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  2. http://safehousegame.co.nz/ - a casino for real gamblers!
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  3. Today
  4. Good to know. Definitely will push this on my friends irl that have a BP/BL Legacy then. Cheers!
  5. @Subirex Automotive is the go to Subaru mechanic in Auckland. They're really knowledgeable and fair on price.
  6. Does the aftermarket clutch plate have a solid center or springs.Mechanic talked me into a solid center clutch plate and said if I didn’t like it,he’d replace it no charge.Quick test drive,gearbox rattle was unbearable,returned car,picked up car next day with new sprung center clutch. Maybe not your issue,but it looks like your going to have to drop your gearbox to find the problem.Would pay to have a replacement gearbox ready if needed.Ask here for a recommended Subaru mechanic in your area.
  7. Go genuine,Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings.Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.MRT Performance YouTube “Old vs new Ej cam and timing belt comparison,what to look for” just posted.
  8. Hey man. Can't thank you enough for putting time aside to help me understand my cars tune. I feel more assured I won't break anything now. (Or yet) for the time being anyway. My moneychanic has had the gearbox out twice now. Once when he did the clutch about 20k k's ago and recently when he replaced the engine. The gearbox has had a lot of strain on it with the hks kit I guess. But surely he lubricated the bearings etc at the time of removal. Who knows. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  9. As someone who was on the tools once upon a time, if you're REALLY particular, go genuine. Otherwise OEM stuff is great. Just make sure that the bearings in the idlers are Made in Japan, not China. And you'll want all idlers (there's 4), tensioner and water pump done too. Cam and crank seals - probably worthwhile doing. I did my cambelt myself - Speed Academy have an excellent video on this. I used a Gates kit, with a GMB water pump for my car. Wanted the Gates Blue Racing cambelt - but nearest one was Melbourne. Next time!
  10. Have been in this car, story checks out haha. Very odd. When was the clutch done, it sounded more flywheel/clutch/spigot/thrust bearing location but super hard to tell. If the thrust and spigot bearing were not replaced with the clutch it could be that? But I think you might be right in assuming its something going bad in the gearbox... It might be cheaper to bin the trans and pickup a lower milage one. 5 Speeds can be had for $300-400 these days and then its just a straight swap, rather than full teardown and diagnosis. Could flick the old one off as noisy but functioning to get some cash back. Hope others on here can chime in as i'm mostly lost on this too
  11. BNT have rear KYB's for a GGA in stock Part # 334303 LH Rear 334302 RH Rear
  12. Hello, welcome. Thank you for being here. I've got a constant rattle through all the gears in my BH5, whether the clutch is in or out doesn't change anything. The clutch is not that old. It doesn't become more or less quiet with heat either. It also doesn't change over a period of time. Whether coasting in neutral or under load, at any speed there's what seems like either dry bearings rattling or something that's spinning which is loose etc you get the idea. From my research it seems it's to do with the bearings in the transmission. I searched videos and read forums diagnosing what relates to my problem specifically. The video link below is a YouTube video of a countershaft bearing which needs replacing and sounds exactly like what my problem is. Question. Does anyone know a guy of a guy who has the equipment to replace this for me. Or at least correctly diagnose my issue because I'm at a loss. Moneychanics are so F***ing expensive with this kind of thing because it's on charge up cost. It literally makes me want to throw the car in the rubbish (Figuratively speaking). I'm somewhat OCD so this really grinds my gears. Ha. Ha. Cheers guys. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  13. Hey man ill have a little look but I might just go straight to either torque performance or the tuner you recommended. I got the muffler put back on as I failed my wof and it sounds really good for a equal header so luckily that’s one problem Gone. The compression tests cane back really good (as in even) I’m just at work at the moment but when I get home I’ll try post a pic of them.
  14. Yes that sounds like a plan
  15. Rear suspension is on the way out (well one has given up already from the ride and noises) Normally when things expire I just bolt in and STi equivalent but I'm told this is not an item that can be transplanted straight from a GD sedan? If that's the case whats the go to aftermarket strut for the GG? Not looking for trackday, just a decent upgrade from std. Cheers!
  16. Should go genuine for cambelt parts. Could offer to make up the cost difference between the aftermarket and genuine parts.
  17. Howdy team! I recently bought a 2007 Legacy GT Sedan from MotorCo in Auckland the car has just clicked over 106,000kms and at the time they informed me it had had the cambelt done, it turns out that is incorrect and they have offered to pay to get it done which is great! however they are not sending it to the Nelson Subaru Dealer here and are using another company which is trustworthy but wont be using genuine parts.. Should I be worried about this? I personally dont get anything else when I am paying for Subaru parts, should I try to get them to make sure genuine parts are used? Appreciate Peoples feedback
  18. Yesterday
  19. Hey everyone i want to swap over some headlights from a 97 bg5 into my 95 bg5. The plugs are different though and thought of checking in with you fullas to see if anyone had any experience with this model. Thanks in advance.
  20. ** Chirp** ........ **Chirp** Very quiet in here! Here we go. All cleaned up an puuuuurdy Who's next??
  21. It generally uses the factory wiring as a relay switch (turns the direct power wire on/off)
  22. Awesome. Thats good to know.so this is additional to the factory wiring? Sorry im not much good with electrical stuff.
  23. this rewire does make a difference actually.. did a pump hard wire on a B4 legacy and the injector DC dropped a fair bit with the same AFR in place...
  24. nothing behind the glove box that turns up the boost - unless its a hidden boost controller setup there from factory there is no wiring there to do any boost changes. the pump change is just a safety measure and also means after a tune you will not be potentially running out of fuel pressure etc.. check the boost solenoid and see if its still stock and maybe peek behind the glove box in case it does have a hidden unit for the sound - ur stuck with the twin scroll sound but with the right muffler it does sound pretty nice (i somewhat prefer it over the traditional one actually - the x-force mufflers seem pretty good but im sure there are others) what was the result of the compression test?
  25. Last week
  26. Basically that ^^. Pretty much a slightly larger power cable direct from the battery with a relay, Means the pump gets full voltage.
  27. Out of interest what is the wiring mod?
  28. Hey man! He said you can turn the boost up from behind the glove box? Or something like that. As far as I’m concerned the fuel pump is still OEM but when I did the full service aka compression test, exhaust leak check rady ra they said I’d need to get a new fuel pump eventually however atm it’s still fine. (Bit of a dummy) ahaha
  29. What's the wiring? factory wiring has voltage drop before the pump. A friend only made 200kw ish with Walbro on factory wiring, it was running out of fuel pump. With the wiring mod it made 230kw
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