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  1. Last week
  2. 2016 WRX Premium - FV231KS Fujistu-Ten head unit. Seems to now freeze after a couple of button clicks. Needs a car turn off on again to get functions again for a couple of clicks. In isolation everything workds. Just suddenly started. Thinks beep but the screen won't refresh with the matching menu, but for example the radio will turn on. Or the reverse camera will engage, if the screen hasn't locked up by touching. Any one experienced this before? The diagnostic menu checks (home, 5 clicks of tune) all pass. Battery pulled over night made no difference. Smacks of a software glitch but not way to reset. --- Might be a dealer visit I think. Any suggestions on good aftermarket units that keep all the factor features, particular inbuilt-nav (not carplay stuff), steering controls, and reversing camera. I really like the manual on/off switch and volume but nothing really seems to have that now.
  3. I think AVS had the 8-Dip Switches? so ya just matched them up? could be wrong : never had one Not exactly regarded as *HIGH* security by some ❤️
  4. What model alarm do you have? Sounds a little bit like you might need to re-pair the remote(s), buggered if I know how you do it, you probably need the overrride code which is usually entered by turning the ignition on and off. Meanwhile your alarm will be freaking out and the siren will be howling, unless you've got the override key for that and can switch it off... or smash it off the firewall and drop it in a bucket.
  5. Location? Or take it to a Sparky Aye that shouldn't happen, you could try find the Brain & get the Manual Override code I think those still have them (or remove / bypass it)
  6. My battery went flat in my car has since been charged and now my avs alarm won't disarm the car how do I fix this the light on the remote is red I have put in a new battery but still won't disarm the car
  7. Earlier
  8. Ok… what type of knocking? is it a single big knock or bouncing knock knock does it sound sharp and harsh or more dampened and springy is it only under braking or can it happen going over small speed bumps at low speed. does it come from the middle or sides of the car? with a passenger in the back seat so they can put their head out the window each side and tell which is louder. Go over a speed bump forwards then backwards. turn the wheels and look at the lower alloy arm rear rubber bush for cracks. Phone camera will show cracks better than you can see. a tire iron or crow bar applying a bit of force under then can show cracks better. its a common failure on the 2007-2013 until them swapped to ball joints. Whiteline did do balljoints for Motorsport use that pretty much like factory ones. bushes are reasonably easy to get eg BNT or others have replacements https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-double-offset-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-lib-9986-kca334.html https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-liberty-outback-9986-w53353.html
  9. Does it do it if you just coast to a stop without braking? What about if you use the handbrake to stop?
  10. Is it like a single knock as something moves forward when you brake or a repeated knock/clunk when doing so?
  11. I own a 2008 WRX STI. For the last 6 months or so I have had a knocking noise when breaking, I've had a mechanic look at it and he can't find the issue and set me back $2600 dollars.. he said it might be the lower sway arm but he can't find parts in New Zealand. He checked the bushes, bearings, breaks and calipers but the noise is still there! If I'm driving on the highway and break I can't hear it but if I'm pulling up to lights or intersections it's quite noticeable and bloody annoying.. any help or advice would be great as I don't want to sell it.. p.s I was told it's not an engine knock.
  12. I have noticed it's slightly worse with the AC and headlights on and whatnot, but again, only once it's warm. With a bit of throttle and under more load its perfectly fine, it really does just appear to be an idling too low issue, but without it being a vacuum leak I'm a bit stuck as to what the root cause would be. I'll get vacuum leaks checked again, wondering if theres any plausibility behind leaky injectors?
  13. Hmm okay maybe it is a more curly one. Is it caused by _any_ load on the engine (having the car in gear will slightly load it, viscous coupling blah blah blah) or only in gear? Try loading it up a bit (Air con, headlights + heated seats if you have them) in Park and see if it dips. How does it run with some throttle? If it was a spark/miss issue I feel like it would be more pronounced with more RPM and load, things like coils or plugs usually behave like that. It does feel a little bit like a slight air/fuel problem. Inclined to say a very small vacuum leak (more likely after the throttle body) or perhaps an issue with one of your exhaust oxygen sensors, although those usually throw a CEL.
  14. Had a shop do the compression test for me so they pulled them out and looked at them for me then as part of that. Both those guys and another shop told me the plugs should still be fine, but yea will be replacing them soon anyway. Plus did think it would be a bit strange for the issue to only be happening in gear if it was the plugs but happy to be wrong there.
  15. EThrottle cars don't have a IACV. They just open the throttle a bit when they need more air. So, uh, the spark plugs. How many did you pull out? And if you pulled them out to inspect them, why didn't you just put new ones in? "Rough idle. Haven't changed my plugs. Any suggestions?" Yeah I've got one I can think of...
  16. Out of my scope really, but could be your idle air control valve, if that's playing up it will give you issues with idle, especially if the engine gets loaded up a little as the valve may not be letting enough air through, hence it tries to stall. I know you said vacuum leaks are out, but check if any air is getting pulled in after the MAF, if you imagine the air filter creates a bit of a restriction and this can cause a slight vacuum in the intake even before the throttle, and if unmetered air gets in you could be running lean, and this could only give issues when idling, Just ideas for food, or thought or what ever the saying is, either way I'm hungry.
  17. Hi all, Thought I'd post here to get a better gauge of the issue, got a 2014 Legacy Spec B (just under 80k kms) idling a bit low and causing a mild/moderate rough idle in gear only. When car is shifted to neutral or park it subsides entirely. Sometimes engine will idle fine causing rough idle to be almost unnoticeable, but revs will drop too low for just a moment causing a shudder and it picks itself back up. Other times it is just a bit low causing the rough idle at traffic lights and what not. Info about the car as follows: * Car has had compression test returning values of ~150psi for all 4 cylinders which is within normal range. * No vacuum leaks * MAF sensor cleaned * Throttle body cleaned * Spark plugs average condition, will be replacing soon as part of service regardless * Not throwing any codes * No warning lights * Cam belt replaced recently as due on the 10 year mark but issue preceded this replacement Saw a forum about AVCS solenoids (with a banjo bolt, couple of gaskets and a filter) causing a similar issue but not sure whether this was specific to the car being in gear and it appeared to be causing much more severe symptoms. Took mine to a shop recently and they said they didn't really notice the issue (which was difficult to believe) so they didn't end up investigating further. Any suggestions?
  18. Haha updating the last post to say that after two and a half weeks of being down I got my car sorted last night. I decided to order an aftermarket turbo inlet from Pro Speed Racing in Australia. I also picked up the turbo elbow gasket and bought some intake gaskets too. My old intake gaskets were the ones where they basically glued some silicone rings to some shim-stock, so I got some thick Radium ones. Fitment of the new turbo inlet isn't ideal as I was having a battle getting some sharply milled barb fittings onto some old and stiff vacuum lines (mainly the PCV/breather ones). No one near me had the large PCV hose only the smaller stuff. Its a little crooked at the turbo but its engaged, clamped and not leaking as far as I can tell. Its nice to have a quiet car again. Those old little Corollas are loud AF at highway speeds.
  19. Afternoon team,

    im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 

    Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 

     

    Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.

     

    Cheers Shaun

  20. I cant find excatly where I got the clearances, but it was in a subaru service manual, what I wrote in my book Rotor tips std 0.04 - 0.14 max 0.18mm Outer rotor to body 0.02 - 0.07 max 0.15mm Rotor height to bolt on cover (can measure this with a staight edge) 0.1 - 0.175 max 0.2mm Mine was just under the std upper limit with no visable damage, so good enough for me They just did the work mentioned and it was $475, I checked the journals myself I just got the bill for my heads today, strip and clean, regrind/cut the valves, then reset the valve lash and install new stem seals on reassembly, and surfacing, boths head it was $1200 And Ive spent about $730 at rock auto for bearings, rings, timing kit, full gasket kit and a couple little extra bits! Hope thats helps
  21. Brand new OEM 12mm pump is $150 on amayama btw
  22. Just like you, this is meant to be a wee project for me....I already have another EZ Subaru to drive around and this is just my weekend car so I don't mind if it's off the road. ....what are the clearances you checked in regard to your oil pump? ....did the machine shop check your crank, crank journals, hardness test on blocks and heads, crack test pistons, check bores etc? ....or did they only do what you said, blocks cleaned and decked with a light hone? How much did your bill come to? I'm expecting the whole rebuild including parts and machine shop fees to come to a bit over two grand?
  23. Very inciteful. Thank you very much for your advice. I am still keen to go ahead with a rebuild, reuse all parts except perhaps find a good set of used pistons. The local machine shop/EJ specialist (Tony Flynn) said it's worth throwing the pistons as far as you can and replacing them with used ones....even if they have known history. He said he seen denotation events cause damage to pistons that still pass the crack test. I think I will used OEM gaskets and seals (which I buy from machine shop) and a set of ACL duraglide bearings. I think your right. Local engine builder said the later EJs have a 12mm pump. He says it's a must upgrade for older engines....go to Subaru and get a OEM 12mm pump off a newer engine, they bolt right onto old EJs....they like $700 though.
  24. Im in the process of rebuilding my first ej20 at the moment, its not done so I cant say what Ive done works, Im mentally prepared for it to pop on the first drive =] I ran a bearing, so I bought a donor motor and had the block cleaned and decked, with a light hone for the new rings, Im sticking with the stock pistons and rods that were in it, just new bearings and rings, and a complete gasket kit, all parts are from rockauto, and Im reusing my stock oil pump because the clearances were ok, Its just a project car so Ive been taking my time and its quite enjoyable, learning alot too, Im up to the head rebuild now, but ive passed that part to a recon shop, If i can help with any questions let me know!
  25. Hey everyone I have a 2000 rev b legacy was originally tiptronic automatic …. Now 5 speed manual … im having an issue only since its been manual converted I’m getting a code / intermittent check engine light for the idle speed valve being “stuck” however I’ve put multiple new iacv valves in … no change it’s running a manual ecu only thing yet to be hooked up is the cluster / speedo what could be causing this issue it’s very annoying …. Or if anyone’s that done the conversion in Auckland that knows what I’ve done wrong/need doing please help me out Cheers
  26. Regarding Q6. These cars already have a 12mm oil pump. I think its because along with supporting the usual turbos and bearings they have 4 AVCS solenoids to feed as well.
  27. Big week for the tinkering. Pulled the manifold today. Got the valve deleted, valve cut out and the pipe blocked. The PBMS plate and the exhaust gasket probably have 1mm overlap at the worst but I think it will hold The only casualties were a turbo inlet that was probably borked anyway and a turbo elbow gasket that broke from my carelessness. Ill inquire about those parts tomorrow, Ill probably just get an acceptible condition used OEM replacement inlet. I have also had poor luck with wheel bearings having had a sound quickly develop in the front, in the last week. Lifted one wheel, noisy spin, replaced hub. Test drive, sound persists but its just quiet enough with one new bearing to hear the other one get louder and sharper pitched in the turns you'd expect. Ill have to replace it tomorrow, its disassembled already. Im YOLOing it and going aftermarket with GSP ones from BNT for now more because I can walk in and buy them. Thank god I have a Corolla for emergencies. The big goal is to have it back together to cruise somewhere with Mrs Boltonator for Valentines day.
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