Refurb solenoid box

[Guest]

 Rosssub said:

AFAIK the ECU will only alter/lower boost levels when it goes into \'Limp Mode". Normally only happens with massive (20psi+) boost spikes or code 65/66 CEL boost issues. I think Limp mode drops the boost to Waste Gate Spring Pressure (about 7psi), but don\'t quote me on that ;D

Okay. Done anyway, didn\'t throw any codes, didn\'t make much difference either.

Just before I start ripping wheels and splash guards off, the primary boost solenoid will be in there yes? I notice you have a BH5 & I\'m working on a BG5 is all. I\'m assuming you have taken this into account but I just can\'t see lines 23 & 10 entering the guard from the engine bay.

EDIT: Found em!

[Guest]

Okay. So.

Disconnected #10 at the primary boost solenoid, disconnected #23 at the Primary turbo-T, sprayed carb cleaner down whilst in D-moden& blew excess through. Could see it was coming out at solenoid end.

But, seems like once again, no major differences. Maybe holding boost a little more steady, and gained possibly 0-0.5psi, but not what I was hoping for

I could do an ECU reset and re-learn again but don\'t think this will make much difference.

Is this process I did correct? Is there anything else I should try?

[Rosssub]

Yip that\'s right, bummer that\'s not the problem. Have you tested for Boost Leaks?

-Get hold of an Air Compressor, set at 10-15psi.

-Pull your AFM out and block the inlet with a Baked Bean Can/Vegemite Jar etc.

-Then pull a hose of the Manifold (maybe Fuel Pressure Reg Hose, or BOV hose)

-Put compressed air into the Mani and see if it\'s leaking/hissing out anywhere.

[Guest]

 Rosssub said:

Yip that\'s right, bummer that\'s not the problem. Have you tested for Boost Leaks?

-Get hold of an Air Compressor, set at 10-15psi.

-Pull your AFM out and block the inlet with a Baked Bean Can/Vegemite Jar etc.

-Then pull a hose of the Manifold (maybe Fuel Pressure Reg Hose, or BOV hose)

-Put compressed air into the Mani and see if it\'s leaking/hissing out anywhere.

I haven\'t.

Good advice. Will give this a go as soon as I can get my hands on an air compressor haha! Any other techniques I could possibly try without one in the mean time?

[Rosssub]

You can do a Vacuum Leak test, while the car is idling. Spraying Engine Starter Fluid around all joins/hoses/gaskets etc (carefully, with a hose/fire extinguisher handy). If there is a leak the engine will suck in the Fluid and the idle speed will change.

Some Boost Leaks only open up while under pressure (boost), so might not be found with the Vac/Fluid test.

[Guest]

Been doing some more reading today. Could coil packs be a possibility?

[Guest]

Yeah I said that before on the other page,

[Rosssub]

 bnneie said:

It\'s spiking to 10/11psi in primary initially then going down and staying constant around 8.

On twins it feels reluctant and is maxing out around 12.

Idling is fine, ~1200rpm whilst cold, ~600 (+/-50 rpm) whilst warm.

My car idles at 680-720, at 600ish I\'d be looking for a Vac Leak. Primary Boost Spiking the settling lower could be a Boost Leak. If it\'s not a gunked up Boost Solenoid (cleaned). A Vac Leak at Idle can be a Boost Leak under pressure. Do the Leak tests next, then maybe start looking at Ignition faults?

Edit: Has it had a new AFM?

[Guest]

 Rosssub']

[quote name='bnneie said:

It\'s spiking to 10/11psi in primary initially then going down and staying constant around 8.

On twins it feels reluctant and is maxing out around 12.

Idling is fine, ~1200rpm whilst cold, ~600 (+/-50 rpm) whilst warm.

/quote]

My car idles at 680-720, at 600ish I\'d be looking for a Vac Leak. Primary Boost Spiking the settling lower could be a Boost Leak. If it\'s not a gunked up Boost Solenoid (cleaned). A Vac Leak at Idle can be a Boost Leak under pressure. Do the Leak tests next, then maybe start looking at Ignition faults?

Edit: Has it had a new AFM?

Okay yeah I\'m leaning towards a leak myself. Am going around my engine bay as we speak inspecting the lines but doubt I\'m going to find much this way. Will get my hands on an air compressor. Or could a bike pump work? Maybe?

Not as far as I\'m aware. Any sure way I can check?

[Rosssub]

Don\'t think a bike pump would do it. There\'s no way to check how old an AFM is, they can be out/faulty without tripping a CEL. If the Leak tests don\'t find a fault and you have no misfiring (ignition fault), then maybe trying another AFM after that might be the go? Or the Turbo might be on it\'s way out? :-\ Rule out a Vac Leak/Boost Leak first. Process of elimination