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About Me

Drives :




  1. Does the base of your seat feel loose on one side? Does the height adjustment only work on one side? Well, turns out subaru seat bases aren't as strong as they should be, and if you sit on them the wrong way, you'll bust the spot welds off the frame, leading to one side of the front of the seat squab flapping about. Hopefully it broke in a useful spot, otherwise I hope you enjoy being uncomfortable! 😛 Heres how to fix it, you will need; Socket Set 2x small bolts, washers, and nuts Drill + drill bits a bit bigger then the bolt threads Reaming tool Magnetic Pick-up tool Step one, look at this image, everything circled is important Step Two, Remove the seat There are 4x 14mm bolts holding the seat into the car (Circled in RED) you'll have to move the seat back and forward to get to all of them. Once thats done move the seat base as far forward as it can go, and the backrest to straight up to make it easier to remove the seat from the car disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal to disperse any latent power and you can then tilt the chair forward and disconnect the 2 connectors (circled in GREEN) Then carefully remove the seat from the car and place it on something soft. Step Three, Located your busted welds The two spot welds (location circled in ORANGE) that hold the front of the seat will have busted off on one side (or both if you're REALLY unlucky) Good Weld BAD WELD! Same from above, totally busted Step Four, Fix the weld. The bracket that has busted off, will be part of a assembly that hold the seat in place, and as its busted will be super loose. Every time i've seen it, the metal work holding the seat cushion is left with two nice round holes perfect for putting a bolt through, leaving you with the job of drilling holes in the bracket to match. Do your best to brace the bracket, and drill two new holes. Try to get them as central to the location of the welds as possible, but if you drill larger holes and use washers you can give yourself a bit of leeway Once thats done, use the reaming tool to clear out the left over material from inside the bracket, as if left you'll end up having to squash it when you tighten up the bolts, and as theres no easy access, you may not have enough torque to pull it flat. it'll still work, but you may have to go back and tighten it up again. Use the magnet tool to recover as much metal dust as you can that fell into the seat to save it getting into the mechanisms, and the carpet once you turn it back over. Step Five, Replace the seat You just removed it, do the reverse and you should have a seat in the car bolted down that doesn't flex, and you can now enjoy(?) the feeling of lifted thighs!! Make sure to test the seat through its full range of movement before you bolt it in, as if somethings gone wrong you'll both save having to unbolt it, but also if its loose you may get away with just making a noise rather then snapping something.
  2. Not sure if this has been done before. Certainly not many write ups online if it has... I've spent the last couple weeks researching how to do it and found some really useful information. A lot of it is for the Gen 4 Legacy though. What I start with is this: I have a 2013 BR Legacy. Its a 2.5L NA. Top of the line package with full leather, McIntosh/GPS, 5.1 speakers, eyesight. My first Subaru and first legacy I've owned. Every Legacy on the lot had the standard version stereo with the touch-to-open pouch under it. Me wanting to have something different got this one. Straight away, I realised the stereo and GPS system was technology from the mid 90s. (I know cause I was driving back then) Its good to see Subaru finally realised this and have put a new system into the 2020 Legacy!! After some checking around I found that there was no easy way to replace the head unit. I could get a fascia package that would allow to put in a standard ol' single din head unit like these: I wasn't keen on that. Also it wouldn't change the screens GPS. That's all in Japanese. For the life of me, couldn't work out how to change the language. I did however work out how to change the dashboard language thanks to Aussie, James HEAL on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfhdusquVKY. Awesome mate.! Then I found these on Ali Express. It promises A LOT....Radio, USB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera, OBD, Video (playstation/Go-Pro etc), GPS, Internet access. ALL WITH PLUG AND PLAY. COMES WITH ALL THE CONNECTIONS TO RETAIN FACTORY OPTIONS......mmm, yeah right.. This one is a CUSP brand. But there's several different brands. All of a much the same except different resolution and memory card size etc. Its of course from China. You might have your own ideas on Ali Express/Chinese products so lets leave those out and move on.... The first company I contacted was actually CARBAR, who, when I asked about a RHD version said.."No, we suggest you find something else." My options were pretty limited. I also asked on this forum for ideas. It came down to: 1: Put up with the radio (needing a band expander). The GPS will never work. 2: Find a NZ new version of the McIntosh. $$$$$$$ 3: Try and work something out with this android version. 4: Covert everything over to the standard spec car version with the stereo/no GPS. There are lots of options for an android head unit for these versions cars...Just not the premium version.! Still a fair of $$ to get one out of a wreck, and the GPS will still be crap/nothing. I then contacted CUSP and asked if they have a RHD version. They said, "yes. sure". Being wary of the price ($750 NZ) and my previous experiences of such retail agencies, I offered to send a photo. I sent them a photo of my dash. They reconfirmed, "yes this will fit your car perfectly." So, I took the chance and sent the money, along with a "thanks. And to confirm, I want a black version...Right hand drive". It arrived quick, like 5 days. Black. And LEFT HAND DRIVE. I knew this was too good to be true. I emailed them straight back. She told me that this is the only version they have and they sell them all over the world. They suit any model car. Anyone can see that its not symmetrical. I relayed again that she was wrong. I understand I'm in the minority here in NZ having a RHD car, but these do NOT suit every model. She reconfirmed that I was worried about nothing and just needed to send it to an expert for installation. She had spoken to her experts and again told me that these were interchangeable between left and right hand drive. I'm not sure if their intellect is low or they believe mine is?. Either way, I wasn't going to get far. If I wanted to, I could send it back at my cost. Maybe $100 or so. Then I'm stuck back at stage 1, hating my 90's stereo. Having done several ICE installs before, and a typical kiwi that refuses to believe things can't be done, I decided to just have a go. I started to do some digging on the internet on how to remove the McIntosh and install this android one. Removing the McIntosh was easy enough. Finding info on what the plugs were on the back was near impossible!. How many different versions of the McIntosh do they need?? To remove the fascia. Just stick your fingers, or a small hooked tool into the air vent on the passenger side. Start giving it a little tug and it will pop loose. Then use your hands to continue around the fascia. It will all come free. No screws. *Hint number 1: The plastic in these cars is EXTREMELY soft. It will scratch at the slightest touch. I strongly suggest tucking rags/cloth all over the console where things will touch. There is SO much info out there on the Gen 4. But not so much on the Gen 5. Then, when I did find info on the Gen 5, it was the Non GPS/Premium version. There was just nothing out there. Slowly, over the course of about a week, I found the information I needed. Here's a pic of the back of the McIntosh GPS version. (If I've made a mistake here, please let me know...I'll amend it) So...plug and play right? umm,...nope. - B-CAS...Not needed in NZ. - Hands free mic. Not needed. HU comes with its own. Leave in the dash or strip it out. - Sirius input. Not needed. - GPS signal/antenna. HU comes with a new one. Just leave the lead in the dash. The kit from China came with a harness for a forester and a harness for a legacy. The main harness fits right in. Sweet!. It also came with the fitting plates for the side of the head unit. These attached fine and fit the mounting points well. Good!! First thing I tried to hook up was the aerial. Well that isn't the same. My version has a twin aerial. You can find it by pulling the plastic at the passengers right knee. Again, no screws. It will just pull off. *Hint number 2: Only pull it off as far as the gearstick area. I think from memory that means pulling out 3 lugs? Don't pull beyond that, as it IS screwed on after that. It is more than enough space to work in there for the aerial. The one sent to me has a single aerial input, like below.. So, right away. That's not going to work 100% is it? I did a whole lot of checking and found that my legacy does have a twin aerial, which apparently switches connection based on whether the Head unit is getting a weak signal. Further checks showed that most aftermarket places around NZ were selling legacy attachments with only one aerial. This made me wonder if I simply didn't really need them both? It was worth a go. I was given the harness for free right? Next issue, is that the Chinese one has 3 ridges (seen in the pic). The male version I have on the car only has one groove. I decided to try shaving them off. Done with a Stanley knife. The plastic is soft and came off easy. Next, is that the Chinese one comes with a power antenna lead. I pulled this out as my car doesn't have a power antenna, just the window imprinted ones. Once this was all done, the plug (kinda) clicked on OK. I was able to search on the head unit and it found 2 stations. 2 stations. Not exactly amazing. I was thinking that I really needed the whole twin aerial thing. Secondly, the Chinese plug and play aerial harness is only about 150mm long and doesn't even reach the head unit. The logic behind this baffles me.... So, plan B... PLAN B: Cut off the Chinese adapter at the female socket. Giving me nice new aerial pin to go into the back of the H.U. (head unit). Then cut off the female off my McIntosh. This way, I know it fits right. I have 2 aerials and heaps of length on the cord. Here you can see I've cut both the aerial cords. (cut off the McIntosh unit). Twist the two lots of negative together and twist the two lots of positive (centre core wire) together. Do the same on the Chinese single lead. You now have two leads reducing into one. Slide a length of heat shrink onto one of them. Twist the positives together. Twist the negatives together. Solder each of them a little to get a good solid join. Slide the heat shrink over the join and mould it with your lighter/whatever. You can see on my picture, I used insulation tape. Its OK, but heat shrink is better and wont come off over time. I had to go get some more heat shrink after doing this, cause I realised I would need more later. Being the stock plug. It fit back onto the male end perfectly. It clicks in with the lock (instead of just sliding on with the Chinese one) and it also retains the pin which clicks into the body of the car. I plugged the screen back onto the H.U to see if that was better. It would still only search and find 2 stations!. I could manually stop the search onto a known band and it would find the station now though. Just not on auto search. Positive but why's it doing this?. Having a fiddle with it, brings me to hint number 3: * Look back at the picture of the screen. (3rd pic up). See the red radio icon at the top of the screen.? Under that is a circular icon that looks like a radar. Tap that. Its changes the settings from "Local Stereo" to "DX Stereo" Boom...every station you could want. Mint reception. I don't know if the whole single aerial or twin aerial matters here, cause me changing the settings made it work. What I do know, is the stock one clicks together better. With this issue solved, it was time to move onto the next. I needed to get some volume to this thing. Cause right now, the android HU has RCA's for amp inputs. And there are NO RCA's in the front of this car!. Next pic shows the 4 speaker RCA's and 1 Sub RCA. After 2 hours searching on the internet, I discovered that: A) my McIntosh amp is under the drivers seat and B) sends the signal to the HU via a 20 pin plug. Not a 13 like previous Legacy's. (citation needed) (Remember, there is SO little info on gen 5s being modified yet). If I peer deep down into the dash, (space where the H.U goes) I can spot where the Amp lead goes to: You will find this the same way you found the aerial plug. But on the drivers side this time. Again just pull on the plastic cover where the drivers left knee is. Pulling it off, I found 2 of these leads! WTF right? Which one is for Amp? and what's the second one for? Again, a couple hours searching on the internet....I cant find anyone saying they have 2 of these leads here. The black one definitely ended up leading to the amp under the drivers seat. I couldn't trace the other grey one as it ends up wrapped in the loom and disappears in the passengers glove box area. Then I found a post on ClubSub where Guitar_Guy had decided to have a go at combining his McIntosh amp in his 2004 Subaru with an aftermarket HU. It showed that, on the circuit board inside the HU were the wire colours and speaker indication. (RR, LR, FL, FR, SUB etc). While his comments on which colour was which, were slightly incorrect, I could make out what he'd done. This helped heaps. Cheers for that. I could see that both these 20 pin leads went into my McIntosh HU and I now accepted that I needed to pull the whole McIntosh HU apart to see what this grey 20 pin does, hoping it would have similar descriptions as Guitar-Guy's one showed. I found that BOTH these leads were amplifier feeds. The black one did the 2 rear speakers and the sub. The Grey did the front speakers and the centre dash speaker. So, that confirmed both leads were needed. Why does the grey lead not follow the black one to the amp?. Well, there's a second amp under the passengers seat. No where could I find info that suggested this. I don't know if its standard on gen 5's? Or if its only on the GPS version?. Anyway that's what I was working with. A little searching online revealed there was NO way I was going to get a patch lead that would go from 20 pin to RCA. Each lead is custom designed for the number of wires/pins needed in that particular setup. I honestly spent a fair bit of time here thinking I should just buy a new AMP. Then I realised that the speaker wiring went from both sides of the car. I would have to rip out both amps, find one that fits under the seat, then run new speaker cabling to all the speakers. Do-able if you REALLY want a new amp, but all online were saying these McIntosh ones, that are made by Clarion are actually pretty good. And it was going to be costly setting that up. What if I couldn't find one that would fit under the seat properly? I went with Plan B: Plan B: Cut off the 20 pin leads attached to the HU. Before doing so, I photographed and wrote down which lead/wire does what. Black lead (drivers seat) SUB: green-, blue+ Rear Right: purple-, pink+ Rear Left: red-, yellow+ Grey lead (passengers seat) Centre: brown-, grey+ Front right: green-, orange+ Front left: black-, white+ Both leads have a light blue which is going to "amp switch on" and also both have a wire going to "ground" The outer sheathing on both the leads is going to an earth point as well. So, here's where you have some options. You HAVE to do some soldering/connecting no matter what. Option 1: If you're like me and have a bunch of RCA leads lying around. Find 5 and cut the ends off giving yourself about 100mm of cord. You can strip the sheathing and solder positive to positive and negative to negative. The wiring is tiny. Requires a good eye and a fine point soldering iron. Option 2: Buy a set of 5 new RCA plugs. The solder on ones are best for these tiny wires. The "push on" RCA plugs are for larger gauge. I went with the latter and bought some new RCA plugs. Only $5 each at Jaycar. If you want to get some online, you can get them as cheap as 50c each, if you're prepared to wait for them to arrive. So, with your 20 pin leads, gently strip the rubber outing coating, you'll find a bunch of protective wire sheathing. I stripped each one back about 100mm. I started with the Grey 20 pin lead. You will now find 3 sets of wires inside. GENTLY strip back the plastic coating of one and you'll find the wires you want. The first one I happened to strip back was the white and black wires. I knew this was a left speaker so used a white RCA plug. Cut a piece of heat shrink about 60mm long. (This gives you 40mm of wire to play with at the end) Then put the RCA cover over the heat shrink. Then GENTLY strip the coloured sheathing to expose the wire core. Take off about 20mm. Hit number 3: * You MUST be careful stripping them. They are VERY small wires and will break off super easy. Solder the positive wire. In this case the white to the tip of the RCA. This is the male tip. Solder the negative, in this case black wire, through the little hole on the outer part of the RCA plug. It goes without saying that the wiring/soldering cant touch each other. I'm not going to call this an "easy job". It requires a bit of steadiness and some soldering practice will do you good. Having said that, I'm no expert, and I can do it...so yeah.. Once soldered, push the heat shrink as far to the solder/RCA end as it will go. You want it far enough that when you press the little claws down, it will be across the heat shrink, not across the wires themselves. As I said, they are delicate. Heat that first 20mm or so of the heat shrink. Then clamp the claws down. Then screw the RCA plug up together. Then heat up the rest of the heat shrink (other 40mm of it). You might find it easier to use a vice (gently) or a proper soldering holder. The RCA metal will heat up REAL QUICK. As you can see, my soldering was real average on this one, but you get the idea. And my soldering got better as I went. Continue this process until you've done all the RCA's needed. (5). Note: if you want the centre speaker to work, wire it in to one of the front speaker ones. So you'll have 4 wires going into one of the RCAs. two positives and tow negatives. You just cant get it to work independently. The HU only allows for 4.1, not 5.1 audio. I didn't bother and it just sits there un-used now. I then took the two "amp switch on" wires and soldered them together. These two wires then solder to the Chinese loom "amp switch on". Remember all that silver sheathing we first came across?. I gave it a cut, twisted it up and stuck it into a lego brick each. If you have some straight crimping connectors, go for it. I then got a length of left over wire out of my garage. Connected that to a hoop connector. The other end of it, stuck into the lego brick too. This is sending that sheathing wire to an earth. Attach it wherever you can get a reasonable earth. I attached it to the side of the HU with the screw of the install bracket. You'll end up with something like this: Each of those RCAs I bought will now connect to the Chinese ones of the HU. Remember, Black amp lead was rear and sub. Grey lead was front. I made white left and red right. Done. WE HAVE SOUND..MAGIC!! Keep in mind, this all amplifier stuff took me about 3 days. 2 days researching and 1 day soldering/installing. Hint number 4: * After all this, I discovered my interior lights weren't going? weird...did I trigger something? Or was it cause I left the doors open for hours? I don't know.. The interior lights didn't go. The puddle lights in the doors didn't go, and the keyless entry/hand sensor on the door didn't go. If this happens to you. Its the fuse. It is by the drivers knee. A little plastic cover pulls open revealing the fuses. Its marked "backup". Is number 14 fuse and is a micro 10amp. When replacing it, make sure the doors are closed, or get someone to push the door button in (rubber button that the door hits and turns off the interior lights). If you don't, the circuit is still trying to be active while you put the fuse in and will probably keep blowing. The circuit needs to be off while you replace it. Moving on..install the OBD harness into the new HU. The other end goes onto the cars OBD plug. You will find it just above the accelerator pedal. You need to remove a couple of the plastic covers up under the footwell and run the wiring up under the dash to the plug. After that, its all good. Plug and play. Next set-up....USB leads. The Chinese H.U. comes with 2 USB leads. Female leads like this. Now, the leads are quite long. If you felt so inclined, you could have them stick out the dash somewhere, or the footwell and just plug stuff in as you want. That works. I plugged my USB stick (has all my music on it) into the lead and the H.U picks it up fine. This however, will NOT make the stock USB point in the centre console go. The McIntosh uses an old school CD changer style plug like this: (told you it was 90's tech right?) So, an hour of searching online, I find that this plug is called IP-BUS lead. Finding a female socket for this is REAL hard. When you do find a female end, its only an extension lead and has the male version on the other end. No way IP-BUS is going to match up to a USB lead!. Option 2: What's at the other end of this lead? Pulling apart the centre console leads me to this one: Another hour searching around online, I discover this plug is called a AI-NET. This AI-NET plugs directly into the back of the USB input in the console. So, lets wrap our head around this...……….. Subaru designs a USB input, which has an AI-NET coming out the back of it. The AI-NET goes to an IP-BUS plug, which plugs into the H.U. WTF Subaru!... This is making the whole "stick the USB out the underside of the footwell" thing REALLY appealing about now isn't it? The only thing for it, is to replace the AI-NET--IP-BUS lead with something actually available this century. Online, I can find heaps of AI-NET stuff as its used by Alpine. The best is probably this one from Ali Express. (stuff in NZ is real expensive for this kind of thing) AI-NET to a male 3.5mm jack. This will in turn connect to a 3.5mm female to USB male. SWEET!!. I haven't ordered these just yet. But that will work a treat. AND retain the stock USB port for the car, which I like. As you noticed, there is a second USB socket on the CUSP H.U. This would be ideal for the 3.5mm jack (next to the USB in the console). What's behind the 3.5mm jack?. A seriously un-necessary 6 pin automotive plug: At the other end is an even more un-necessary 24 pin plug!!! I haven't come up with a solution for this yet...its probably going to involve cutting off the 24pin plug and soldering the wires up to a custom USB male port. I'll see how that goes, but its not going to bother me too much not using it at this point. Next issue. The reverse camera. Here's the plug for the camera which normally goes into the back of the McIntosh. And, here's what the H.U gives me to insert it into... Yup....An RCA lead that's designed for an aftermarket camera. NOT the stock camera. ("plug and play" they said...) It comes with 2 RCAs so you can hook up 2 cameras. The second one is supposed to be a front mount camera for the bumper OR a side mount camera for assisting with parallel parking. I guess you could hook up a Go-Pro to it, BUT there's actually another set of RCA's again which you could attach a Go-PRO/playstation/DVD player for the kids. I've been doing some more research online but cant seem to quite work it out. The plug has 5 wires. My guess is: 1 for power, which (should be around 6 volt) which would connect to the purple "camera power" wire on the Chinese harness. 1 for earth. 2 for the signal to camera which would connect to the yellow RCA here. 1 for the "I'm in reverse" activation wire. This one isn't needed, as the H.U automatically switches to camera mode already when I chuck it into reverse. It just shows no signal at the moment. My first guess is: White/Light blue is the power. But it doesn't show 6 volt? I actually cant find 6 volts in any of them... Light blue/yellow and Light blue orange are the signal to go to the RCA. Black is earth. Leaving the Grey one not needed. But I'm not getting a signal....need more work on this one. The next issue was the very obvious fact that the dash fascia is actually for a left hand drive. After a fair bit of shaping and filing, the right hand side (by the gauges) fits pretty good. There's a small triangle hole, but isn't really bothering me. I can live with that. On the passenger side is a very obvious gap, and the last lug (top left corner) doesn't connect into the body, as its not long enough. To get around this, I'm thinking I will take my good fascia. (Right hand drive version) down to the plastic welders. Get them to cut both fascia's and weld the corner vent area of my good one onto the Chinese one. This will of course make the weld stand out. I'll get around this by either painting or vinyl wrapping the whole fascia. Option 2: Get an acquaintance of mine who owns a 3D printing company to make up a whole new fascia that the CUSP will screw up to. It would be the first available RHD version for these android units. Not sure on the cost of this yet.
  3. I recently imported my dream bh5 in the purple/ blue colour, auto ej206 which I'm fine with, it has 49,000 k"s and upon inspection it has had a centre decat and muffler delete and a back box from zero sports. It's a rev C from 2000 and I'm looking to get a base tune or Remap. I contacted possum bourne here in auckland but they are unable to tune the rev C ecu for some reason? Would anyone be able to point me in a direction of a tuner in auckland? Someone also mentioned on here about project lambda, I was wondering if anyone has had experience with them and if it's worth it. Thanks guys!
  4. Car - 2006 Subaru Legacy 3.0R-B WAGON with McIntosh factory 12 speaker system. So I have the standard issue that the factory McIntosh sub has split (I got it repaired at Axent Audio in Auckland but within a few weeks it had split in another place) so I am keen to replace it. I have fitted a blue-tooth kit to the factory McIntosh head unit as I quite like the factory set up, and basically couldn't justify the massive effort and price in changing out the head unit with it being interconnected with the dual zone climate a/c unit. I have found a replacement Sub which is a KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-XW800F SHALLOW-MOUNT 8″ 4-OHM SUBWOOFER from Driving Sound on Dominion Road - kenwood-excelon-kfc-xw800f-shallow-mount-8-4-ohm-subwoofer. The McIntosh is 4 ohm and so is the Kenwood unit I have found. I like my music but wouldn't say I particularly crank it all that much, thus I am not keen to go and "start again" with the whole system in order to get some that is next level. I want to know if the Kenwood unit will work as a straight replacement and will work with the factory amp (under passenger seat) as I have read some forums which make me think it won't, but the people at Driving Sound seem to think it will. The next issue is fitting it into the back right corner of my wagon, as although the unit isn't any deeper it is slightly wider overall (behind the front of the sub) so the bracket space needs to be increased. I could pay another $200 bucks and get box for it but then I loose some boot space the factory look which is quite important to me. As I am new to Auckland, I wondered if there is an automotive fabricator/chippie or someone else handy who I should/could get to do it. I just need some assistance in carving out some more space in that back right corner and creating a slot for the new sub. I am happy to pay the money to get it done properly as opposed to stuffing it up myself! A quick Google landed me on "Stu's Trim and Sound in Manukau. I am sure they could do it easily enough - any other suggestions or comments on the above in terms of things I have overlooked?! cheers. Mark
  5. I am looking at BR Legacy GTs, and Eyesight has a price premium. The specs of the imported cars are all over the place, and Eyesight can be optioned on seemingly any trim level. I had a brief drive in a friends' BP Outback XT with Eyesight and it was very novel. If you have Eyesight on your Subaru, what do you think of it? Does it work well? Is it annoying and you turn it off? Has it saved you from a collision?
  6. Hello everyone i have a 2001 bh5d legacy. The car has a really worn down steering rack and I am wondering what steering wracks are compatible with the car. Can I use a steering wracks of a wrx or sti? I'm am looking for a better feel because if something breaks it's good to replace it with something better. Should I just use a stock legacy steering rack with upgraded bushings and mounts (if that's a thing) thanks. Myzeeman
  7. Has anyone put UEL headers on a non turbo ej20 legacy. can it be done And what work would need to be done if any.
  8. Was looking at getting some shocks and springs for my car and found some bilstein shocks and lowering springs from a BP5 and he was running 18x8.5 215/40 will I run into any issues if I put them on a BL5 running 18x9 225/40
  9. Gidday people, I have a 2006 legacy Gtb auto gen 4, all stock, was driving long distance today and after 1hr 10mins I got a beep and a message in Japanese on the instrument cluster info part, and then again later on,any idea what this is, car still ran fine, cheers
  10. Evening all, Have recently brought a 2012 BM GT S Legacy, black, leather, full STi exhaust, 2.5 turbo and best of all 6 speed manual. Its a amazing car to drive, however the speedo, fuel consumption gauge and odometer has recently stopped working. Cruise control still works as normal. Wondering if anyone has had the same or similar experience and what may have caused the issue. Have checked to see any broken or loose cables, sensors etc but to no avail. The newer Subaru’s are a bit more fancy than the old STi parked beside it in the shed! Any suggestions greatly appreciated as the nearest Subaru dealer is somewhat of a drive away, we are located in Fiordland.
  11. Hi Guys Changed the thermostat in my 2002 B4 Legacy this morning. Noticed bubbles coming from the overflow. The car isn't over heating, coolant isn't boiling, A/C blowing hot air as it should, Thermostat definitely opening, Oil clear and clean. Going to be replacing the radiator cap and bleeding the cooling system again with the front jacked up this time, did it on a hill the first time hoping it would have the same effect. Any other ideas of what it might be or things to try before considering the possibility that the head gasket randomly started leaking straight after putting a new working thermostat in? Thanks Guys.
  12. Hi Team, I have a 2003 Legacy Wagon 2.0GT, with 280,000kms on the clock, only just run in..... A few weeks ago the engine light popped up along with a flashing SPORT light and ER HC on the digital trip meter. Very Christmas tree like... After plugging in the old ODM reader in, I got the P0600 - General High-Speed CAN fault. This was somewhat concerning but next to useless for trying to track down a fault. Off I went to the local Subaru shop to plug the car in to their SSM. The following additonal fault codes were also generated. P0725 – Engine Speed Input Circuit P1718 – AT CAN Communication Circuit P0817 – PN Signal output circuit The fault was sporadic for about a week and would come and go, but after that its pretty well full time. Easy stuff first - Some basic inspections of the ECM and wiring were carried out with out anything obvious, the Crank Position sensor was replaced (based on the P0725 fault code). Fault remains. After speaking to the Subaru mechanics they recommended replacing the Body Interface Unit (BIU). Sounds easy huh.......NO, the BIU includes the immobilizer circuit so the car wouldn't start. After finding someone who could re-programme the BIU to talk to my keys and get the car started, the fault still remains......Grrrr My next things to look at would be to replace the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) and/or the Transmission Probes/Harness. The fault codes appear to be linked to an electrical fault but if anyone has other recommendations, Im open to suggestions. Thanks in advance.
  13. Bought these off Trademe, seller claimed they are for BP Legacy models. Tried them on, they didn't exactly fit. I've searched online and the closest I could get to comparing these with are BE/BH Legacy floor mats. Can anyone confirm which model Legacy these mats are for? If anyone want's them, they're yours for $20.
  14. So I bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy Wagon that had minor outer panel damage to both doors on the passenger side. Randomly found a dude scrapping a car of the same model and colour, but Few years newer and higher spec than mine and managed to change the doors over myself. However, after I changed the doors and fired up the audio system for the first time (stock audio system in Subaru), I discovered the speakers just in the replaced doors don't work at all. I definitely correctly connected the speakers back up before I replaced the door panels. Audio system in the wrecked car was a Macintosh. I also bought the speakers from the guy and tried those and they don't work either. I'm assured that the speakers worked fine in the old car before it was wrecked. Anyone know any simple reason for the speakers in the replacement doors not working? Would the wiring be different from one year to the next of the same model car and therefore not be compatible with my audio system? Cheap and easy fix for an auto electrician or na? Thanks for any help in advance.
  15. Hi all, Over from the UKLegacy forums as I know quite a lot of you kiwis and aussies and have the tt leggys too! Was wondering if someone can shed some light on an issue im having. Car has been running like sh1t- poor fuel economy, lumpy acceleration, lumpy on idle when started from hot, struggles to stay alive as the revs want to drop. Plugged in SSM cable and front o2 sensor voltage was reading 0.000v. Cleaned the plug... still nothing. Replaced the sensor with a bosch universal 3 wire and its still showing 0.000v. Jumps to about .02v for a split second when the throttle is pressed but instantly drops back to 0v. When I test the black signal wire at the plug where the sensor joins the loom, there is 0.45v at idle (this is about right as this would suggest a normal AFR). This suggests the sensor is working and reading accurately. At the ecu however, the voltage is different. Service manual says that at the ecu plug, the o2 should see between 2.3-2.8v (iirc) . At the ecu pin, mine showed 0.80v with the car idling and o2 sensor unplugged. When plugged in, it jumped to 1.1v but fluctuated massively (down to about 0.6v when revved in neutral and back up to 1+ but never as high as 2v+. I tested the pins on the loom-side plug on the car to see if they were getting power. The heater wire pin was easy to identify as it was getting a solid 12v. The other white was the ground but was still getting like 0.5v. The signal wire itself was also getting about 0.38v which I found a bit strange but I dont understand enough about auto electrics to make sense of it. I tried bypassing the entire wiring to see if it was a wiring fault but didnt make much headway. I ran pins from all 3 ports on the o2 sensor plug. The heating elements went straight to the battery positive and negative terminals to simulate the 12v and the ground. The signal wire was ran directly from the 02 plug inside the car and alligator clipped to a paperclip jammed in the back of the 02 signal wire at the ecu. On ssm it showed a constant .330v (usually what a broken o2 will show). It would not move despite revving the car and stank of fuel due to it telling the car its was running a lean mix. Took it to a garage today and the lad was adamant that I should start with an oem sensor as universal ones are bad for subarus apparently. They dont agree with universal sensors etc. This wouldn't be an issue but the oem sensors are like £180/$250+ and im a student lol. Is there anything else I can try before buying one? This is the second universal bosch o2 inside 8 months, this is the reason Im worried it isnt the actual fault of the sensor. Im fairly confident there is something else weird going on with the ecu/wiring. Any help is much appreciated, thank you troops
  16. hi guys ive just bought my first subaru had been a v8 fan for years but decided to try something new , i have a 2005 legacy blitzen single turbo manual its nice car runs well been looked after, i have not been able to find any info on this model i found lots on twin turbo , did this come out with a single turbo or is it aftermarket any info be cool cheers
  17. It is a Subaru Legacy S401 STI. Sold - New Zealand New not Import Produced on the BE platform with input from the ‘STI’ performance division, the S401 was released in 2002 featuring a twin sequential turbo 2.0L EJ208 engine producing 289 horsepower and 253 ft.lb of torque, mated to a 6-speed manual gearbox (taken from the Impreza WRX STI). The highlight of this model though, was that it was the last Subaru model to feature the sequential twin turbocharging first introduced in 1993 in the 1st generation of the model. Unfortunately Subaru’s concept never was able to be fully refined (owing to noticeable turbo lag between the transitional periods of both turbochargers at 3,500-4,000 RPM), and the S401 was a ‘sayonara’ to the design as Subaru moved back to single-turbocharged units. Only 400 were produced, mainly sold within the Japanese market (although 2 made it into Australiasia / New Zealand). Basically, Subaru decided “Hey, this is the last of the twin turbo Legacies, lets get STI to throw the lot at it and make the ultimate Twin Turbo Legacy”. What did it get? Well, 6 Speed manual gearbox, front LSD, retuned ECU, hand-built engine, STI exhaust, Intercooler pipes, full STI suspension, big ass Brembo brakes, some lush BBS 18″wheels, exclusive front bumper, side skirts and intercooler scoop. It also gets a stunning half leather/Alcantara interior, red stitching, and an STI full dash cluster. There’s a few other bits here and there, but that’s the main parts. This Japanese website lists everything in detail, it’s an amazing site. It’s a really nice place to be, the seats are very comfortable and the interior is simple and easy to use. The 6 speed gearbox, mostly shared with various other STI and later model Legacies, is lovely to use, direct with short ratios. The STI suspension is nothing short of amazing. Cruising down the motorway it’s firm, and flat, but sucks up all the bumps like they are nothing. Hit some corners, and it’s flat and just grips and grips. The S401 was a limited edition, and they were apparently going to make 400 of them, hence the number is ***/400 on the badging. In reality, they never made that target, and there were only approx 290 cars made ever making this 401 a very rare NZ new car. mine is #233/400 i do have photos and am happy to answer any further questions. This car is extremely genuine and I would like to pass it on to a genuine buyer who would appreciate what it is. I’m open to offers
  18. Hi guys, I'm wanting more information on cert costs for the removal of factory steering wheel with airbag. The car is 19 years old so it meet the LVVTA age requirements for removal but if it's gonna cost $800 odd dollars then I'm not gonna bother. Cheers
  19. Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone can help before I hit up an auto sparkie. The climate control screen in my BP5 Spec B legacy has stopped working, the climate control still works perfectly fine, its just the screen that has gone. The Macintosh system still works fine too. Just wondering if anyone has experienced this and can help me fix it. Cheers!
  20. Hi all, first time poster, long time lurker. So I have this '02 Blitzen wagon that I've already spent waay too much money on, so this is the latest drama. When driving the radio will cut out randomly (turn off and straight back on), this can happen a few times before the headlights/interior lights etc all start to flicker a bit, followed by the whole cars power going out for between 1 to 3 seconds, before all comes back on and she continues on no prob, until the process starts again. I've already spent too much at the auto electricians replacing the ignition switch and generally waste of time fault finding. I'm thinking it's either the radio feeding back and overloading the system, or the relatively recently installed AVS alarm/immobiliser is cutting in randomly. Anyone had a similar issue that they got to the bottom of?? Any insight is much appreciated!
  21. Hi there. Anyone in Dunedin have a spare spigot bearing in Dunedin. Preferably needed ASAP otherwise I'll go to a shop in the morning. Thanks, UPDATE: I GOT ONE!!
  22. Hi, Legacy 2005 BPE Can you please help me identify this part on the suspension of my Legacy? Is it the Sway bar bush? Can I replace this myself? https://photos.app.goo.gl/gjjDwCxXGY31fNhm6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/oJ9FPiXcxSp5F1yd7 Thanks all, Donald, Queenstown New Zealand
  23. So, it's my birthday tomorrow, and I want to go drag racing! I'm heading to Meremere Dragway with the family in the Legacy. I'd like to take it down the track a few times...to have some fun with the family, and get a starting performance base before the fixes and modifications start. Will I need a helmet? Will I have to prep the car to pass a safety inspection there? Being an automatic, what RPM should I launch with the foot brake, and at what RPM should I be shifting? Also, is anyone else going? Do you want to meet up? Thanks! Greg
  24. so recently purchased a 2001 legacy ej20 e-tune 5spd manual and everything was running fine until a couple days ago. 1- check engine light has been coming on then turning off at random times mainly when idling for longer period of time . 2- so car drives fine and normal with no problem until you want to hit accelerator and take it up to around 4k rpm then it starts to shake and just refuses to climb any further until you change up a gear then does the same thing until your in 5th. once in 5th if you just slowly increase the acceleration then it will pick up speed and cruise fine at 150khms (not actual cruising speed I follow the rules ha sometimes) . no funny sounds no leaks I can see and no other problems. just scaring me bit as to hoping its nothing major. I'm thinking maybe fuel related and not turbo related but would love some input. located in Otago and am keen to find good reliable Subaru techs for future mods if anyone has some recommendations .
  25. Hi, I am in the progress of fitting cruise control to my 2010 Subaru legacy I’m after a 4 pin brake light switch that I seem to find easily everywhere online. But unfortunately I am having a very hard time finding the 4 pin connector that plugs into it. Is there any chance anyone would be able to tell me what the part number would be or where to find it? I had a chat to someone from PartSouq and they were unable to help me without a part no.. Also, would anyone be able to give me info as that which ECU pins I need for wiring the 2 required wires to it? This is what I need: 1. Brake light switch (PN: 83370AA001) easy to find – https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=83370AA001 or the alternative: https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/tridon-na---sourcing-new-supplier/SPO6453972.html 2. 4 pin male connector to go into the above (no idea where to find) – Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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