mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
sexy tires!!
neither are semi slick but have semi slick qualities.
im not sure about the re11s but the re070 is a run flat tire. when we took mine off the rim. the tire kept jumping back on the bead coz they were so stiff. those re11s look pretty fine though. id go for them just because they look sexy opps im mean have big wide shoulders
hahaha yes thats how it works for some!!
my car get named depending on the mood im in..
piece of $hit was the last name. and shortly before that name was "GO YOU BITCH"!
when was the cam belt done last??
does it have a flat spot getting back on the gas coming out of a corner?
dodgy Air flow meter could be the prob too
clutch is kind of the same as doing any rwd car except the front axels etc...
im a bridgey man so i say go with them
shales right. love em or hate em
but having had a set of re010 adrenaline and re070s (expensive but mean) ive fallen for them
i bought my current rex with T1Rs and theyre ok but i think they have too smaller shoulder, and subies love to scrub out those shoulders!
bridgestones have good solid shoulders and nice thick sidewalls
pirellis... good grip but flimsey, noisey and not worth the price also only good in a straight line like toyos
dont like slop-lops (dunlops)
could try yokohamas ive heard good things but havent driven on any.
this is only what ive learnt since having a couple of rexes. and knowing that a rex is hard on fronts!
and thats my 20cents! ;D
ive heard that ethanol burns slower and allthough still retaining a "98" octane rating burns at the same rate as lower RON ratings
dont quote me just what has been flying around a convo ive had "lol"
on the "98" matter...... i think "K's to tank" is relative to the cost.
lower octane= more throttle input to make the power
higer octane= less throttle input i think you get the picture
running "98" is definately better to use (go to mobil not BP!!) more efficient, cleaner, + on performance as like somone earlier said the computer can run more timing and the engine can handle the boost better
you dont need the AFM for it to fire up. why does the computer need to measure airflow when the throttle body is shut??
i just started mine without the AFM connected to make sure.
plugs shouldnt foul unless theyre really carboned up from previously running bad. its not getting spark if you can smell fuel.
id say they coils arent getting the signal to spark. (only if it is actually getting fuel) it should have a controller of some kind that could need replacing
if you smell gas then it is probably is ignition. or lack of it.
its not like you can just whip a plug out to check either.
um sometime the starter motor can take all the power left even when jump starting. do you still have all the ignition wires connected at the battery?? starter cable and maybe 3others??