viperguy

is that last one twincharged? *drool*

voice recognition pretty much working, just need to customise commands a bit better and permanently mount microphone using riderunner with rrvoice as a plugin for those interested, in practise though I am using a really cheap microphone so it struggles with road noise etc, I've heard that training windows under normal operating conditions helps a lot, so will give that a go sometime. failing that get an array mic with better noise cancelling.

also had issues with the shutdown controller as i wanted a push to start and push to stop solution so ended up added a latching relay into the hibernate signal line so that before the carputer hibernates it sends a signal to the latching relay which cuts the hibernate signal for the next boot, as the system was still receiving the signal as soon as it booted up and would go straight back to sleep...damned annoying just need to add in the "code" to tell the carputer to unlatch the relay so it can get the hibernate signal for the next hibernate event

update, have installed a modified wing mirror control insert to provide me with up,down,left,right, controls plus a push and hold button left and right for track skipping and up and down currently are assigned to audio player/video player screen selection, push and hold button will be used for voice control triggering once i get that set up

woohoo, more carputers thats what i like to see what are you using for a screen

test afm would seem to have remedied the issue

legen....wait for it....dary problem solved

howdy guys, just wondering if someone wants some beers in exchange for letting me try out their v3/4 orange afm for half an hour? My cars still playing silly buggers and would love to get it sorted, and its looking like the afm is starting to be the culprit cheers

Im in with a grin like always, hopefully with moar powah

plan so far seems to be the v7 sti shortblock + v3/4 sti heads at this stage, should be plenty to keep me happy once i throw a Link at it

anyone had any experience with a guy on trademe selling rebuilt engines, goes by the name "innotech" ? He has some V7 sti block based engines on there at the moment http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-332642954.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-332642955.htm i would love to just be able to drop a longblock in

well I solved the drop in power issue by stupidly running a bearing last night when my throttle got stuck and resulted in the car bouncing off the rev limiter for a few seconds while i was fumbling under the dash for the damn turbo timer kill button : if i was clever i should have just stalled it but who thinks clearly when somethings going wrong like that :'( the car has 171k's on the clock so it was obviously the straw that broke the camels back not badly hurt by the sounds, just nunga's while it cranks over on cold starts while it builds oil pressure, and under light throttle it appears sometimes as a faint rattle so rebuild options, quick question, do you really need to forge the motor to get ~220kwatw since you can get a new shortblock for 1880 +gst from possum bourne motorsport, or a forged version for 3880 + gst obviously well worth the extra 2 grand, but is it really necessary if tuned properly and safely? car is a 1997 gf8

bout 14psi

anyone got an orange sticker afm in wellington i could try

howdy all, rather than have an informative thread in the parts wanted section, I'll bring the discussion here regarding my suspected fuel pump/fuel system related issues: Start Text: it'll just feel like it suddenly lost power, then it will just as quickly come right after a random length of time ~ roughly a minute or so if i had to guess the engine doesnt rev cut like its in limp mode, no codes have shown up, vacuum isnt doing anything out of the ordinary, doesnt shake or anything like its missing a cylinder....my other thought was possibly the turbo starting to seize up, worst i noticed it was stopped at the lights, the idle was dropping down to nothing then jumping back up then back to nothing, I had to give it a little gas to keep the revs up to stop it from stalling, but stopped at another sets of lights it will idle beautifully...it also only seems to show up on long drives at this stage, if i just drive in to work in the morning it will be fine, but a drive out of town seems to start it up popping the bonnet and giving it some revs, it just purrs away, can hear the turbo spinning ok, so really just starting at the back and working forward

After starting from cold this morning on the drive into work, the pre intercooler temps started about 3 degrees warmer than the post int temps ( 9 vs 12 degrees) climbing over the 15 minute drive to work to around 12 post intercooler, and around 20 pre intercooler I must get some logging organised...

howdy all, have just installed thermocouples in the airflow pre and post intercooler....post intercooler at cruise sits a couple of degrees above ambient which is fine, however pre intercooler temp sits consistantly at about 35-40 degrees at cruise ...can anyone confirm such a high temp at cruise, as i would have expected ~ambient temps through the turbo if it wasnt making pressure or is there just that much heating of the air as it passes through the turbo due to the coupling with the exhaust via the turbines?

there was one, xenarc mdt-x7000, but no longer made, might be able to find one on ebay though http://www.xenarc.com/product/MDT-X7000.html my new screen video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsE-ecBv_fg I also got the shutdown controller working, basically its a device which extends pulses, so when i release the button in the dash which activates the carputer power supply, the shutdown controller is triggered and takes over control of the carputer relay for a set time period (during which the carputer will go into hibernate) The shutdown controller then times out and releases the relay thus isolating the carputer power system from the rest of the car. The only issue i had was that the switch i was using (just a factory spotlight button, those push to hold and push to release ones) operated in a way that the falling edge i needed for triggering the shutdown controller happened at the exact same moment that power was cut to the carputer relay. So there was a fraction of a second delay between the carputer relay releasing and the shutdown controller control of the relay activating, during which power was cut to the carputer and it would crash due to lack of power. I got around this by modding the internal contacts of the switch, simply by covering most of the contact pad i was using with duraseal basically, so that when the switch was pushed in in normal operation, the contact i was using was resting on the duraseal instead of making contact like it would normally. Then when you push the switch in to shut the computer off, the pad makes a fresh contact and triggers the shutdown controller BEFORE the switch actually breaks contact.

its a manual, 1994 vintage

not yet, just bought another unit as I knew it would take ages to get the other screen sorted, I'm hella lazy ;D personally with the lack of range of decent single din units, i would just go for the double-din fixed screen option, much less hassle install-wise as its nice and roomy behind the double din screen, and does look a lot flasher, just means your liable to lose the ciggie lighter and ash-tray if youre install is anything like mine and you plan on keeping a normal headunit

i'll be keen whenever it goes ahead, would also love to throw my mates new fiat punto gt on there, it supposedly boosts 18psi stock! crazy for a 1.4L engine

haha i'll take that as a compliment i'll re-do the video as i'm using a different program with a better interface, its worth showing off again now that its a bit more sorted

computer screen MKII is installed and working, pics up this weekend

funny you should ask...its going back because the ribbon cable joining the screen to the chassis has failed somewhere...from the looks of it they havent given it enough slack and so the folding action of the screen has quite quickly broken some wires/connection still shows an image, but the usb for the touchscreen isnt recognised any more by the pc and it makes the windows usb unplug noise when you move the screen, id have a go at fixing it myself but it has an 18 month warranty so will just send it back for a new one and if the replacement has the same issue, then i'll mod it myself to how it should have been done ie, giving the screen cable more slack besides this drama it was a great unit to use, surprisingly practical having a pc in the car...

a few more for the mix