Flash

I saw a few cars in the US running them in this place & thought about all the pros & cons etc. So I decided to give it a test make a mount I could remove if it did not work. The Temps were good on the street & motor way. At Hampton Downs the problem was when I pulled into the pits, the heat soak temps went through the roof , higher temps then the standard heat ex changer. Its now mounted in the normal aftermarket placement -the good point is when the radiator fan is on this should help cool the both radiator & oil cooler.

The oil cooler is now been moved to the front between the radiator & intercooler. New Engine: Debured Closed deck block JE Pistons Eagle Rods ACL Race Bearings Head Studs & steal Head gaskets 12mm Oil Pump Ported & polished STI heads Killer B sump, Pick up & Baffle plate Tuned Length Headers Light weight fly wheel Factory VF22 running 19psi (For now)

My Peasant racing WRX

I used the Znoelli 550 pads on my last track day at Hamton Downs & they only lasted about 10 laps until I had no pedal or front brakes this was not very fun going into turn one slowing down at over 200 ks. They were very dusty & total over heated on the track. They where fine on the street but I would not recommend them as a track pad, I will be switching to padgit or endless.

-Does any one know where the relay is? Is it in the unit?

Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 V4 WRX Race Car going after a 2 year build & the ABS light is on with codes 52 & 54. 52-Faulty Hydraulic motor & motor relay. 54-Faulty stop light Circuit This car has had a lot of things changed with the dash & wiring out to fit a 8-point roll cage. the brakes have had different, calipers, discs, hubs, brake lines, tail lights, wiring, etc. I have started to go though the process but would like any additional information I can get to speed up the process. Please don't reply unless who have had problems with these fault codes.

Yes you can compare them because this conversation is about going sidways & the more grip you get the faster you will be going sidways. And the conclusion was you will need to run a modifed Subaru sump because they are junk. So please read the complete post Also by the way the spd way cars arnt set up to turn left the driver turns the car left or the brakes do. The cars are off set for wheight & drive out off the corner

Sorry Yea way off the topic but cool vid> A wingless Sprintcar & Midget has the same basic concept as the top level RWD Drifters now do. The more rear grip you can produce the faster you will be going sideways. The main problem a RWD Subaru will have to achieve a fast sidways speed will be Tyre size. You would want to be around the 265 or 285 at least. (Bolt on flares 10inch rims with 25mm spacers would do the trick) Either way the Subaru sump is a bad design & this problem is the main reason why so many have run bearings. Got to go now I have rear doors to chop up!

Check out this cool in car vid of MP at Chili bowl. This will get you thinking about sideways grip & drive. 250 cars race for a whole week & he starts of grid 8 in the A-Main

Yea the 65/35 is the best mod ever & the sump is a no brainer. I brought my center diff of this web site for $400. They are something like $8g new from Subaru. That diff will fit in v3 & v4 What version do you have? looks like a v4

5 years at Ralliart (Highlight Reece Jones winning NZ championship in a group N evo) 5 years at Porsche (winning Targa with Jim Richards & 3rd with Will Sellers aslo Running 1000 hp turbos) 5 years speedway (9 features in a row, NZ champ- ,50,40,30 lapper etc. Too many highlights to list), So I have a little bit of experience I guess. Even though I worked at Ralliart I Love my Subs & have owned a few. I don't go on this site much & try not to comment as can't be bothered with pointless arguments, Some times I just want to help as I have done a lot & wasted a lot of time with pointless mods. Also very busy with kids & trying to build a race car on a peasants budget. I should be done by next summer so i am looking forward to getting out on the track to the GVI Track days & Auckland car club track days. I am also looking forword to meeting some more car peole like my self at the Clubsub days.

You exchange your old sump & they give you a second hand modifed sump for $200 It has an extra baffle welded in around the top edge. It also has a plastic trap door at the rear. It is a very basic mod that works. They fit this sump to every engine they do other then the engines that have the flash winged Group A sump & It looks std from the out side. The $400 sump I wanted them to build was the same as the Group A sump on the inside but with out the winged part as this takes time to do. The Group A sump has alot of Aluminium panels & more trap doors They were also going to weld a Possum badge on it so you could tell what it is. This is still in the pipe line & will be done when they have time. You could make one your self as I was going too but I could only use my mates engine brace tool for a few days & I know that sump works. I also have alot more other jobs to do like removing sound deading that the dry Ice could not get too, If you are keen just ring Possums & speak to Brian or Paul. The $200 sump is off the shelf. If you want the $400 sump tell them you want the $400 Sump Haydn was asking for. If they get enough orders they might get around to making 10 sooner rather then later. Last time i was there they had 11 engines to do & rally cars to fix.

& yes I know Brian & the boys at Possums, They have fitted that $200 baffled sump to alot of rally cars like Emma Gilmor's & alot of production cars. I have been trying for 6 months to get them to make an intermedite sump the price was going to be about $400 & it was going to be like the Group A sump inside but not winged. They have been too busy to make this but if they get more interst he will do a run off 10.

We used to run alot of Porsche's with slicks because they were dry sump we had do problems, the new water cooled 911's & boxters (not Turbo,GT-2 & GT-3) are wet sumped if you bolt on slicks to them & try to do targa or track days they will have oil stavation problems with out a sump mod. We now run Michael Pickens at Western Springs That car is 100% sidways or on 2 wheels all the time. If that car was not dry sumped that engine would run a bearing on the first lap. Any high speed corning sidways or straight line can cause problems in your oil system. It all depends on how good the design is & the Subaru one is junk, The Rally cars also all so run baffled sumps because the subaru sump is junk.

You are both correct because the std sump has a baffle only half way down, as soon as you corner fast half the oil can slosh out in the first second. & yes I can now do donuts & drift like Ken Block (Yea Boy) ;D

More grip means more g so more chances off oil starvation. But also after removing the factory sump it is crap & needs an extra baffle on the top. Good insurance from the big end bearing club & this should be the first mod if you want your engine to live. Plus a fuel pump & modifed fuel pick up

Hey, I just fitted a bafffled sump, I got mine from Possums, they are about $200. They work & are alot cheaper then the Winged Group A sump they make & are also found on the Net. I also was thinking about going RWD but after doing alot of reading on the net on alot off different web sites. My conclusion is any standard WRX rear end does not last long at all & the guys that have no problems (are not breaking parts monthly) have fabricated a larger rear end into there car from a GTR or similler sized diff. There is heaps off info on this on the net just google Rwd subaru WRX. It shows how to do it either way. (The team orange D1 car runs a GTR rear end.) What I did instead because I hated the factory understeer & torque steer was change the center diff. I have every aftermaket suspension swaybar, coil overs, a-arm brace etc etc, I played around with spring rates wheel alignment settings etc with no luck so thought i would go rwd. Instead i fitted in to my non STI V4 WRX an adjustable center diff from a type R STI, I am still running the higher ratio but i just removed the end diff housing & swapped the center diff the same as if you were to mod it to rwd My car now is 65 35 RWD and i have to soften the rear end up to make it not so sideways. It is perfect no understeer & lots of sideways action. The diff is not even connected to any control unit because with no power it runs with 65% to the rear wheels.

After speaking to the boys at Possums I have decided to give it a go. They have had a few cars in their work shop with this mod & they are fine. Also their gold rush car is still running the smaller std pump with twin oil coolers in both front sides with only -8 lines & 80 psi of pressure. So I am going to give it a go! I have now made the Aluminium mount brace & an Aluminium air deflector under the bonnet scoop. The cooler is mounted with the fittings on the top so it won't drain out. I have also made the cooler easy to remove with the lines on or off so I can move it out off the way to get to stuff & also drain the oil out off it.

Has any one fitted an after market oil cooler to the factory intercooler location on top off the engine & had oil pressure problems? I have heard all different opinions & under stand there is two oil pump sizes & heat soak problems etc etc. I would like to here from some one who has actually done this with the standard oil pump & if they have had any oil pressure Problems? This is a race car with modifed sump & remote filter etc & is not used on the road.

I have had both on my WRX and there is a very slight difference. Even though the Vf22 is ball bearing the VF30 spools up sooner and the power is alot more even though the rev range. The Vf22 has a more lag but slightly more top end power. My advise would be dont waste your money, do other mods or buy a larger turbo.

If you are using an airflow meter then every time it leaks air either at idle or when it opens the ECU will pump fuel in as a safe guard. This can cause bore wash. (the fuel washes the oil off the bores) this will cauce bore wear over time. I have seen this alot when I worked on early VR-4's, Evo's, GTO's, Legacy's & WRX's many years ago. If your car is running a map sensor eg Cosworth or has an aftermarket ECU using a map sensor eg most rally cars then it will work fine. The whole reason these cars do that is because the recirculated air will be slighty hotter then the air entering the airfilter. The reason why it will not idle is because the standard air by pass valve is open at idle this allows air to short cut though the air flow meter into the engine with out passing through the throttle body. (just like an idle by pass system) the factory ECU & air flow meter's were not designed for blow up valves . you can mess around with different blow up valves & springs, restrictors & pills etc. But the only reson to change is if you have an after market ECU or to get the, yes I am a rally car with a 1000hp noise!

Later cars loose the chimney because subaru realised that with out it turbo lag decreased. (Because hot air/gases travel faster then cooler air). The later model heat sheild keeps the heat in the exhaust/turbo so exhaust temp & speed will both be high. The sheild will also stop the heat being trasfered to every thing else in the engine bay. The vents are also blocked on a std car as well. You could also remove the rear bonnet seal & like has been said just raise it slightly.

They have 600 + hp at the engine factory no turbo's

Also check out all the other You-Tube vid's there's a black one that nails out a 9.5 & 9.1 in full road set up.