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Anti Lift Kit (ALK) basics


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The location is - That thread you linked confirmed that more or less

The material is not, and half the gain concerned is in changing to nolothane - that and the white line kit also adds castor whereas the forester mount does not

Just space the stock mount downwards - as said - and combine with that "free castor mod" and you\'ve got effectively the same result without lightening the wallet by $250 odd

P.S I\'m going to try that this weekend if I can find something suitable to make the spacers out of, what I thought was an ALK is just a nolothaned mount - already done the castor thing which had an immediate noticable change, and well... I like the cost a lot

All you\'re doing is forcing the arm to not be perpendicular to the body by spacing the mount downwards a bit - it shifts the load from body to suspension. Whether you do this by a physically longer mount or spacing it wouldn\'t make much difference - as koom said. I\'ve found a couple of mentions online of people just using spacers saying it drives identical to an off the shelf ALK so worth a go

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 Marky said:

The material is not, and half the gain concerned is in changing to nolothane - that and the white line kit also adds castor whereas the forester mount does not

I was thinking Id do the spacer mod then I remembered from selling foz bushes they sat lower hence my question. I can get them new 20ish each so if they did the same job without spacers it would just look a bit tidier less chance of wof man saying anything. I cant do the other free mod as only got standard arms. Why does the whiteline kit add castor as opposed to the forester one on a gc/gf chassis not?

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I think the bush has the hole offset (on an angle?) or something - i think there\'s some mention of "if I put these in a fozz what happens" - answer is "nothing but gain castor"?

I dunno, didn\'t look into it all that much, don\'t quote me on a damn thing

Or else

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 Marky said:

I think the bush has the hole offset (on an angle?) or something - i think there\'s some mention of "if I put these in a fozz what happens" - answer is "nothing but gain castor"?

I dunno, didn\'t look into it all that much, don\'t quote me on a damn thing

Or else

That was my q from the beginning. Foz or spaced bush would still make castor just put stress on bush.

In a forester it wouldnt gain castor even if it was the same on an angle it would just stress the bush making it straight. I would hazard a guess that forester have a different one again.

Wont quote you again sir.

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All is forgiven my good man

Where\'s my monocle

In other news (I has very limited understanding of this stuff bear in mind)

Just twisting the mount using the slotting available - like so it\'s angled outwards looking towards the front - has the result of pushing the lower arm out / forward and increasing castor - yes it loads the bush up but it still works

So having an angled bush would still give the same net result - like you can buy castor increasing bushes which are just offset, instead of the whole new mount that the ALK uses with more height

Hurr hurr bush

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 Marky said:

All is forgiven my good man

Where\'s my monocle

In other news

Just twisting the mount using the slotting available - like so it\'s angled outwards looking towards the front - has the result of pushing the lower arm out / forward and increasing castor - yes it loads the bush up but it still works

So having an angled bush would still give the same net result - like you can buy castor increasing bushes which are just offset, instead of the whole new mount that the ALK uses with more height

Hurr hurr bush

Ill see what I come up with. If Ive got some plate I can chop and drill thats me this weekend.

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 Koom said:

Cheap method (if you have some handy skills and your control bushes are in good condition (already replaced etc etc)) is to get some 40x10 (or 40x15) flat bar and cut it into four 40x40 squares. Drill a 13mm hole through the centre and then put these between the lower control arm bushes and the chassis, effectively lowering this rear bush by 10mm (or 15mm if you used thicker etc) and giving the same effect. Just ensure you have enough of the bolt engaged in the thread.

Took me about 15mins to make, 5 to wait for the paint to dry (I have no patience for paint) and then about 15 mins to install.

Having access to a drop saw and a proper drill press helps.

Make that 14mm boss. I had my doubts. Shouldnt believe everything you read on the webs. ;)

Plenty of thread on the standard bolt too.

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 evowrx said:

Havent got a drill bit nor chuck that big so not on there yet. Cant see it doing anything but improving the handling tho.

Isn\'t that all its intended to do? i.e. its a handling improvement modification???

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 Koom']

[quote name='evowrx said:

Havent got a drill bit nor chuck that big so not on there yet. Cant see it doing anything but improving the handling tho.

/quote]

Isn\'t that all its intended to do? i.e. its a handling improvement modification???

Absolutely its only going to improve it.

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Plenty of bolt length on mine anyway roughly 50-60mm long. Just redrilled last night so will get em on sometime. Cost me $15 the set.

Defo 14mm hole. 40x40x10mm was what I got thought it would twist the bush less but it probably wouldnt make a difference in reality.

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