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Everything posted by pl0x

  1. Bugger, as I had planned on testing a SS one also. What's the difference? vband outlet length or slightly offset?
  2. Agree'd but possibly these TS turbine housings are just too restrictive on Subaru engines. Maybe there is a reason efr are T4 twin scroll. I think the spool is about right considering you've gone up a size or two in turbine housing (from what I've read 1.01 TS is roughly equivalent to 0.9 SS). Would be interesting, maybe one bank has higher pressure from one of the "scrolls" being too restrictive.
  3. As I was pulling my engine apart I spotted mine wasn't divided the whole way when it was made. Figured it would be effectively the same spool up losses to SS. Didn't think it would be any worse than SS anyway. Have you heard/seen/read otherwise? I'm thinking the same.
  4. So only thing changed are headers (to twin scroll legacy headers?) and turbine housing? More boost, less power definitely seems like more restriction. Sounds similar to mine, dyno looks about the same too except mines even more choked up top (0.91 TS). Maybe I should switch to a 0.83 SS housing to test.
  5. Legacy 6sp (and v11 onwards) don't have speedo drive outputs Mates got one from a ez30 6sp with diff, driveshaft, axles and shifter sitting on trademe for $1400, and has been for a long time, crazy cheap imo. I'd guess most people don't want the hassle of no speedo drive from the box (I don't think thats an issue for other bp/bl legacys though).
  6. Be interested to see these results, and how it's going to be tested. Size has a large effect on flow & pressure drop Agreed. ITL are good & cheap cores imo
  7. I assume you can see the slave and clutch fork moving?
  8. Redline core can be average, piping is piping. Expect to modify what ever piping kit you get, as mentioned. TL Intercooler cores seem to be good and well rated by all, I'd be looking for or making a piping kit and getting an ITL core.
  9. What intake manifold are you using? Flipped? Have you looked at the n/a short and longer runner manifolds (best factory flowing).
  10. I'll be going for the Athena HG (fire ring) when I fit my dual avcs heads. Turbo - I've always said if I was going for a completely new set up I'd go EFR as they have inbuilt WG & BOV so save the extra cost. With that in mind, they have the turbine wheel failure issue (especially on the smaller turbos which i'd be looking at) so need a speed sensor and some ecu smarts so it can't over speed. Partsouq has a complete engine seal kit which could be worth looking into. When looking for the seals I need for the head swap I went onto ebay and found the "head gasket kits" which listed all the required parts, grabbed parts that suited. Someone on ebay might have a rebuild seal kit that you could copy.
  11. General rule is driveshaft from the same model with the same type of gearbox are the same length i.e. all 5 speed gc8's are the same length. There are different bolt pattern diff/driveshaft flanges, I'm not sure what causes these to change, they may differ between r160 (non sti diff) and r180 (sti diff) so could be something to check.
  12. nzefi do them for an alright price if you don't need the connector kits
  13. Aren't these legacys common for front CV's? although you'd think you could feel it. Apparently you can take them out and swap the sides
  14. Fairly sure the factory yellows are 440cc @ 80% IDC and 550cc @ 100% IDC. You can get aftermarket 880cc side feeds. What are your power goals?, if you want factory "new" injectors i'd have thought 2nd hand side feed yellows would be cheap and get them cleaned/flow tested
  15. Hadn't really considered the venturi in my suggested tests above. It would be nice to get some tests on if it is the return line being too restrictive, or heat from returned fuel entering the cradle, or a combo. You're right though, considering the venturi it gets close to the point of CBF testing and just pay to know a bolt in part is going to solve it.
  16. Do we know what in the factory hanger creates the restriction? Sounds like a combo of heat and restriction to me
  17. @Niran Did your's show issues specifically when on the dyno after a number of runs (heat related), or did it at idle also? It would be interesting to see a test of: Removing the cradle altogether and just having the hanger (Some of the older models didn't have cradles, mine use to fuel surge under 1/4 tank on track. Keep it above half if it's a street car that goes to the track?). Keeping the factory cradle but modifying to allow more fuel flow through (again may allow more surge issues but fine for a street car). Keep factory cradle and route the return out of the cradle
  18. Is it just me or is there smoke coming from somewhere at 21-22 seconds? Sounds kind of like an exhaust leak.
  19. vf38 are the ones that crap out a lot, TD04 twin scroll variant are ok Yea ID of legacy is smaller
  20. pl0x

    Leadfoot 2019

    Yea, wouldn't want to put it up in the main viewing area over the bridge. Just the view from the "good" parking last year was pretty good and saw a few people watch from there, wouldn't be a bad spot if you could put up some shade but think we'll leave it.
  21. pl0x

    Leadfoot 2019

    Me and a few mates are heading up Sat. Should be 6 or so cars, hopefully we'll get let into the good parking . Are you allowed to take gazebos? even if it's to put in the good parking area. Looks like it's going to be FFFing hot. Edit: Looking at the event info, that's a no
  22. Is this what you are after? Probably excessive to import one brake clip but Partsouq have them for $2.38NZD + shipping as one option
  23. I assume you are on factory boost control and there isn't a boost tap somewhere? On factory boost control you shouldn't be close to hitting boost cut, so i'd assume a fault somewhere, possibly a leak in the vac lines between turbo/boost controller/waste gate. As a test, try run waste gate pressure (Vac line direct from turbo to waste gate). Manual boost control/boost taps generally cause spikes but could work as a cheap fix
  24. Black is generally unburnt fuel, could be a bit rich on cold start. Mine burns oil (bluey/white smoke) on first start up after sitting for a few weeks/months, with VTA catch can. I doubt it's blowby but you could un-plumb it from the intake and test. and leave it un-plumbed, only thing you need it plumbed in is for cert I believe. I need to run my vent to under the car rather than next to the cabin air inlet .
  25. Fairly sure the GC auto spray was pretty basic, something like based on throttle position (which is pretty useless imo). If you're getting it tuned on a link or the likes, you could hook the sprayer control to an ecu output and have the ecu control it based on just about anything. I would have thought air intake temp and speed would be a good place to start?