embai

New limited model... just released few days ago for preorder http://www.sti.jp/product/wrxstitstypera/index.html probably more expensive than s206 cheers ;D

well... i highly recommend you get them, definitely worth the money. Their range of products is pretty good in my opinion

yea, i had the cquartz on my car, i would say it's awesome, it sort of makes the car easier to maintain with the layer of protection, i didnt really believe it at first but yea... here's a video showing its durability. i dont have the guts to do what they did in the video, but yea... i havent tried the DLUX but apparently in the UK it is getting positive reviews, i think would be really good on those faded trims and bumpers. let me know if you want any advice on it, i will be more than happy to help, i am sure every car lovers here in the forum wanted to keep their cars looking at its best.

this is what i've used and bought my stuff from, apparently a recommendation from a detailing mate in UK, not the cheapest but i rather pay more for quality stuff. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,29362.0.html <-- that is the review i have done on the wheel cleaner, takes off brake dust with ease. www.maxdetail.co.nz <-- this is where i get my stuff from if you need any advice, feel free to PM me

Hi guys, just wanna share my experience in cleaning wheels especially the gold wheels that is on the subaru (at least mine is gold anyway), i've used a lot of car care products but found this product extremely effective. the product is called IRONX by Carpro apparrently. did a research on the product and it seems like it is used by professional car detailers in the UK and the States. so i decided to give it a shot. the picture says a lot on how the product works. ( i did all those with no agitation with a brush and that is how it came out, i am blown away with the results myself) thought might be worth sharing it here since i have heard lots of people complain about how hard it is to clean the wheels. I highly recommend this product to anyone. here are some pictures i've taken before that product in action after spraying on around 10 seconds after 1 min after 4 min after - decided not to use any brush for agitation, just spray on let the product dwell and hose off. was told that the results will be better if brush is used for agitation. i have used a lot of products over the years but nothing really come close to this to what we have here in nz. i am quite surprised they sell it here. this is where i get the product from the website in nz www.maxdetail.co.nz if someone need it

for oil and filter changes it should take around 4.8 litres the filter location is little difficult if you dun have a hoist, the filter is located at the back of the engine which is on the lower part of the firewall where you have to slide under to see it. I've always used shell helix 10w 40 semi synthetic which seems to be ok, never had any problems. note. this was on a euro r accord which i assume should be the same since they are both h22a. hope this helps

Hi guys, i just recently got myself the 1.3U cable to do some datalogging had been trying to fix the hard start problem i had with my car, it is just hard to start when cold. been to the garage and scan for codes, everything was fine, instead of spending $$ for the dealer telling me everything was fine , i decided to do some datalogging instead. one thing i noticed is i did an ecu reset with the ecuexplorer, the car start right up the first time, no problem at all.. after that it will be the same symptom again. with datalogging, can anyone shed some light on what values on some of the stuff/ sensor should be ? any help will be greatly appreciated

i fitted new battery in mine and still same, went to have ecu scan and everything was fine, assuming sensor all fine spark plug problem? fuel filters? it is only hard to start during cold.... ???

update = have scan for DTC codes and came back everything was fine, no pending codes either... ???

battery are brand new, terminal are definitely secure i get them to check for the codes crank sensor are easy to change, coolant temp sensor <--- do i have to drain the coolant? so i assume the price for both sensor are pretty cheap

how much do dealer normally charge for checking codes and if this is the problem how much you think it will cost to fix thanx

a small update... i just got a new 550cca battery for my v9, still the same but do notice it does crank really strong due to the new battery... another thing i found is each time i disconnect the battery, reconnect them, starting the car up will be instant none of that cranking then start ... ???

sorry for being pain... what brand is it (or brand doesnt matter at all??), i suppose that is for the front?

Hi, just want some opinion thinking on the pads for my brembos i had a quote from winger RRP was more than 700+ for a front set, the rear is also around the same... also heard from the guy from winger saying that there is a replica/fake brembo pads which is way cheaper but they squeal the rotors.... ??? had a look at 41 automotive and it seems like the whole front and rear zerosports brake pads cost less than the genuine front... just anyone had any opinion on these zerosports one... already had a search around but no one seems to use zerosports pads... cheers

i had a mate who owns a B4 TT keeps on telling me that it is faster than single because he had two turbo instead of one so yea... 8)

Not yet, still on the original one that came with the car when new , might be on its way out, seems to start fine during summer. Does your cranking become slower making it hard to fire up with the colder weather out there?

is the problem solved? am curious to find out. similar symptom to my v9

small update... here regarding the problem had been busy and away for the past few months i've have disconnected the battery while i am away and when i am back the car fired up first pop, first crank but now the problem is slowly coming back still figuring out what is the problem there is no check engine light, the car is standard, everything is fine apart from starting it first thing in the morning any ideas??

a small update, while i havent had the time to get around to check the stuff, i do found that for the last two days during cold start, the car can start after a few cranks but still sputter like want to die but will eventually come to life... bad tank of gas??? bad afm? cheers

glow plugs... ;D i tried again this morning, i let it have a longer crank, it did start but stalls immediately, then i tried the second time, it start up straight away, like i said, it only happen when it is cold... pretty weird problem though cars only travelled 35k, wouldnt expect coils to fails that quick????? cheers

agreed with djr03 it depends on what you are going to use your car for i.e daily driving or track days... it is best you test drive all of them to get a feel of which one you like... it is definitely a huge difference coming from a forester (n/a), you might find sti had a harsher ride due to the harder suspension but better handling reliability wise imo... if keeping it stock shouldnt give you any problems unless you neglected the services just like any other car but since it is an sti (no maintenence is definitely going to break down a lot more earlier and easier compare with the average corolla which seems to go forever with neglected maintenence) the standard sti is better equipped (air con, power windows, carpet in the boot, better sound deadnening, HID, speakers at the rear etc..) the spec c is more lightweight and less equipped (stiffer suspension, spec c turbi,thinner glass, no carpet in the boot, no speakers in the rear(i think) only the front, aluminium boot, power windows, air con and HID headlights not standard, brembo is an option too). SPEC C is basically scarifies comfort for performance unless you wont mind the harsher ride and less option. v8 or v9 really depends on you, does have a few differences but they are mostly technical difference, average person wont know any differences apart from the wheels, interior(centre console and steering wheel) and wheels arches when you put v8 and v9 side to side. had driven my brother v4 sti and just recently got my v9 sti.. would really have to say they are really good cars (more towards performance than comfort)

which temp sensor would it be? would bad coolant temp sensor cause this? or something else?

Hi guys, having a weird starting issue with my car lately, during starting, the car will keep on cranking but will not start, if it start it will stalls straight away like theres not enough fuel...always start when cranking second time but will idle very low for few second (misfiring) then suddenly to the normal cold starting rpm 1.5k to 2k rpm..(this will only happen when cold, once it starts up, its fine for the rest of the day, start first pop) car is a nz new v9 sti, cant seems to figure out what is the problem, the car drive fine and boost fine, just first start in the morning... car doesnt throw any code... was thinking of getting a obd scanner? (which i assume would cost an arm and a leg) thanks

hmm... i am getting confused here, do we get the detuned version like aussie did which is only 195kw or we still get the 206kw version, been searching around the net and subaru nz did says that nz does have the 206kw but on the redbook website, it says only 195kw same for the bug eye as well..... ???