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Andy_Mac

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Andy_Mac last won the day on March 6

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  1. Is it like a single knock as something moves forward when you brake or a repeated knock/clunk when doing so?
  2. yea I just unbolted the mani but left everything attached so it could move a bit to make life easier. I’d definitely do mani before uppipe on one of these cars
  3. you can leave that stainless pipe in place and just bolt the blank piece onto the pipe flange. It ends up just under the turbo and way easier than ditching the whole thing unless you plan to have the uppipe off anyway. Everything in front of that point can be fully deleted. Remember to keep atleast part of the valve with more pins as it has your atmo sensor in it. Pretty sure from memory it’s that one closer to the turbo
  4. Yea rumour seems to be they’ll all be phased out progressively by the end of the year but hopefully that isn’t actually the case. NPD would be nice if stations were better scattered. Maybe 95 and mixed in E isn’t such a bad idea
  5. Heard one next to one of the race tracks had ditched it atleast, can’t remember if was supply or demand related
  6. Best way is to find part numbers is to chuck your chassis number into partsouq.com You can find it on Carjam or the Vin plate
  7. Yea i’d looked into powertune too but had never seen anyone doing odo which i assume is legally needed. Looks like a heap of work to get everything running as you want based on some of the questions rhat pop up on the powertune fb group. What about Haltech? The ic-7 is pretty reasonably priced and would possibly be better suited, or even the aim street dash that gives indicators amd engine light stuff on the side of the frame rather than just on the display
  8. Is the goal to replace the factory cluster? If so you’re a bit more limited in what will do all the factory stuff like indicators and odo and whatnot Emtron do a real nice 10inch one, it’s only like 9 grand
  9. pretty sure that age is fully tunable as it is but isn’t in the same league as tuning with a link, especially if you get a big intake and want to go speed density yea there were a few badged like that but not the norm atleast
  10. The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably
  11. Can’t remember when the changeover was to phase 2 stuff but v3 may not match manifold bolt spacing too. But yea stay with the v7 ones if possible. You won’t need anything too fancy at that power level unless you want to put a link in and go v7 sti heads with intake avcs.
  12. The block won’t be quite as strong from the get go as it’ll be open deck design but half the turbo ones out there are like that too. The block itself is simple but for heads you’d want to stay with the same ones to keep sensor stuff compatible without a heap more work on wiring. 400hp is probably pushing it a bit for reliability of an open deck block if it’ll be driven hard. Unless you’re getting the non turbo one free it’s possibly still worth trying to get hold of a blown 207 to build up
  13. Weight reduction mod, may help with engine bay heat too apparently 🤔
  14. it’ll have some cooling but without crossing over the core and short cycling it won’t be as effective as it could be. Plus if your paying big money for a shop to do it you’d expect them to atleast do it the way it is supposed to be. Common sense would say that with tiny inlet restrictors the drain ‘should’ be perfectly fine with something only slightly bigger but in reality it doesn’t seem to work out like that. I’ve had thorough talks with Alltech about it and they even think 5/8 ID hose is on the small size and that 3/4 is the correct way to go. Pretty sure even borg warner have come out and said that the small bore thread in option with small hose won’t often be enough. I’ve got a new cartridge for mine coming next year with the intention of proving once and for all whether the turbo is damaged somewhat or whether it is feed/drain related
  15. Possibly also had a dry sump on the engine since racecar so that removes the size issue. And yea standard is 5/8 @Gripless surely at some point though it's spinning slow enough to not get all frothy and whatnot and kinda drip down rather than flicking all over the place
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