hijacka

Well what bore size is marked on the block (all B?) first you have to strip the block, check crank journals you can run early crank and there is nothing wrong with strength but the oil ports etc aren't machined out very well they got better through the years. Throw away the rods and invest in some forged h beams with new arp bolts or find some v7 sti rods I've got a set of hf pistons from v5 sti block that are good to reuse you can buy them from me(pm if interested) if you want/going this way. If your building a engine something over 20psi then you might want to go full forged. factory pistons are still a weak point but obviously cheaper option. You real need to measure everything, the bores especially, remember they need de-glazing and machine shop is able to do this best(ie won't tapper the bores.. So thats when you should start thinking about new .50 oversized pistons new rings and bores machined to suit but obviously the safer option is always the most costly but most practical If its just surface rust on the cam lobes clean it up with metal polish if its pitted use some engine oil and wet and dry 320g sandpaper.

Hey Ross is that engine in your Kitchen?

Even though its not racing i'd have more FUN on semi slicks than squealing street tyres even if its a bog standard car. so if it really is a fun day on the track then bring on the semi's! if they are dot rated then drive on them there and back. Its not like the standard 7.5 rims would fit any serious tyre on it anyway

afm is always a good possibility, do you run a pod filter or factory airbox?

True.. I use to get the arse end swinging out in the old gf8 with dccd and cusco rear diff I say cusco rear diff and dccd for anyone in a subaru wanting more rear bias

Only difference is the sti uses a air temp sensor. If i seen a sti for sale that didn't have one i would question it

I think overall you would tell the difference in car. Any suspension thats over 10years old is going to be questionable and doesn't 'make the car'

Depends on year..I wouldn't say they are worlds apart, the later v7 sti spec c got dccd 6 speed box which will make a great diffence in handling.. also the spec c of that year got plated rear diff, not sure about cams i've heard they are better on the later v7 spec c maybe better flowing heads aswell

Oh no lol wack another hub on dude and keep going

I've order set of standard shocks and springs turned up like the next day payed bugger all in shipping very impressed. Had a customer order a 02 sensor and when removing there one it was different part number to the one he had in the v7 sti so he rang them explained that it is the wrong part they sent and how they list that o2 sensor covers that year and model they where refusing at first to comply with return and resend the proper one that they also list on there online site. We eventually got the right one from them but had to pull out the consumers guarantees act to get them to comply as it was either they swap it or we return and get the $280 refund. wasn't happy with there service then.

unless they new the rates would have changed. if it was previously owned be a samoan church courtesy vehicle then the spring would have been compressed some what lol. you can remove the springs and take them to any decent suspension shop to get them rated

Got the b20 volvo boat engine back from the machine shop and the camshaft back from peter at kennelly cams after a performance grind(i highly recommend his services!very easy guy to deal and won't rip you! Not to happy with the ring eng gap on 2 of the bores being .028 would rather .020 like the other 2 take got sleeved but never mind it is only a boat.. here re some picture of parts compared to ej20 1975 volvo b20 engine:

Saved/Towed a dereg run beb v5 gf8 sti home to go back on the road

Like Clint said swapping the td05 for anything vf is wasting money. A vf22 will not run above 20psi safely. You are better off modifying//rebuilding the td05 to where you want it to be as the oem chra are solid units. There are a very good selection of slip on housing and comp wheels and turbine wheels out there!

Thats no good man Brings me back to the FFS Subaru days, hopefully not and it will get sorted sooner rather than later

You do realize that it will boost 7psi after a reset until it learns. And another mistake is you replaced a second afm for a secondhand afm, AFM of that vintage are very prone to damage if you have a pod filter as well. they don't always through codes either same goes for the 02 sensor

How Rude lol. you don't know me so shut your pie hole haha

A+ seizing caliper remove pads and check pistons n caliper can move back

could be how your driving it?..do you feather the clutch pedal to release or slapped the pedal out? What clutch kit did you use and where was it sourced from? who did the job?

As long as you are happy with it thats the main thing as you are obviously the owner/driver Not sure if you picked the right place to promote it though lol. But you obviously know that already

Slapped this 330mm Nardi knock off on heaps better than the old chinese wheel that fell apart lol.. this wheel seems alot more solid than the old one, I find it hard selecting good genuine steering wheels because there just aren't many out there that i like and are decent priced, most of the good ones are only 350mm which i find to big.

Good question! quite often its the inner cv it self the leaks from inside the spline.. can understand how that would be mistaken for a gearbox seal leak.. also the clunking could very well be the cv.. ie water in the cv, no grease left etc. Remove the axles its easy enough

I bet! Looks awesome as well!

Sounds very complex! Can you post a video on how its done?lol

Exactly bro was only using that housing for example change the wheel is must there heaps of flavours! do you know if the kinugawaturbo can be rebuilt easily? i have always favored the oem core for that reason and the fact its tough but not sure about the Kinugawa