Yes. The shortlist is: turbo oil feed leak, exhaust leak (hopefully fixed tomorrow), hopelessly weak wastegate actuator spring, surge tank bracket fab (and wiring), wideband wiring, ECU wiring + tune. To be fair I could be racing after the first three, which I hope to be soon.
They are even lighter than the ubiquitous 5 spoke 16" STi wheels! I haven't compared them to the TE37s yet, but they currently have tyres on them. Regular V7 STi wheels are really heavy.
They are starting to get hard to find. Just watch Trademe. A couple of sets turned up before I had the readies to buy some, and when I did have the cash it took six months for a set to come up. The similar (albeit 5x114.3) Enkei are becoming more common to see on the market now.
I guess it's worth a try. I may as well just keep trying progressively more aggressive stuff until either the rattle can paint comes off or I hit bare metal and have to start again.
I didn't paint them. Ultimately I will probably get @chulozumo
to coat them, but for now it'd be great if I could just get the green off and put some tyres on.
I'd like to know what products or techniques people have used with success here in NZ. Specifically I'm trying to remove rattle can paint from wheels (ideally) without stripping the factory paint. So far I've tried isopropyl with no success, and turpentine with minimal to no success. I'm trying to avoid blasting and refinishing them at this point.
Valve hole shows the original colour.
It will only make a difference if the bushings are flogged out on your STi links. And you don't really need adjustable ones unless one side or the other is preloading the bar. I'm assuming you are talking about the front. As mentioned, the rear plastic C links break, and/ or their bushings eventually give out. If you are thinking of getting adjustable front ones, then don't get Whiteline for hundreds of dollars, get the ones DacerX has for tens of dollars.