shortcuts tho once you fully understand the Subaru systems

diagnosis over the www is difficult at best, and some explanations of faults can lead to wild goose chase\'s As is the explanations of how to check / test and repair LOG - isnt any electronic diagnosis and educated guess until the problem is solved - going thru a logical repair sequence diagnosis for this fault could have been AFM, wiring, interference issue, ecu or even a blocked exhaust Easiest place to start and most common cause is AFM - not the loom , ecu , or exhaust

umm yes it is - why because if the engine fires and runs for s few sec\'s everytime It confirms that it has spark - it has fuel ! and is dying when the ECU add\'s AFM readings Reason AFM is ignored at crank, is that airflow is too low to get stable readings ! - but hey you already knew that Honestly dude - stop being the know it all, accept that some here actually know potentially the same or maybe more than you ! You dont actually know just who some of the members here are ............. Some have 30+yrs with factory training, Prodrive exp, etc Just accept that everyone (including you) can have an opinion (ps) the thumb over a fuel line test is nothing short of "russian roulette"

There you go Logcall - diagnostics by actually knowing how the system operates !

With engine harness disconnected fuel pump will run until timer shuts off - unsure why, but have this happen many times, try to shut a door glass when engine is out and fuel everywhere ECU doesnt shut down after the usual pre period

you can read codes out on the dash it will dispaly P0XXXX codes for the powertrain (do a web search for info on how to ) if no cel then prob no code !