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  1. Past hour
  2. Finally used the towbar for something other than destroying my shins...
  3. Spotted Club Sub member Taylor while Stephan Shin & I were out for a cruise on Friday night 😁
  4. Today
  5. Could be related indeed I don't know much about Japan but looks like they really like turbos as well.
  6. If they have a smoke machine, it's relatively quick.
  7. yup i had one, definitely very loud used to rattle the whole house on idle, my fitment wasn't bad but yeah if you get a decent muffler on it i think it would be ok.
  8. haha I see... I think ill just find a downpipe for now.
  9. I would be inclined to think the oil you were charged for was not the oil used in the box. Be it a mistake or something who knows. Or it has an lsd diff requiring lsd oil.
  10. Update on this gearbox horror story... Good News... vertex swapped out for Motul 300LS and this has completely changed the drive. Front is now much less binding and sounds almost silent, back to how is was but with better gear selection. Very happy so far... however.. Bad news... My DCCD light is not working... Shortly after the vertex oil was used, I noticed an occasional DCCD indicator flash "some might say - flashing green "O"..." and the scroll not changing dash light (when flashing of course). This happened maybe 2 or 3 times after running the vertex stuff, but was reset and okay after a stop/start. Then, I had it tuned and was run up a few times on full lock on the dyno, since then, solid DCCD flash on IGN. I know orange is not advisable on tarmac and lock would be crazy.. but I have "momentarily tested" various settings on the road (when the DCCD flash first started those couple of times to try figure out WTF is going on) - is this enough to damage it? - but other than that, its only ever set to OPEN or one click up (still green) My limited understanding is that the DCCD flash could mean a number of potential causes, DCCD scroller, DCCD controller, handbrake sensor, dash, wiring to DCCD unit itself. Also steering angle sensor and ABS, however I don't think mine has either of those, definitely no ABS. I understand the DCCD itself is relatively simple (an electromagnet) but there seems to be a number of bits to make it all work. After swapping vertex for Motul, I'd hoped that the flashing would stop.. I know, wishful thinking... it hasn't. I've since disconnected battery, left off for 24hrs, and was excited to see it didn't instantly go from orange LOCK lite, to green O flash, flash on IGN, instead, for the first time since tuning... it stayed solid until I drove 200m down the road... However there is a slight improvement since the battery disconnect reset, although it mainly jumps straight to flashing on IGN.. BUT very occasionally, will not instantly flash. It somehow managed to not flash long enough for me to prove that the scroll works, dash lights work with the scroll setting, and it mechanically feels like its functioning "slow figure 8's in gravel in LOCK" and she felt like its locked to me - which I think proves its not a failed fuse or relay and the handbrake unbinds/unlocks when in LOCK proving that the handbrake sensor is okay. So I have hope its not completely stuffed. I had a feeling that switching on IGN on an incline helped it to not instantly flash giving me a chance to begin trial and error tests, but seems to be more my imagination than fact, and it really does seem random when the flash stops long enough to left me test things. Anyway... not sure what the next step is, to me it feels like a loose wire, bad earth somewhere that possibly a result of the feedback (shuddering) when running Vertex. BTW, The people who swapped the gear oil over tried to get diag codes "ie count the flashes" off the DCCD controller/ECU but failed to get it to provide them. So, any info, insight, links to how to get DCCD codes off a TY752VB5CA, or wiring diagram for V3 Type-RA DCCD would be highly appreciated... Thanks
  11. i have one. its FUXXING LOUD with the silencer out, and sounds like dragging plastic with the silencer in. like, drove from masterton to fielding at the flatnats before last, had a pounding headache for the rest of the day. fitment is average at best. its a bit short, and puts a lot of force on the turbo as it doesnt brace very well. im finally happy with mine, extended the mid section by about an inch and a half, and v-banded my sti genome tip to the back section. its now practical as a daily... lol its cheap for a reason. oh, and dont use the included up-pipe, its crap. its too big, kills response
  12. Spray brake cleaner over all the vac lines (from end to end) and around any intake manifold gaskets when idling... any change in idle due to spraying the brake cleaner will indicate a leak. Also you can squeeze each vac line in turn with some pliers... again, any change in idle means you have found the leaking vac line.
  13. My BMF is definitely larger, heavier and more 'boaty' feeling than my BEE was. More power too though I imagine they can be made to handle very well though. A touch of anti-roll, bracing and lowering the centre of gravity.
  14. Theres an Auckland fuel tax? costs me $100/$120 to fill up my RS with 98, last about 350kms my diesel turbo ute gets roughly 700-800kms out of a $60 tank ! Gogo diesel for roadtrippin!
  15. 1 of my nz new bp Legacys are doing it. Other 2 are not
  16. This happened on my NZ new facelift car last weekend too. Dash lit up E/T 2 ( Engine Time 2 hours since start up ). I was getting close to Tauranga from Auckland.
  17. Where was that? I'll grab 70L thanks!
  18. lol good time to fill up the subi... What does 98 usually cost including the Auckland fuel tax?
  19. saw a Station in Akl advertising they were out of 91 so were selling 98 at 91 prices!
  20. Ring Gerald at Strong for Subaru and ask if they have a 3" Bellmouth do to suit whatever flange you have. Dont faff about on anything else there is no point at this stage.
  21. I wonder how much of NZ's love of turbos is drive by the fact that we import do many cars from Japan?
  22. ZeroSports 2.75 inch.
  23. I do have a soft spot for BP spec b wagons. Probably why they are relatively expensive. I think a base spec BR looks worse than a base spec BP,which may be what drives some of the hate. It does feel boat like relative to my BP,both in terms of width and handling. Think I might need a rear sway bar upgrade...
  24. My knock sensor melted at Manfeild. Looked like a blob of licorice.
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