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Compression testing


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So im looking to buy a 4wd as we all know.

Have a few likely contenders but a friend has advised me to get a compression test on any vehicle i look to buy.

I have heard to avoid a "static?" compression test, as apparently they mean jack shit. Anyone in the know care to shed any light on this?

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I have no idea what a static compression test means

The biggest issue u will have is finding some one who can do a diesel compression test as it takes special equipment and longer time

I can do it for u but I am in the middle of know where so ain't much use :)

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Guest boostcut

i think its along the lines of a cylinder leakage test. its not bad but certainly not as good as a dynamic compression test.

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yup and if it is a diesel vehicle u may have to go to a diesel specialist as most run of the mill workshops wont have a diesel compression tester(they may be becoming more wide spread now that there are more diesel vehicles out there but i use to be the case)

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yeah thats what i was thinking.

There is a diesel doctor 5 mins drive from my place so i guess thats the place to go.

Scoped out a 93 Pajero 2.8 turbo diesel. 160 odd kms and seems to be immaculate. Still.....want it mechanically checked for peace of mind.

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Pajero = POS

engine=to small for size of truck=engine working hard all the time=large fuel usage and engine goes bang early.

does it have a tow bar on it if so what is its rating if it has a 3500 kg one it has probably been a gee gee tow car...

check chassis for rust(easy to spot and will point to beach/farm use) also if the underside has had a new spray steer clear...

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 DRFVDR said:

Pajero = POS

engine=to small for size of truck=engine working hard all the time=large fuel usage and engine goes bang early.

does it have a tow bar on it if so what is its rating if it has a 3500 kg one it has probably been a gee gee tow car...

check chassis for rust(easy to spot and will point to beach/farm use) also if the underside has had a new spray steer clear...

+1

Very prone to head gasket issues also

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Guest boostcut

thats true, but more so for old school engines, theres so many vacuum swithching valves and vacuum tanks etc on late model engines that average joe wouldnt know what to read or even where to hook the guage up.

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 boostcut said:

thats true, but more so for old school engines, theres so many vacuum swithching valves and vacuum tanks etc on late model engines that average joe wouldnt know what to read or even where to hook the guage up.

i agree with your point... mine is a version 4 and i just unplugged the pipe that goes to the blowoff valve from the throttle body.. the main thing is to hook the guage up on the throttle body where all the vacumm is before it splits and enter its respective cylinders....

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Guest boostcut

yeah i know, i thort he would be talking about a subaru... alot of people on here think their boost guage is a correct vacuum guage but because of the big steps in the reading its pretty inaccurate and also its not psi of vacuum like i read in another thread its inches or mm of hg or mercury.

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 DRFVDR said:

um we talking a diesel here

vacuum guage not so reliable

u may find no vacuum at all depending on whether the accelerator opens the pump directly or has a butterfly in the intake :)

I didn't want to say anything incase I was wrong.

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 catsoup']

[quote name='DRFVDR said:

um we talking a diesel here

vacuum guage not so reliable

u may find no vacuum at all depending on whether the accelerator opens the pump directly or has a butterfly in the intake :)

/quote]

I didn't want to say anything incase I was wrong.

Have I not taught u anything about diesel :)

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I was cought up in picturing my truck and thinking how it would only prove that i dont change my air filter enough. Done the cabin filter in altezza over weekend. What a difference.

As for thread topic (sort of), there are no gains in getting a diesel engine unless you are using the torque the engine produces. Bloody govt priced them off the market. Over $400 a year for redgo plus ruc on top of that...

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well the plan is for the mrs to drive it daily and for me to drive it to mt hutt whenever humanly possible.

We should easily clock up the kms. Plus the diesel vehicles definately are nicer on the hill!

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+ for diesel are More torque for size of engine,way more economical,better in extreme weather,less complicated(until u get to common rail),less heat produced,better for enviroment(when properly tuned/maintained)vehicles will do huge kilometres before they die

- for diesel higher rego and RUC,less heat produced(take longer for heater to warm up :) )

once upon a time the running costs of diesel VS petrol were alot higher but this has changed as the fuel,oil,air filters are similiarly priced now.

Also if u get a turbo diesel they respond well to a few performance mods,big bore exhausts help them breath,and if u have a spare boost tap lying around u can up it a bit as well :)

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 catsoup said:

I was cought up in picturing my truck and thinking how it would only prove that i dont change my air filter enough. Done the cabin filter in altezza over weekend. What a difference.

As for thread topic (sort of), there are no gains in getting a diesel engine unless you are using the torque the engine produces. Bloody govt priced them off the market. Over $400 a year for redgo plus ruc on top of that...

I have that spare cleaned airfilter here still :)

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