Wiretap

All Subaru regs run the same pressure but you should use a matching pair because they don't all flow the same. Also, don't use rising rate regs, they mess up the fuelling. Use a standard linear regulator or even a factory one as I do.

Your valves will need re-seating for 272s. Your idle will also be very lumpy. So in short, requires extra work, provides extra fun.

It's just a glorified WOF these early ones have to pass. And the GTs (both wagon and sedan) tend to pass no worries, the RS tend to have trouble with being rusty.

All the new manuals have this. I figure they wouldn't do it if it was damaging, but in any case, you're not leaving the clutch in that long so it shouldn't matter.

MRP means 'relative to manifold pressure'. Essentially if you're pulling the hose off at idle you're fooling the FPR into seeing that MAP = BAP aka '0psi boost'. So yes, however you like to call it, if you pull the vacuum hose off you are setting it to MRP.

I'm not familiar with that, you may have a sticky master cylinder or other part of the assembly. As a worthwhile note though, you should not leave your foot on the clutch if waiting for extended periods as it wears the thrust bearing in the block and you can (and will) end up with crank slop.

As per the Subaru manuals it should be 44PSI MRP. However 43.5 is probably close enough.

Injectors should be run at their specified fuel pressure. Subaru standard fuel pressure is 44psi MRP (manifold relative pressure) The most major effect of lowering the fuel pressure will be a change in latency. Other effects include a poorer atomisation of the fuel and the potential for greater differential pressure across the injectors. The other thing to be aware of is the fuel pump's optimum flow range. Too low pressure and it will not perform, too high pressure and you're strangling it. Decapped injectors have a notoriously poor dispersion pattern and will probably require quite a bit more warmup enrichment because of this.

i changed it to sit behind the headlight works fine now. i think its more of an issue on v5/6. <snip /> The issue is going to occur with any MAF sensor as the compressor wheel on the turbo induces a spinning motion to the intake air, this results in unequal flow through various areas of the MAF tube meaning it doesn't meter correctly. The greater the speed of the turbo, the more error there will be (except where it reaches the harmonic frequency of the intake, etc, overcomplicated bs ). This will result in your car running richer than it should, and probably less timing too.

The way you have your MAF set up is going to cause some interesting turbo-rpm related MAF sensor error, you may want to put some kind of baffle between it and the turbo.

Subaru offset wheels don't fit on mazdas anyway

Cars that did not come with factory keyless entry do not have an actuator in the driver's door. Don't install one of those sh!tty cheap actuators, grab a genuine subaru one from a car that did have factory keyless. It'll look much better, sound better and be much more reliable.

Well, that makes it easy, that's a rex engine anyway

I hate to say it but the strut itself is probably bent too. Turn it over so you can't see the mount and look at it from a distance. there should be no bend visible in the shaft itself.

Oops. SG5 would be a second generation forester. I meant SF5 *edits post*

Provided we're talking about an SF5 forester with an existing phase-2 engine. They should be the same just take the ECU with you also.

Front springs are the same, Rear springs may be tapered however the taper is different to those used on Ver8-9-10 springs. But yes, front struts will fit unchanged (and the springs should fit anything you throw at them) V7 front struts only work on gen1 legacys, all others are narrower and it results in horrible positive camber.

Fronts: Yes and yes. Rears: Yes, but only facelift ones, and You may need to change the tophats. Bear in mind that BF5s are a lot lighter than BG5s and the arse will sag due to the spring rates.

I'm not aware of any 'neutral safety switch', can you confirm what function this serves? I know of a Neutral Switch, which simply tells the ECU whether or not it is in neutral, shouldn't have any effect on performance as it mainly affects idle control tables. When was the last time the sparkplugs were changed and the MAF sensor checked? Are you in Auckland? I can run a diagnostic on the car for you if you are and confirm if any of these are behaving incorrectly.

As per the GC8 system it will be too short at the tip end. BF5 Wagons have deeper bumpers.

Did see an old ford telstar wagon once with all four spacies on a wet night...

Then don't take the cap off once the car is warm. Having the pressure raises the boiling point of the water, taking the cap of causes it to boil instantly, which is why your radiator cap says 'Ne pas ouvrir a chaud' (aka really badly translated french for 'Never open while hot') In order to check the headgasket that way you must start the car from cold and allow it to warm up to temp with the radiator cap off, you should get the odd bubble as it warms up, and yes the water will overflow a bit (water expands as it heats up). What you are looking for is frothing, you'll have a little bit if you insist on revving it (don't) but a blown headgasket will cause constant frothing. Once the fans come on, you're done. If it hasn't started frothing and foaming by then there is absolutely nothing wrong with your headgasket.

The latter yes, will bolt in but you'd be in for as much of a wiring nightmare as installing an H6 in place of an H4 would be... What are the symptoms?

18x7.5 falls within the spec I said would fit, but falls outside my performance recommendations

I run a 16x7.5 at the moment, TE37 (B4 wheels need new tyres). Anything wider than about 8" and you are going to either hit the inner guard while turning (front), rub on the strut (both ends) or stick outside the guards (WOF fail on all three) In terms of ride comfort and handling I wouldn't personally recommend anything larger than a 17 (45 profile is pretty low already), but I know plenty of people here will contradict me because "20z are phat au"