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Everything posted by IZichard

  1. Unless it can be pointed to a specific line/s in the VIRM that excludes it then it should be a pass. I have read through the stop light and tail section a couple times now and I don’t see anything that excludes LED bulbs for tail/stop lights.
  2. You can have them provided that they don't do any of these things: Stop lamps (Reasons for rejection) 14. A lamp emits a light that is: a) not substantially red, or b) not diffuse, or c) not projected to the rear, or d) not approximately equal in intensity from the other lamp in a pair, or e) not bright enough to produce a light that is visible from 100m in normal daylight, eg due to modification, deterioration, dirt or an incorrect light source, or f) is altered, eg due to damage or modification. Link Tail lamps (Reasons for rejection) 12. When switched on, a lamp emits a light that is: a) not substantially red, or b) not diffuse, or c) not projected to the rear, or d) not approximately equal in colour or intensity from that of the other lamp in a pair, or e) not steady, or f) not bright enough to be visible from 200m in normal darkness, eg due to modification, deterioration, dirt or an incorrect light source, or g) is altered, eg due to damage or modification. Link There is nothing I can find in the VIRM that says you can't have them. The recent law change made the modification of headlamps to use a different kind of bulb illegal (eg HID or LED bulbs in an incandescent housing). LInk
  3. You could get a rage downpipe from autobend, you would probably have to get the rear flange slightly modified to fit your cat back. Page 50 in this catalogue. https://view.publitas.com/autobend/sports-systems/page/52-53
  4. Sounds like it is freeboosting, ie no boost control. Check vacuum line to the wastegate is not split, also any of the other vacuum lines to the boost solenoid. Check the wastegate can be pushed opened by hand if you push the rod (will take a fair effort because of the spring). Could be caused by something else but that is a good place to start.
  5. Hey, welcome to the club! You could get an anycar unit. Best to read about it for yourself to make sure it is compatible since I haven’t installed one of these myself. I believe this will allow you to connect your phone via Bluetooth to the factory macintosh radio. They plug into the back of the radio and allow for connection with aux or Bluetooth through the factory buttons on the radio. https://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/anycar-1080b-bluetooth-usb-sd-aux-for-clarion-subaru-mcintosh-suzuki-with-easy-finance-1386 I’m sure someone who owns one of these cars and has more knowledge than me will chime in.
  6. Whipped up an extinguisher bracket for the other car today. Just did the classic seat bolt mount style with a piece of flat bar that I remember reading about on here ages ago. Here’s hoping I never have to use it.
  7. GC kit. The banjo fittings on the brembo calipers are the same size as the Sumitomo 4 pot calipers. Some brake lines have a little locating leg, which isn’t used but doesn’t get in the way either. Here is a GC8 line on a brembo caliper.
  8. Usually aftermarket lines come with a generic banjo fitting at the caliper end so they would fit any Subaru caliper (The OEM one has a little leg to stop it spinning). GC has a different bracket on the front struts to GD. GC has a small metal clip and GD bolts onto the strut. I’m sure the banjo is the same in the back but I can’t recall if there is a difference in the bracket. You most likely want a GC kit unless you have changed the front struts to a GD style coilover or something.
  9. Nice one mate! Is that the ej205 you were talking about or the original engine?
  10. Have a read for yourself. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/rearward-facing-position-lamps That is for tail lamps, I can’t see any reason for rejection. The criteria they would need to meet to justify a failure. a) not substantially red, or b) not diffuse, or c) not projected to the rear, or d) not approximately equal in colour or intensity from that of the other lamp in a pair, or e) not steady, or f) not bright enough to be visible from 200m in normal darkness, eg due to modification, deterioration, dirt or an incorrect light source, or g) is altered, eg due to damage or modification. The only difficult one is g) but that is unbelievably vague. I doubt you would have any issues with LED tail light bulbs. Here is the law on stop lamps https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/stop-lamps Have a read through this too but it says much of the same and doesn’t specify LED bulbs as an issue. Remember the complete VIRM is freely accessible for everyone so if your ever unsure on something or feel an inspector has failed without reason then it is good to have a read through it. Hope that helps
  11. Noooooo.... Surely it is just a database/search issue **crosses fingers** I was using it just two days ago and it was sweet. I have an account with all the vins I regularly use saved in the "garage" but it doesn't work from their anymore either. Hopefully it comes back in the new year as I had a big order of things I still need for my new engine that I was hoping to get before the GST import changes came in.
  12. Can't comment on that one sorry, I've never driven a DCCD box before. Maybe @GC8E2DD or @YoungOne could shed some light.
  13. Good luck on the search! They won’t be getting cheaper anytime soon, especially with the Americans/Aussies getting more rights to import them. This may be of use to you as it can tell you the specifics of each version, it’s weight, options, colours and which turbo, engine and transmission it was fitted with. https://www.type-ra.com/impreza-timeline/
  14. Personally I have always felt that the interior in the v4,5,6 is a huge improvement over the older cars. I also think they have a better looking front end with the updated scoop/grills on the bonnet. The engine layout is also more similar to the more modern wrx/stis with the turbo inlet pipe running under the intake manifold. That is just my opinion. Mostly it is just personal preference between the versions as it is fundementally the same chassis with minor revisions. Be careful when buying to check for developing rust around the front/rear windscreen, the boot and around the rear wheel arch area. Many of the imports have come front rusty areas of japan and can be vunerable in these areas. Are you buying it to drive it and put ks on it or as more of a weekend/collector? There are heaps of different options (ra, v-limited, 555) if you want something a little more ‘special.’
  15. Welcome to the forum! Is it a bugeye? I’ve heard of unmodified bugeye wrxs comfortably doing 300k it really depends on the previous owners. If it is warmed up, run on the correct fuel, serviced regularly and not thrashed at every traffic light the ej205 turbo is reliable. There are a few small maintainable items that Subaru’s require over time but they really don’t ‘break down’ often in stock form. (Rocker cover gaskets, timing belts etc) If there are signs it has been previously modified poorly, (ie. boost tap, podfilter) then I would steer clear. If like you said the previous owners had it for 4 and 5 years and they have service history then I would say it is a fairly safe buy. Always worth getting it checked over by a Subaru specialist mechanic before buying if you don’t know what to look for yourself. Good luck!
  16. I’ve also considered getting one. Just to defrost the car in winter without having to go outside. Also means you can have the car warming up in the driveway without the risk of someone getting in and driving away with it.
  17. There aren’t many new Subaru owners on this forum unfortunately, so I doubt you will find anyone who has. You are probably best taking it back to the dealer since it will most likely be under warranty for that type of issue. If if you want to investigate yourself then I would start by checking the fuses if it shows no sign of getting power. Best of luck with it
  18. https://i.stuff.co.nz/national/crime/108815051/gone-in-60-seconds-gang-of-car-thieves-steal-classic-cars?cid=facebook.ad Looks like this vehicle was found recently, was also being used to commit other crimes. 😒
  19. I swear I saw you rip a cheeky handbrake on turn in at one point!
  20. Do you have the sheet with all the times from the grasskhana @Joker? I’m curious what the times from individual runs turned out to be. Also to add to Jokers previous post... Cam won the Grasskhana and the Kelford Cams voucher. And I came 3rd (or maybe second?) and scored a whiteline voucher 😁
  21. Here is a link to an small album I made to show the difference in quality between GMB and genuine subaru water pumps. The impeller design is less efficient on the GMB and the overall casting quality is much worse. I alway go with genuine timing gear. https://imgur.com/a/RQFuIu2
  22. It is called an Anti Lift Kit for a reason 😉 Edit: “Whiteline Anti Lift Kits are primarily designed to improve traction and cornering grip under power. By increasing static caster and improving front end geometry the new alloy mounts coupled with low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response and reduce understeer.”
  23. In the kit there is supposed to be a series of spacers that moves that U brace down and allows clearance. Maybe you were given the kit for a GC/GF that wouldn’t include the spacers. You can see one of the spacers on the left of this picture, there are supposed to be 6 or 8 in total.
  24. The torque spec for the big nut is fairly high iirc. Should say in the ALK box what the recommended torque is. If you have a helper available you should get them to bounce the car while you listen underneath. Then at least you can be sure which point is the source of the noise.
  25. You should only need to do the front bush if you already did the ALK. Drive the car up onto some blocks, crack the two front bolts loose. Then bounce the front of the car up and down a couple times and re-tighten, should be sweet.