Koom

Whats autism got to do with being retarded??

The PossumLinks use the factory MAP sensor. They don't use the AFM at all. Just unplug the AFM and see if it runs....

Tony can be contacted on 03 349 9615. Not sure what a twisted setup would cost but PM WRXER as he had this done a few weeks ago.

Can also apparently be done on the BC/BF models but I haven't tried it myself (yet).

Yep, makes it that wee bit harder to break in.

Project Mu are pretty good too to add to that list.

A 20g is huge compared to the VF23. A couple of years ago my flatmate and myself built nearly identical engines and I chose a TD05, he had a VF23. With the same boost (15 psi), my car made 10 hp less but spooled faster so my torque curve was slightly more to the left than his. This was with the same tuner, on the same dyno a few days apart too.

Yeah I agree with that about the sticky lifters. I got sick of them and swapped to GTB heads a couple of years back and wouldn't go near hydraulic lifters ever again. If I had managed to buy a standard RS-RA when I got my car I would have felt bad modifying it. I got a normal RS instead and love changing everything on it just for the hell of it ;D

Do you know if they still have hydraulic lifter's?

The only reason I have an issue with this is because there doesn't seem to be any documented evidence to prove/disprove that painting the front of it doesn't cause any ill effects. There is alot of people who do it and then say that its all good though, but no one has real proof. I've also painted the front face of mine and haven't noticed any effects but I don't even have IAT compensation in my ECU so I wouldn't have a clue what my intake temps are. I agree with what you've said about the front face not effecting it too much as the cooling happens in the core. I have also seen the way that some people paint things (i.e. extra thick layers) and that's why I'm wary of the method of coating that some people choose. Also a good point as once the air has passed through the core its not going to get any cooler when its passing through the engine bay so insulating the cool side of the piping through there would be beneficial.

haha its not really all that bad. I've never actually driven my Subaru up there but used to take my Ford Laser (Ghia model, cause thats how I roll ) up there every weekend. Wack some chains on it and it would get 3 (struggle with 4) people up there easy as. Just couldn't lift off the go pedal for one stretch thats about 5kms long or else we'd be stuck in 1st crawling the rest of the way at less than walking pace.

I've always thought that it would be a difficult test to get conclusive results from. Although if testing at least doesn't show up any major issues, then it could then be assumed that the effect of painting is negligible. But even if it changes the IAT by ~5 degrees (for example) for a given ambient temperature then that would be a bad thing. For the record I painted the front face of mine with some generic acrylic paint but have no idea if it changed anything. Looks heaps better though

Apparently there's another type of heat paint that helps thermal conductivity. I think VHT do it. Haven't seen any but have never really looked but if it does exist it would be a much betterer idea than a normal paint. Thinking out loud here.....wonder if anyone, anywhere has tested the intake temp's before and after painting the intercooler?? http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=1644.0 I want my car to remain a sleeper/stealth. Can I paint or anodize my intercooler so it is not easily visible? Yes! It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss. Yeah thats nice and all. But got any actual real world results and some temperature figures to back that claim up that it will have a negligible performance loss??

This is how you drive in the snow Yeah Hutt is alot steeper than the Ruapehu roads but it also a totally different road surface. The worst thing about the Canterbury fields is people in 4WD's that don't use chains, compacting the snow into a thick layer of ice and making it harder for those in light vehicles (even with chains) to get traction. The steep bits of Hutt are often still just gravel though which helps alot for traction.

Apparently there's another type of heat paint that helps thermal conductivity. I think VHT do it. Haven't seen any but have never really looked but if it does exist it would be a much betterer idea than a normal paint. Thinking out loud here.....wonder if anyone, anywhere has tested the intake temp's before and after painting the intercooler??

I'd be wary of using any paint that was too thick as it could create an insulating layer an negate the benefits of having a larger intercooler.

Did you compete in the Otago rally last year? Nope not me. Car has been in north island all it's racing life last big event it did was 07 Dunlop Targa. Shale: yep it's a bit of fun alright! When I first saw the pic of yours I thought it may have been this one; But noticed the number plates were different etc...

Did you compete in the Otago rally last year?

I've got one. Black, not the tidiest but its fun ;D

Yes.. thats already been pointed out. Would you go ahead and put a thicker front sway bar on your FWD bias Subaru? Depends on your suspension setup and what your rake and corner-weight's are. Also depends alot on how you drive, where you're driving and what the main use of the car is. It "could" be the best addition to someone's car (depending on how it is currently setup).

Easy fix! By two of each wheel and put a pair on each side. That way you get the best of both worlds.

Those wheels are becoming the Motoform Sekta's of the 2000's.

If you're taking just the outer CV off (rather than the inner then the outer). The outer has a snap-ring inside the CV itself. To get the CV off the axle, hold the axle in a vice (wrap a rag around the axle to prevent marking it) with the CV hanging towards the ground. Then hit the CV off with a soft hammer. Try to hit the inner spider of the CV rather than the outer part of it too. I usually just get someone to hold the axle, pull the boot up and out of the way and then give the CV a whack to get it off. (The circlip is only on the inner ones and it is a larger wire clip that stops the balls coming out of their wee grooves in the CV cup)

I wouldn't flare the ends of the cut rails to fit fuel hose over. You run the risk of the flared end cutting the inside of the fuel hose. It is possible to get a tool that leaves a similar swage as the end of the factory fuel lines where the hose normally is fitted. Can be hard to find though but is the only safe option when cutting up the factory steel fuel lines.

They're not picking on them just cause they're Ferodo's. In fact the guys above have said good things about Ferodo's.........the Formula Series and then the DS Race pads though.