rockr

here is one

im sure mine uses the air con circuit to turn it on and off. you also need to hold the throttle at 30 when its turns on via a stepper motor or other means , have not got mine set up but thats what i can remember from reading the manual when i got the chip.

the ecu controls only electrical componants, the blow of valve is not electrical, the only thing that would alter how it sounds would be the amount of boost the link has been set up to run , and i would say it is lower than whatever you had in there before. provided you changed nothing else at the same time. the valve could also be jammed shut. also Make sure you run the extra earths for the ecu as recommened by link in the manual.

so what are they there for on the AICV???

are the water feeds to the idle control valve and then through the throttle body really nessesary in new zealand?? i knoww they are there to stop the said items freezing up in cold conditions but know of alot bigger engines that dont run any such system. warming the intake air after it has just been through the intercooler would not be ideal in my opinion. whats your opinion??

the excess "orange goop" falls of inside the head and ends up in the sump then gets sucked into the pick up gauze of the oil pump blocking it causesing oil starvation of the engine causeing big end bearing failure. amongst other senarios, blocking oil galleries etc., have seen this happen. the gasket is supposed to do the sealing not the "goop". "goop" is for sealing spuntings and downpipes.

im in invers pm me if ya like

checked the fuses?? first point of call

my gt wagon did this , worse when there was more elctrical load on things, was a crook earth onto the battery had to much resistance as it was correded up the sheath of the earth (-) cable onto the battery. new battery clamp and short cable was mint started better to.

ok people , its on this sunday , whos gonna be there??? idf anyone needs entry forms please let me know.

CRIKEY!!! i have not had that many cars in total and i been driving for neearly 18years, youll need to put some flags along ya front fence if ya keep that up LOL!!!

seal imports (sil) have limited directional seals like the diff seals are, they are left and a right sided and are designed to run in one direction mostly (they assume you do most of your driving in forward gears) if you put in normal metal cased double lip seals , they leak , been there done that. just get genuine , cheaper in the long run , and yes get the orings that go under the caps, and dont loose the shims and keep the same shims on the same side.

sedan or wagon??, perhaps it only applies to sedans.

i am sure the previous generation wagons ie single turbo ones, the gt was auto and the rs was factory manual, as most gts were autos, same as sedans gt is factory auto and rs factory manual, please correct me if i am wrong , have never seen a twin turbo "rs wagon" though.

when ya wrap ya tape do a few layers of tape and make sure its tight , like stretch the tape as ya wrap it round the hose, and dont pussy foot round with the grinder get it cut quick so ya dont create to much heat, also leave the tape on til its cold then take it of, also when ya screw the inner into the outer ferrel of ya hose end put a rub of grease on it to help it screw in easy. i make hoses every day of many different types, these would be one of the easiest to do. also make sure ya wash the hoses out before useing them. last thing ya want is a tiny piece of wire braid going into an injector.

pretty sure the radiator support needs cut out and changed to as the lights have a different bolt pattern or you have to redrill for the new lights in the right place to make them fit and look right.

get one made , can get the banjos of the shelf and make sure they use teflon lined braided hose , looks blingy and handles the pressure and heat. also make sure that its got the correct size orifice for the corect oil flow for said turbo. Go to ya local pirtek dealer and ask them to make it useing the pro-flow range or hose and fittings.

did the sti boxs and /or the ra close ratio boxes not have shot peaned gearsets to destress them also??, have always had this done to gearsets that i have rebuilt to give them a bit more life. also polished any sharp edges of the gears to remove machineing marks and dags from factory machining.

UPDATED DETAILS ON 1ST POST

mine had a cracked steel fuel line under the manifold when i got it, car yard replaced the part, same deal fuel smell coming into cabn from being sucked in the heater intake from the engine bay , could smell the fuel in the engine bay when car was cold at start up also.

just check diff ratios

These will be on sunday the 26th of september, 2010. entries and scrutineering from 8am - 10am sharp ***racing starts at 11 am*** at the alexandra airport. WOF and Registration is a must have, or tech inspected. All Competition class cars must pre enter for pre race entries ph (03) 2142136 ###***LIMITED TO 120 RACERS***### racing fees are $40 , $20 entry fee and $20 for day affiliation (day drag racing licence) $10 per person spectator , under 14yrs free. Full 1/4 mile double timed passes.

used an alarm bonnet switch on the pedal for mine, runninng launch control/flatshift in the link , its awsome when its set up correctly. also run it through a switch on the dash , and it can be turned on and off in the link also if needed.

+1 Alot more positive shifting and better feel to

all of the above and a chain block , why strain yaself or risk dropping the thing on ya arm or hand , just not worth it, at least if the back falls of the jack the front is still suspended and wont go far. just make sure the chain block on the front of the trans is exactly in the middle of the car other wise it makes it a bit difficult if its pulling to one side, an engine crane can be better as its more manouverable.