Simon C

Remember, it's not length that counts, it's width ;D

Definately a good idea to raise it. GDB suspension doesn't like being slammed like that, the camber goes all positive.

Isn't that link for parts to the new ugly hatchback STi parts?

DPI's Spec C is up for grabs. Would be well worth a look.

Interesting that I also have a 3" downpipe and exhaust, but my peak boost is 20psi and drops to 14 towards redline. No spiking. Running factory boost control and stock ECU maps on a VF34. No boost cut for me!

The Zerosports one still requires you to insert and turn your key to get power to the electrics. The button just turns the starter motor over.

Wouldn't you be in danger of rolling your tires right off the rims in a hard corner?

Old school hot hatch. Peugeot 205 GTi.

I quite happily live with my Spec C as a daily driver. It's not particularly noisy to be inside. It was not particularly harsh on its stock suspension. I found a set of boot carpet for seventy bucks. The wank factor of having a Spec C sounds, well, wanky, but as a Spec C owner it does give me a good feeling knowing I drive something a bit special. I was worried that the Spec C was going to be too harsh until I took a couple for a drive (I've driven both V7 and V8 Spec C). The only thing that takes getting used to is actually the quick rack steering. But once you're used to it, you won't go back. I agree, it's all a matter of personal taste. You HAVE to drive them back to back before you make any decision. Don't make any decisions based on what people here tell you unless they own one and drive it daily. Yes, DPI and I both own V7 RA Spec Cs so of course you can expect us to be biased, downplaying the bugeye look and extolling the driving virtues of Spec C. But we can both say with complete authority that they're perfectly fine cars to drive everyday, that you barely miss the stuff Subaru have stripped out, and you're missing out on a wonderful experience if you discount them without test driving them just because other people who don't own one say you shouldn't bother.

The way I got around the bugeye issues was: Get a picture of an S202. Make it your desktop for the next few weeks. Realise that it's not ugly, it's just character. The S202 is regarded as one of the best driver's cars in existence, both for driving dynamics and the flat four boxer aural experience. It's not hard or expensive to get a V7 Spec C up to and beyond S202 spec. If you're ever in Wellington, PM me. V7 is a grossly underestimated car purely because people don't like the headlight shape. It's like the model agencies who used to try to tell Cindy Crawford that she needed plastic surgery to get that mole removed....

V7 Spec C is perfectly fine for day to day living. In my mind, these are the major differences you need to prioritise: 1) Exterior styling. V9 > V8 > V7 projector > V7 non-projector. V9 has blob eye upgrade, rear arch flares, better hubs with nice forged BBS wheels. V8 just has blob eye front and rear upgrade. V7 with the black backed projector lamps looks much better than the early V7, especially with the carbon fibre side marker replacements. 2) Interior styling. V9 > V8 > V7. The V8 interior is just as rubbish as the V7, except the steering wheel is smaller. But it still looks awful. Not to say that the V9 is a shining beacon of interior design either, it's just less awful than the other two. 3) Power vs noise. V9/V8 > V7. V9/8 have faster spool and more power due to twin scroll plus uprated cams. But twin scroll kills your boxer rumble. It makes a few hundred RPM difference, but unless you're chasing dyno numbers then a V7 makes plenty anyway, more then enough to keep the butt dyno happy. 4) Handling. Any Spec C > V9 > V7/8. Spec Cs will be lightweight, faster steering rack, more front castor. V9 is heavier and no fast rack, but has the Spec C front suspension geometry and additional yaw sensors. 5) Price. A stock V7 + mods will spank a stock V8 for the same money. Likewise for the price difference between a modded V8 vs stock V9. But the V9 will hold its value better. My opinoin: If you're after a stock car and you have money, buy a V8 Spec C or a V9. If you want bang for buck, buy a V7 Spec C and pile on the mods.

Did it feel good, giving those fresh pink flaps their virgin soiling? ;D

If you get a 2.5" downpipe, likely that it'll have a blanking plate blocking off flow from the exhaust wastegate flapper, which partly defeats the purpose of doing the downpipe as there will be turbulence galore at the turbo exhaust exit. I've got a V7 STi with a Rage 3" downpipe, custom mild steel 3" exhaust with 3 resonators, welded to a Zerosports World Leaguer muffler. Very quiet, great note, flows excellent. It's what I'd consider a perfect sound level, can just barely hear the burble around town in a car that has no sound deadening, but open the taps and it's all on

Built for fat Americans.

Yes. They need 5mm spacers, and then they JUST clear the Brembos. So the same offset as those Advan RGs, which are +45. Not a huge problem to get spacers as I'm due to get a cert for my coilovers anyway.

Pink bits are all good ;D

RA can be "Race Altered" or "Record Attempt". 22B can mean 2.2L Boxer. It's also hexadecimal for 555 who were a major sponsor. GT = Gran Turismo (which means Grand Touring anyway : ) WRX = World Rally eXperiment

Says the man who has sound deadening in his car

I never bother putting the stereo faceplate on, because my Spec C has a very nice audio system called an EJ20 + 3" custom exhaust ;D Seriously, that's why I never listen to the stereo, my engine sounds better....

Spec C springs are a bit stiffer, the rates are matched to the stock STi dampers as the usual STi suspension is overdamped for the springs AFAIK. Not sure if they're much lower, certainly there's still plenty of room on a stock Spec C to stick your whole foot in the wheel arch above the tire so not exactly an aesthetic modification (and slamming WRXs just makes them handle like crap anyway). The USDM ran Spec C springs, and they're always flicking them off cheap so you can probably find some cheapies on the NASIOC forums (just prepared to get murdered by shipping). No issues with 18 inch wheels as long as you keep the overall tire/wheel size the same, and have the correct offset to avoid rub / excessive scrub radius change / wheel bearing stress. You probably want dedicated snow tires for snow, performance tires like T1-R and other max performance street tires won't grip at those temperatures and are not recommended unless you like falling off cliffs in your new car.

Never mind. Found something else the correct offset. Also, lighter, cheaper, better looking, no repair issues.

Rear guards. PCD pattern and different alloys. Completely different centre console, door cards, steering wheel. Most importantly, check the model code on the plate in the engine bay.

V9 beats the V8 hands down: Spec C front control arms for increased wheelbase and front castor = less understeer 5x114 stud pattern on stronger hubs (apparently the 5x100s on the V8 were weak) with newer lighter forged alloys Yaw sensor (like AYC on Evos, but shifts power front-rear rather than rear side-side) Upgraded interior Widened rear track with fender blister add-ons This is all pretty substantial stuff which will cost you megabucks to upgrade a V8 to.

The current wheels are 17 x 7.5 +53, with 225/45/17 tires. Basically, the wheels are going move outwards 15mm. I'd have no issue doing it on the stock struts, as they made the car look like it was on stilts. A bit more of a worry regarding guard rub with a 35mm drop, although the spring rates on the coilovers are higher than standard. Also not sure what it's going to do to my wheel bearing life.

I've got a V7 STI Spec C, Brembo equipped. It's lowered 35mm on coilovers, 6kg/mm front and 4kg/mm rear. They're Prodrive GC-10s, made by Rays and look like CE28Ns that have put on a bit of weight. They're in Auckland, I'm in Wellington. My current wheels are the BBS forged 10 spokes that are stock on the Spec C, 17x7.5", they only just clear the Brembos.