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  1. Today
  2. Right hand side (drivers) towards the front from memory
  3. you have a BG5 GTB yeah? (more details = better answers) So did I I went from a 18/19 to a 33/27 odd pair or something like that, ye it worked hardest part was the change in turbo inlet size that meant different intake runner from the air box & such pretty much same turbo's otherwise just newer
  4. Had a dent fixed by paintless dent removal. Came out really good. About 95%, given it was on the wheel arch of the front wheel. Should have done it years ago.
  5. Thanks for that pl0x, but the car is almost finished so maybe next time.
  6. thats for the downpipe one? if so that one is plugged in, what about the on that is before the up pipe?
  7. I swear I feel like one of my kidneys is gone too. Just from that one time I parked next to you at Caffeine and Classics.
  8. Near the fire wall
  9. hi, been tinkering with the progect for now and i seem to have misplaces where the o2(a/f) sensor (the 4 pin plug with 3 wires used) plugs into car is a my97 v3 wrx with ej20k is it on the car loom or manifold or somewhere else?
  10. To be fair if your oil drain on a Subaru is anywhere near a manifold you're doing it wrong.
  11. Yup completely agree. @boon I had a chat with GSS performance and they have speedflow AN fittings and braided lines all in stock so can get it from them. So you're saying go braided over any hard lines? I was moving away from going hard lines as they sound complex and seem to be prone to expansion issues etc. which if not done right could be a recipe for disaster. GSS recommended if i'm running a drain line near any of the exhaust manifold / upipe etc, would need proper heat wrapping to shield it.
  12. If you get this S*** wrong, your car catches fire. No ifs, buts, or maybes, just a burnt car. Don't get it wrong. What they are suggesting sounds sane. If you aren't already twisted there is some S*** that I strongly recommend with regards to the turbo oil feed and the driver's side AVCS solenoid; that is to say replacing all of the hardlines with braided, which requires a couple of very specific fittings - unsure if your model is at all different to the GDs in that sense.
  13. Yeah I'd suggest checkout out all your bushes and mounts. Car is old enough now to have seen some decent wear through the control arm bushes and engines and trans mounts
  14. Could be, something I'll certainly check out. Certainly wasn't my first thought as the last time I had this issue (on Commodore), the symptoms were totally different. I didn't notice that when driving, only idle. In the case of my Impreza, it's a bit lumpy on idle. When it does it, there is no issue with the revvs or the speed.
  15. Worn engine mounts?
  16. Hey all, joined up to the forum to get some help with my GG EJ20. I have a slight issue when accelerating in that my car dies this weird sort of bounce thing. It's hard to describe, feels like I have super tight suspension going over corrugations slowly....but not that noticeable if you get me? It's not the drive train or anything like, it's the engine. While parked I revved it and the weird vibrations started around 2000rpm. There doesn't seem to be any loss of power at any point and there is no check engine light. The cam belt was done at 160k, the car just ticked over 200k. It's a 2000 2.0 manual. And ideas on where I should look? Thanks guys
  17. Yesterday
  18. Replaced wooden boat wheel with new omp one.
  19. I've got both TT turbos (which I thought were off a BE5) in the garage taking up space. Pm me if you'd like me to check if one is a vf26.
  20. Thanks for the advice. I will probably leave the primary turbo for now, but if it does fail later on then I will definitely upgrade the core.
  21. best bit is you're not stuck! BUT yeah a spare would be ideal & I always recommend people get them I can do most non-RFID keys up until the late 90's & nothing like the pressure of getting someone home, I've had to hotwire a Lancaster once & get it back to my shop to complete the key making process (I'm not mobile & have the basics)
  22. Yeah the key starts the car fine and locks it manually. Thanks for the help
  23. Check with them first I think you'll find most do (they can cover call out & emergency costs too such as after hours) if it starts the car : CHOICE skip the above it's the RFID chip inside that's the hard part of the process, the unlock / lock part (wireless?) is separate & yeah new Battery might work for that, or it may need 're-pairing' to your car to get an 'offical' subaru key , go to a dealer, or a Locksmith can do it & perhaps they will have a 'knock off' key fob that does all the same tricks for lower cost but still Insurance could cover it but yeah might not be worth the potential excess or claim
  24. This is a cool mod if you have the ability (and vf27's are cheap and common):
  25. I have insurance But not sure if they cover lost keys I have a spare key but doesnt wireless lock. Not sure if its because it needs a battery or something. Cheers
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