nzkaosnz

haha. i love it how people when having a 'special' edition try their utmost to make it sound more than it is like V-Ltd... subaru- "we won the rally, so we painted a bunch of stock cars blue, and had a few spare vents, printed 2000x 438 out of 555 (all same number) - now you have a "special model" owner- "its the wrc rally car with possum bourne/c mcrae removed from the drivers seat - exactly the same as the proper rally car yo!" (i own a vltd as well)

then how does one set a narrowband up to run w aftermarket ecu then?

find a copy of http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606 and read it.

Manual. And *slightly* more than 30km the commodore was soooo slow up vinegar hill aye jas/craig Manuals are fine - the oil is circulated by the gearset turning, which happens with towing (same as maori overdrive/coasting in neutral) Autos are lubricated by the fluid pumped around with the torque converter, and if engine not running - no lubrication.

weird. i had a feeling that the heating circuit only needed 12v. and as the thing got up to temp, it didnt draw any current?

dont worry, he never lets go of those. (re nuts)

^^^^ and new AFM may make it worse. Normally, people get hold of a new (and matched) ecu, injectors, n afm

(unsubscribes)

and they have 'engine' written on it - incase you forget what u looking at when under car.

how are u logging dude? im getting same/similair issue - would be nice to have a log of the afm voltage.

weird - my gt legacy with a full tank n my fat ass in it weighed 1420 on some calibrated truck scales.... Must have been the RA GT TT

20L should get you... what.... 50km?

wouldnt pull it apart. Replace the copper crush rings on water banjo bolts and the oil feed line Replace the seal on the oil drain Check the oil drain hose thoroughly

look at the subaru parts manuals - they often list the o-rings as 19mmx1.6mm-oring rather than randomly generated part numbers

there was a DCCD guide on here somewhere about using it. Pretty much - Dry tarseal/daily use - Open Dry- agressive use - 1-2 clicks foward Wet - 1-2 clicks foward Wet agressive - 3-4 clicks foward Thrashing car/Gravel/Snow etc etc - all way foward and hang on. This is only a guide, and wont be bad if you use outside of this. Just make sure its open for the long distance cruises, and dont wrap it around a tree when running around in full open. If your really worried, you can get DCCD controllers that can set it automatically. If tyres are not exactly same brand/pressure/worn-ness - the diff can bang and thump, even in a straight line, and makes steering heavy. Turning corners on dry tar with think in lock makes one helluva noise. You know its bad when even the subaru manual mentions that making noises is normal. Also - could those who dont have DCCD, have never had DCCD, and possibly never been in a DCCD car, please refrain from spouting sheit about stuff they dont know about/unrelated crap?

and lack of suitable accom for hampton?

give it to me my standard centre diff is nice n quiet

car wash? and climb into boot

Taupo. Manfield is a ********* ***** *** **** ***** **** long way down. ask jas about gas cost

cheers. May pay to check last date thread was replyed to to ensure not dragging up old stuff

im guessing hitting potholes, and pinching sidewalls.

remember - if u going for a pure twin exhaust - dont go too big... as will just get nasty noisy. (i.e. - on an SVX, they recommend 2" max for two sep exhausts)

on another note - triangles last forever. Set on old mans safari did 80,000km or something stupid like that. Very interesting when moist tho.

oh ffs. i just ate.

have a welded centre diff sitting here - kinda tempting - but the dccd sti type R was scary enough in the wet with diff open. (80% rwd) Possibly on the legacy.