driftrex

depends on exactly what needs replacing once the gearbox is stripped down and inspected but i would say he would be looking at a minimum of $1000 if someone else does the whole job, most likely more though. i think its either first or 2nd gear thats part of the input shaft and that will have to be replaced, if that the case then yeah, bank on well over $1000. i lost my first gear and replaced my complete first and 2nd gears which had to include the shaft and cost just under $1000 in parts alone as i did the labour myself and that was cheaper than retail prices. gearbox parts aren't cheap.

that was all 4.

cost me bout $100 last time, flow test and cleaning. that was diesel and turbo in Hamz.

i had rust on my battery tray from leaked acid, ended up getting the whole tray removed while i had my engine out cause i was worried bout rust been underneath it. but i had my battery mounted in the boot so i didnt need it. as drfvdr said kill the rust asap or it will spread.

theres lots of info on here on oils, have a search around. heres a handy tool to use. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/caltx_nz/

we use all powerbuilt tools at work, havent broken or bent a powerbar before but we have endless trouble with ratchets, both 1/2inch and 3/8(including the stubby ones), but as said above, lifetime warranty so we just give them back to partmaster and they send them off to be rekitted. if you can afford it there are definately better brands out there.

put an upper engine cleaner through my v6 Lancer yesterday, worked mint, can notice a slight difference ;D

6 hours to split a gearbox and reassemble? i've done mine a few times, i think thats quite alot of time for someone who knows what they are doing. but thats just my opinion. definately rebuild, split gearbox yourself, then if you have to, pay someone to pull the gearsets apart and fit the new bearings you supply. should cost you bout $100 for labour to do that, i usually get speed-tech in Hamilton to do that part for me cause i hate doing it.

yea i wouldnt bother putting a trans flush through, but yea drain fill drain fill til it gets a nice fresh colour. you wont get all the old stuff out. personally i wouldnt even worry bout the filter or gasket, unless its leaking or you really want to do it.

i would run about 36psi

yea thats what i thought.

yea my wof place told me to get them, they have passed 3 wofs with them fitted.

yea they are rubber or urethane or something, i have 25mm ones(which is why i dont leave them in), can get thinner ones though.

go get some spacers to put underneath the springs, get wof then take them back out, my rears in the wrx are the same they are captive but you can spin them slightly if you try, and they do get picked up for a wof. i can take mine in and out just by jacking the car up lol. autolign do them. easy fix.

yea i even did a write up somewhere bout this.

yea or try atf as boostin says, never done it myself but i could see how it could work. reason i prefer lots and lots of proma is cause its slightly abrasive stuff which will work away at the sludge stuck in the lifter, thats if its sludge thats the issue. i put about 300mls of the proma concentrate into my mitsi cause it was really bad on startup til the engine was warm, now its quiet as a mouse like a V6 should be haha.

yea run a nice strong engine flush through it and then shitloads of proma, double or even tripple the recommended mix, done that with my old gt legacy and also my current mitsi lancer and it has cured the noisey lifters. once the noise goes away, drive it for a few weeks then change oil again and you shouldnt need proma.

thank you.

ok, i nominate myself for central. if im allowed of course.

i dealt with them recently to get my subframe lock bolts, seemed pretty good guys.

no that wont do it.

if we are going with design 4, then yea put me down for one.

a 50/50 differential doesn't mean it splits the power and sends half one way and the other half the other way. it means the same power is going both ways at the same time. if i was as you say, doubling the power going to my rear diff, i think i'd be shitting them pretty quickly dont you?

but mechanics dont always just charge the retail, they will have a percentage they put ontop(usually 50%), no matter where the seal comes from or what discount they got. but yea as above, if you didnt ask for genuine parts, it was silly to assume they would be used.

take it to a garage and ask them, its hard for anyone here to give you advice when we cant see it and dont know how broken it is. maybe post a good pic?