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Boost bleed valve?


kenyanwarrior

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retune, electronic controler, change in restricter pill size, pull the hoses off and "mad freeboosties yo"

in all seriousness, it depends entirely on your setup and goals. sometimes less boost is better with a bigger airflow (bigger turbo) as the standard vf and td turbos turn into hairdryers rather fast.

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Something must be wrong, does the check engine light ever come on? Any splits or holes in the intake pipe?

You can put it into test mode by connecting the green and black plugs under the dash. Then see if the exhaust control valve/intake valve and solenoids are all working:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes

Check the diaphragm inside the BOV, secondary relief valve, exhaust control valve actuator and waste gate actuator. (all shown in first few pages).http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40911-Inside-the-BBOD/page10

Check the internal diaphragm by connecting a length of vac hose to the items vac nipple, then suck on it and cover the end of the hose with your tongue. It should hold vacuum permanently. If the vacuum lets go there is a hole in the diaphragm and that item needs replacing.

Make sure there are no splits/holes in the intake pipe, between the air filter and turbo's.

Can do a boost leak test, by blocking the intake at the AFM. Then pump 10-15psi into the manifold with an air compressor. Any boost leaks will be obvious.

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_014.jpg

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_015.jpg

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