WRXONP

i ran 12.5 on a ver 2 wrx with a td05 - it really is all about the launch tho - start of the day i was running mid 14s i still ran 40psi tyre pressure too -ive found that u actually want wheel spin because it puts less stress on the drive train normally launching with grip will destroy gearboxs/clutchs and diffs / cvs etc

Na not really - was just under the impression there were no factory straight inlet td05 Subarus only td04

ver 2 wrx has td05 90 degree

what model came stock with straight inlet td05?

If u don't thrash it it doesn't matter what turbos on there Even then I've run a td05 on a bc5 rs before on stock ecu and injectors etc and it was fine That's a Mitsi front housing hence the straight inlet - swap over to a Subaru housing

Realistically if your supplying enough fuel you don't need split rails Think of a rb fuel rail - fuels gotta feed 5 injectors before number 6 gets any fuel - and yet they don't have any problems as long as your supplying enough fuel I know some people do it to try lower the temp - but realistically the lines will still be near enough same place and the same length of not longer For big power the stock rail piping is too small anyhow

Yup 255lph intank Walbro - when pulling plugs number 3 looked no different to the rest

Number 3 is allways the last to receive fuel - if the fuel pump can only just feed all 4 on stock setup - with more air going in the duty cycle goes up and the 1st 3 injectors use most of the fuel pumps capability which leaves number 3 a little dry in comparison - I ran 235 kw without split rails / have seen some up around 250 without split rails either - You can never supply too much fuel - as excess will go back to tank - supplying not enough fuel will allways kill motors (Subaru or anything else)

The stock fuel pump is only designed to flow just enough for the stock setup - once u wind things up - it simply cannot supply enough fuel - injector duty cycle can increase but if there's not enough flow the increased duty cycle won't do anything As pumps get old - worn - tollarences increase / flow diminishes The fuel pump is one of the most important things IMO

6s ecu (assuming this is what u have) has a really good fuel map i would never push any higher boost without a walbro (or similar) - hell i wouldnt actually even want to boost stock pressure without a fuel pump upgrade im not saying its safe - alot of different factors can make AFR swing - especially ECT sensor and maf

nah stock rails stock regulator - walbro intank pump spark plugs never shown any signs of leaning out on number 3 either

lol i ment in general a fuel pump upgrade more than anything else - a mates v6 sti goes pretty lean at 16psi where as another with a walbro stays alot richer

my v3 sti ecu (6s) would cut at 22psi mine ran 20psi daily and loooooved it - walbro is key me reckons

Mainly depends on how far advanced the timing is wether or not its safe to put the pedal down - but realistically u can run 91 and it will be fine if you don't thrash it

i ran a exedy hyper single - un sprung 6 puck with 3200 lb pressure plate box seem to lap it up - never fucked a box in the year or so i had it - it all depends whether your box is allright to start with really

we are borg - seems someone beat u too it haha

would be good ay - a simple check valve in the nipple would allow one man to do it very easily

it will never work the way your doing it - because like i said your just introducing air into the system theres two ways to bleed it - the way i said which pushes fluid down and out the nipple - or theres back bleeding which u need a pump to force fluid back upto the master cylinder

dayumm my silvia in 6th gear is around 3300 at 100 with 4.3 final drive

i dont quite understand how your doing it ? are u pumping the pedal with the bleed nipple closed? then holding it down and letting the fluid out with it down - leaving it fully down untill the nipple is closed again? start with the passenger side untill u get no air coming out because its the longest line the way u word it makes me think u are loosenening the bleeder then pumping?? that will never work as when u push down the fluid will go out the nipple and as the pedal goes up it will suck air in you need to pump the pedal up hard - while u hard the pedal down hard someone needs to crack the bleeder open - the pedal should drop to the floor - keep it on the floor untill the bleeder is retightneed - repeat untill only fluid is coming from the bleeder - not airated fluid

bye bye turbo haha

realistically u dont need a cert for manual conversion quote from LVVTA You can do a gearbox conversion without a LVV Cert if: * the OE gearbox cross-member has not been heated, cut, or welded; and * the OE gearbox cross-member mounting to the OE body or chassis members is unchanged; and * no replacement gearbox cross-member is used; and * the OE drive-shaft(s) is un-modified; and * no substantial modifications have occurred to the floor or gearbox tunnel area, other than provision for gear-shift mechanism.

yea surely as the mainstream exhaust gasses pass accros where the wastegate plumbs it would create a low pressure zone and would help drag the wastegate gasses out?? BUT letting more wastegate gasses out would mean less boost??? i think we need steve to chime in and shed some light on this

My boost curve changed dramatically with it plumbed in - boost came On earlier and it stopped my tapering problem I had on my Subaru - could hold 20psi to redline with it plumbed into bottom of downpipe My thoughts were that pre turbo back pressure would increase with it plumbed???

i ran a 60mm on one of my old cars - little different however since it was a 3 litre running a t70