WRXONP

If it is compressor surge - dont keep doing it - compressor wheels don't like it haha nore do the bearings

nah compressor surge on throttle is nothing to do with bov if it is surging on throttle- in laymans terms - the turbo is giving too much air - so much the engine cant use all of it so it comes back out the intake bout as basic as i can put it it might not be compressor surging - but normally if u stand on the gas in lower gears and its fine - and at low revs in higher gears u get it - it could well be compressor surge bovs that are tightened will cause off throttle compressor surge - not on throttle

run an external - problem solved LOL

i would get compressor surge around a bar in higher gears with low revs on part throttle take a video of it that will explain it surely

boost wont fluctuate with knock tho he said his boost went up and down etc best thing - take a video of it

you recheck o2 readings? should bounce between 0.2 - 0.8 constantly when hot

i asked if the car hesitated / jerked - that would indicate a missfire (spark blowout) boost cut does exactly that - cuts the injectors off if it is stuttering and the car is still pulling and not jerking / hesitating (just boost fluctuating) it seems more directed at compressor surge its fairly easy to get compressor surge out of a VF with high load / low revs

sounds like compressor surge to me - how much boost are u running ?

swapped out my hks ssqv for a turbosmart vee port had ssqv valves for sooo long its weird with a piston sound haha loving it tho

the thing is did the car jerk and loose power as it stuttered - or was the car going as normal and stuttered diference is the 1st one would seem like spark blow out - second would seem like compressor surge

fitted alloy radiator - changed oil and plugs - changed all the vac lines - changed wastegate springs then it boosted too much so changed it back - CBF'd taking plumb back setup off to heat wrap so that can wait

dont have it plumbed to the factory solenoid at all - have the boost source go straight to the lower port of the gate - run either a hard spring or a boost controller to get desired boost

you run an external gate - it should not be hooked upto the factory solenoid anyway - if it is u should plumb it up properly - the standard solenoid isnt setup to run an external wastegate i would love to see one run up on the dyno with a knock link and a air fuel probe banged up its bum

lolol upping the fuel pressure is a very crude way of running a car richer the main reason is that a sti ecu runs more aggressive timing maps - ie it advances the timing more on boost - advanced timing = more power a higher compression motor is more prone to detonation therefore u would normally run less timing on a higher compression motor than a lower compression motor a sti is lower compression than a wrx motor but on a ver 3 i had run a sti ecu (and so have so many others) and had no detonation issues ive seen ver 5-6 wrx stis on dyno before with stock fuel pump - they run pretty lean compared to a ver 3

1 must realise there is a lot of things that can cause detonation ahh

yea 6s wont work -it would take alot of work for it to work j2 is the sti ecu to use theres alot of talk on here about j2s detonating on a wrx motor - but like most myths there are no results i have honestly been waiting so long for someone to put a wrx motor with a j2 on the dyno to see what happens

all ver 5-6 run that style afm so dont be alarmed for the car to run properly with a ver 5 motor it would have (and must have) ver 5 motor - ver 5 loom - ver 5 ecu - ver 5 afm and ver 5 injectors i dont have much experience with the later ver 5-6 stuff but i think some other sensors are different aswell - i know the AICV is different (on the throttle body)

oh i just clicked u have the other thread running your motor is a ver 5 non sti and the ecu is a ver 5 non sti - it will be running the insert type AFM - it doesnt have a coloured sticker as such as thats only on ver 1-4 (coloured labels)

0.8mm gap is fine - even an iridium at a 1.1mm gap will blow out the spark and copper is a better conductor than iridium bit of wack info on this thread here first off are u runing yellow injectors and a green maf on a non sti ecu? or yellows and a orange on a 1s??? so many people (who havent even had experience with a 6s) are like a broken record saying stuff I for the record have run a high compression wrx motor on a 6s - yellow injectors and orange maf without problems - had a walbro pump (which is a MUST for anything modified unless you wanna kill it) and for the kick - it was a daily driver - same motor lasted over 2 years straight - running 20psi boost on a vf23 (previously had vf22) had it on the dyno - solid 11.0 - 11.5 AFR and no detonation what so ever - this IS a unopened WRX motor with 6s - yellows and orange maf afterwards even went to a modified 6s (mines 6s) and still had no detonation issues even with the more aggresive timing maps

ver 5-6 non sti by the looks ecu is from a ver 5 non sti

intalled my 38mm TIAL mvs wastegate yesterday and plumbed it all back in - dam what a long mission that was

if the cars legit - its around 500 i beleive to revin - if its a legit car it shouldnt have troubles going through a re vin you could easily spend more + more time swapping to another body option C (my favorite) turn it into a track car - doesnt need a rego

i recently just took my ebc off and i can really notice the diffference - the mid range is significantly worse without it - as with the ebc it was holding the gate shut alot longer get a decent ebc and be done with it - or else the next best thing is external - can stay shut even longer

they make a 185 17??? picked me up a alloy rad from alex at moonlight and also a tial mvs 38mm

yea vfs are allways noisy - you especially hear em once u turn the car off sounds like a ket winding down