Andy_Mac

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Andy_Mac last won the day on September 14

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About Andy_Mac

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  1. Yep. Always interested in that kind of stuff
  2. KM’s are pretty low to have already killed the sensor. Plus doubt a filter change would instantly stuff it. Have you got any logging gear? Does it feel sluggish in general or just that it’s low on boost? Resetting the ECU to get rid of any currently learnt values is probably a good start
  3. Should go genuine for cambelt parts. Could offer to make up the cost difference between the aftermarket and genuine parts.
  4. One of the previous tuners was Aussie Matt/Kido tune. He’s well known for being the guy who can do whatever you ask, does some cool S***, just not in a timely fashion. He does know his S*** backwards and was the one that pinpointed the problem, tried coding in new tables and whatnot just never managed to fully solve it. I really have just given up on the idea at this point and am just keen to get a Link and let it be a thing of the past.
  5. Depending on how long they take for install I wouldn't say it's that bad for dealer prices.
  6. Weird. I just avoid the inbuilt search anyway and just do a Google search with ClubSUB.org.nz as the first word which always works perfectly.
  7. Xtreme or Fury seem to be the ones to go for for e-throttle with Fury being only $250 more on the NZEFI site so seems like a no-brainer. It had crossed my mind but unsure if there is anything else that isn't controllable which just hasn't cropped up due to the boost control issues. To be frank I'm just completely over the issues around the stock ECU. Stock one's are fine until issues like this arise and then the people fully clued up are few and far between, with support from software developers being virtually nonexistent. I could spend some serious time and money testing and playing around with different hardware and maybe in the end get a positive result or just fork out a decent chunk now and never have any issues again.
  8. I'm down in Tauranga so not too far. No control of boost was the main issue. Nothing you could do ever changed how it behaved in any way. Logging WGDC shows it consistently wanting 30+ percent from under 3k even when at a couple of PSI which i’m thinking is why it's so slow to spool. No changes to any tables help resolve this at all. The first tuner concluded the def was pointing to incorrect tables
  9. Cool. Cheers for that. Any reason to get the separate can lambda over a Fury with built in o2 functionality? Looks to be cheaper going that way than the separate module What's the Denso part number on your one? Main issue is needing to get ECU’s coded to the immobilizer and all that which isn't all that cheap either
  10. Others have had perfect results with other facelift ECU’s so it seems to be just mine that's a dog. Could try a different year ECU but that's also a lot of effort to get sorted. ECUTEK software might resolve things but again it’s another 50/50 call that might backfire. The US ECU wouldn't be any good as it doesn't allow for DAVCS which I plan on keeping. Asked Haltech a while back and they said they have no plan to do anything with the facelift model at this time. I feel i’ve exhausted all other avenue’s to sort this at this point really.
  11. The justification in my case is that none of the tuners that have had a go on it can get it to do what it is supposed to. Some parameters can be changed but others when changed have no effect. Supposedly there is an issue with the def file for my ECU with the open source programs. Have also tried ECUEdit which didn't make things any better either. If the ECU did as it should i’d happily stay stock.
  12. Was talking to Tony about that one a few weeks back. From what he said there was still quite a few things that needed to be decoded so wasn't a fully working install yet. Engine stuff was all sorted but some of the dash and bits like that weren’t. Plus that one was prefacelift where mine is a facelift which seems to add a bit more complexity. Would rather not be the guinea pig footing the bill for that kind of experimental/investigational work since it could very easily blow out spectacularly.
  13. Getting to the serious end of how i'm actually going to do this after mucking around putting it off for years so figure i'd chuck my thoughts up so those of you more familiar with aftermarket ECU's can potentially set me right. Have been slowly going through wiring diagrams and confirming wire colours/pin locations against my car at the ECU, Engine bay connector and plugs themselves since Subaru didn't bother to keep the colours the same at the Engine bay connector. At this point my main concern is deciding what the Link is going to have for it's inputs and outputs. The aim is to 'try' do a tidy job similar to what @gotasuby has done with an in-between loom where some wires go straight through to the stock ECU, some to both and some only to the Link. Have got a spare ECU and ECU loom with plugs to do this. I'm aiming to have most inputs still going back to the stock ECU as well as the required ones going to the Link so that the tablet running BTSSM will still function off the OBD2 port. Later on down the track i'm going to look into using the SI-Drive knob as a map switcher but want to keep things simple for now. This list is a starting point so i'm sure there will be a few things I haven't thought of. Inputs Crank position Knock Coolant temp Oil pressure switch - stock one? Oil temp TPS - part of e-throttle? MAP - seperate, link only maybe? RPM Cam positions x 4 Outputs Injectors x4 Coils x4 E-throttle OCV x4 Boost solenoid Fuel pump control - maybe?
  14. Had a visit from Mr courier man with a few new bits to go onto the car in the near future. Radium AOS from @mlracing.co.nz and a STI shiftknob from @Individualities
  15. Haven't seen the brochure myself but @Jono24 has said it doesn't.