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Andy_Mac last won the day on July 12

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1,437 I have many leather bound books


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  1. How many k’s on it? Checking it has the latest software on it can't hurt. There is an update that seems to help with rough shifts. Some of the auto guys will be able to help out more i’m sure.
  2. The rear shocks on these quite commonly lose some of their gas and sag a bit. Firmer springs will help somewhat as they won't compress as much with a full crew in the back. It's a fairly aggressive set up you've got so I'm not surprised it rubs. It pokes out about 5mm further than mine and even on STI pinks I needed camber bushes to get enough clearance to not rub on the inner edge of the guard. Most people go for a 215 with that width and offset to give a small amount of stretch on the tyre to give extra space before anything touches. Your best option is to either get the rear guards rolled or get camber arms/bushes then decide whether the shocks are toast or springs are just too soft for that much weight. How even does the car sit front to back with no one in it?
  3. Leaking injector would be what i’d check for. Crank it over a bunch of times then pull the spark plugs and see if one is soaked. Doesn't a failing coolant temp sensor cause this issue too? Don't see much of it these days but it used to be a fairly common suggestion after cam, crank sensors
  4. Could try o2 sensor too. How high is the idle trim? Could be reg but isn't common. What colour are the injectors? I'd almost be tempted to say stuff it and just tweak the tune to get rid of it.
  5. Spares box seems terribly priced for a lot of things. Way way more than NST for the things i’ve been searching that both have listed. Plus you technically need to pay import tax if it's over a few hundred too.
  6. I've now had further tries with the fuel pump fuse removed, no luck. Negative battery cable disconnected and the jumper connected directly to the battery cables (read a review that tried that way which worked, plus it worked for Joker too), no luck. The two above methods at the same time, again no luck. To me the clicking means the relay is engaging so it has enough for that but just can't draw enough current to turn the motor over. I'll have a go with the usual jumper leads tomorrow to see if they can get it started the old fashioned way, or grab a new battery. Regardless of battery health, if it can't get me started in a situation like this it isn't a whole heap of use to me as it'll never work when it's most needed.
  7. Well it failed its first test. Battery tested at 3.5v 11.9v with the jumper attached. Everything else worked but just clicks when trying to turn over. Think I was hoping for a miracle here as usually even when hooked up to the van with jumper leads it needs 5ish mins of above idle connection before it would try crank. And this time the battery was even flatter than normal. Normally the dash and central locking works at least but this time it had nothing at all. Ohh and plus the fuel pump currently having no switch at all means it always runs at ~18A when the ignition’s on which makes jumping a heap harder too 😒
  8. Mechanic is probably the best bet at this point. Could try cranking the car over with the lines removed from the OCV’s to see if any oil is actually flowing through them. @sleepr was having some issues that replacing the cam wheels helped with. Don't think it applies to your issue in the same way though.
  9. Ended up grabbing the standard 600A Powerall one. The local H&F didn't have the Element or XL3 in stock which made the choice much easier. The 600A one with a speaker didn't really interest me for what it'll be used for. Will report back later tonight once I've had a go starting the Legacy. Was seriously considering the smaller 950A projecta one, Repco currently have it on sale for half price at $200.
  10. Ahh cool, that's the Element one which is only 400A peak. Had been considering the XL3 as it has the better clamps and should have enough juice for just about anything. Super overkill though. Think the element or the 600A standard one will be the way to go then. Both are 250 at hunting and fishing, way more at Ripco. Geez you've given that thing a rough time. Probably should have retired those leads quite some time ago haha
  11. Do you know what size your one is? Pretty set on one of the powerall ones but struggling to make the call on which size one to get. With the aftermarket ECU mine is quite slow to start so needs to have enough juice to crank a lot longer than usual. Powerall only gives peak amperage and haven't been able to find how fast that decays and what it decays to.
  12. The map isn't 14 across the board. It should be lower down low so that the ECU doesn't try correct too far. If it is asking for 14 and you're making 10 it'll be making corrections with the wastegate to try get there. So as soon as there is enough exhaust gas to make 14 it'll overshoot for a second until it can open the wastegate enough to drop the boost back down. This is super common for cars with free flowing intakes/exhausts on the stock tune, sometimes even without those mods. How is you IAM and LV looking now?
  13. That's exactly the answer I was expecting. The size and form factor makes them seem too good to be true. The powerall one’s claim they can do multiple vehicles from one charge and sit for 6-12months without draining enough to hinder use
  14. Have any of you got one of the many small body portable lithium jumpstarters? The 400-600A ones which claim can start multiple cars from a single charge. I've been thinking about getting one recently since the car is quite often flat from not being driven. They all seem rather small and light duty for the power they claim they can output which has me wondering if they're just a gimmick or not. They seem to review well but even looking at the size of the jumper cables doesn't exactly give confidence in them. Powerall seems to be the brand to get from my limited research so far.
  15. So that is with continuous driving? Should definitely be advance showing up if the ocv duty is jumping up that high.