funkytown

tbh also depends on the tolerance in your tune, and degree of anger your motor is set up for

not long 2-4 weeks ish

oh yer, 97.5 whoops haha. multitask fail #ninjaEdit ftw

correct. VERY retardo... they claim it doesnt affect it.... but heaps of cars in the states running this have terrible blow by... wonder why.. they adjusted the gudgeon pin height in the piston and didnt make any adjustments to the ring heights, so the bottom one sucks down to far. do a real 2.2.. they are much cooler. 75mm stroke, 97.5mm bore. boom, 2214 or there abouts, and they like to rev

you need to be careful on crank selection, some have a 52mm journal some the smaller.... .??? 49mm journal... get the 52mm crank and you can use normal ej20 rods, get the other and it does stupid shit. also be VERY careful with the stroker, 99% of the time you end up with the oil ring set below the gudgeon pin height at the bottom of the stroke - they EAT litres of oil.. VERY bad build.

They dont make that any more any doesnt support near 300 on a subaru. Gt3071 for 280-300. Gtx2863 or gtx2867 are current garrett options

no, you need v1-4 type injectors, the later ones are a different shape all together. or its a fuel rail swap and thats tricky and $$$

^^

oh haha you\'l have had those tacked into your old intake pipe right and PCV. I welded my pcv shut and connect one set of head breathers and the crank case to the catch can, i have a second set of breathers on the heads which are just tee\'d together (they could be to to catch can as well). nothing to intake, nothing to pcv, but can go to PCV if you wunt... just gana get oilies in your intake. Take the oppo to BIN all the hard lines - they get all up in the way.

boom. exactly.

go look up Ohms law... (josh)

dunno what a starter consumes but a battery will throw out well over 300 cranking amps [quote name='rex-leggy said: nothing to do with resistance . currant carrying capacity over distance once you can spell what you\'re talking about you can enter the argument :-* if you\'re worried about voltage drop over distance.. whats will help limit that i wonder.... considering a thicker wire has lower resistance.

i do know. and I\'ve also tested / tried it / use it like that personally so have some good understanding on the subject. run a thin cable and feel how toasty it wil get boot mounted

you add resistance though the longer the cable hence going larger than factory when you put it in the boot. its so weeny in factory coz it lives so close to the alt and starter.

thats the minimum you\'d want to be running!!!

could be aftermarket or factory pistons from that view anyway. there is no way to tell

hahahaha some much poetic pun lol going on.

yes, put seats down, good to go. goes for GF as well

because the gear ratios have stayed the same in that swap. heres a 6mt 3.636, 2.375, 1.761, 1.346, 1.062, 0.842, 3.545 (reverse) 3.9FD heres the N1AA i found (5mt) 3.166, 1.882, 1.296, 0.972, 0.738, 3.333 (reverse) 4.444FD you can see the top is 3.9 and has quite short GEAR ratios to compensate for long FD. the 5mt has longer gear ratios and a shorter FD

yes 3.9 is hard to find if its r160. you drop the oil from the rear diff and count the number of teeth on the crown wheel crown / pinion count for a 3.9 will be 39 / 10 crown / pinion count for a 4.444 will be 40 / 9

[quote name='funkytown said: b]You need to look at ALL the ratios AND the FD to understand whats gng on with the gearing. my point is that the 6mt has very very short gear ratios but a longer final drive than say a 4.444. if you have a 4.444 which is rather short, you will have VERY LONG gear ratios to make it overall a very LONG gearbox as you describe. (i know your box is long, that im not disputing)

and to kinda prove the point, i run 6mt with 3.9 and its they are the second shortest ratio box ever made by Subaru. You need to look at ALL the ratios AND the FD to understand whats gng on with the gearing.

still unclear tbh, yes your link says 3.9 final on the wrx, but every code i can find for the N1AA box shows 4.444 final... which has no reference on your sheet.

if you change the rear diff you need to change the hubs, brakes, rotors, axles etc. if its only in reverse id still say its the straight cut reverse gear in the box. (that said im in Hamilton now if you wana catch up and i can have a listen)