BeastGRB

Here I thought it was 14-15PSI stock?

If you are trying to aim for that mid-high 200kw I suggest to do injectors which means if you are going for a re-tune it's basically more or less a new tune due to the change of fuel system; as I've been told anyways so full price for a tune ofcourse depends on who you go to. I got mine changed to 875cc. I also upgraded the turbo and it made more power and also as what you wanted it holds it's boost and does not taper off which is what your experiencing. From start of full boost to rev limit it does not taper due to the turbo in my case. I know some people have upgraded their stock wastegate spring to aftermarket to make it last a tad longer in the high rpm range but pretty sure it still falls off. Here's my dyno graph if you look at the bottom graph it holds that 22PSI quite well.

What's your current supporting mods as of now & most important your budget? For my V11 it ended being along the lines of 7K or so for the turbo upgrade including tune, supporting mods etc...

Flat shifting does not apply to autos. "Flat-foot Shifting. FLAT-FOOT SHIFTING allows you to keep your foot flat on the accelerator while changing gear, so as to minimise gearchange time and keep engine speed and torque up in preparation for the next gear. It is also possible to adjust the torque to maximise power when engaging the next gear."

Hmm, possibly. Quite a drive tho + sorting out staying in overnight.

Sold the Volks that was on my car was hoping to put it on the trusty daily Honda but funds were tight. Long awaited rims and tyres have finally arrived after much wait. Fitment is on point rubs at the front but nothing a tiny bit of camber plus fender rolling won't fix.

They are now called Work Emotion D9'rs

Yeah, that's exactly what I've heard as well being JDM the most strongest/reliable way. They do rev to 8K RPM and from knowledge V11's are semi-forged.

Was yours the 2.0L or 2.5L? From what I've heard most of the rebuilt ones have been the 2.5L engines. I'm currently at 114k's from memory on a bigger turbo & unopened engine. Cylinder leak down test came to a very good result. Also cylinder tested PSI came to between 1-3PSI difference across 4 cylinders.

Quite true. I could for sure feel the difference from initial launch to top end run. If they took your EBCS then from my guess they have set your High & Low boost settings via your Throttle Response modes (Intelligent, Sport,Sport #) - I have the same thing as I wanted to drive in low boost 90% of the time. That's a really good outcome from a stock turbo and I'm only pushing close to 250kW in mine. By chance are you rocking a 3" Turbo back exhaust? That's a hella lot of $$ for doing 2 tunes.

+1 ^ Yep, a buffer, cutting compound and headlight sealer is what I did. I was tired of looking at my misaligned bumper but since it was off I decided to freshen the headlights up a bit as well. Came out quite well. I did not expect to do this and wanted to tint my front headlights as well so it does not fog up in the future but oh well.

I ended up with getting the Scarles carbon fibre one. Originally I opted for Redline Performance VF but it looked really bad and did not fully cover the turbo exhaust housing. With this beanie it made putting it on much harder due to size of turbo; got there in the end but a lot of frustration lol. Rubs a little on the actuator gate lever but nothing that would tear the fabric to pieces.

From what I've read on some Subaru Sti cars that it doesn't like Mobil 1 oil much.

5L Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% Synthetic. Get a genuine Subaru filter/sump plug washer is optional. If you go through with Jacky he will sell you 5L Motul H-tech 100 10w-40.

Cheers Im trying to retrace what I did over the weekend haha to remember if I have seen ya. Was it midnight Sat?

Have you guys heard of Flossy? I have one on my car and it's awesome. From experience and memory it doesn't get hot, a very good feel + grip wise almost feels like a rubberized coating on top of the steel material used. Reverse cut out, weighted and no plastic delrin. Downside it's from America + It's expensive for a piece of metal but totally worth it imo. https://www.shopflossy.com/collections/shift-knobs/products/redhead-shorty-6-speed

Possibly a video?

Hahaha, for sure. Funnily enough I live close to Botany where the next Clubsub meet will be held at :).

Nah won't cost much since PBMS charge an hourly rate for tuning. I see myself spending $1.5-2K on TB exhaust, and another $2K on FMIC to make the retune worth while. $3.5-4K of cash would get a nice track hack to learn to race in. With this setup I can definitely see 270kW-280kW potential as much as I'd love to push that much a mate of mine changed my mind to stick with 260kW max so for the $$ being spent for 15kW is not worth while. I'm already 2K+ over my budget. End thoughts though; your right in saying that power isn't everything. Drive home was amazing. Boost carries on like a train and performs similarly to a stock VF in regards to boost spool. A very nice subtle upgrade from a stock turbo.

Yeah, It is. I thought I was going to still achieve my goal of 260kW with a 2.5" exhaust but I guess not. Oh well. If I do get a 3" TB exhaust I know I'd be incline to get a FMIC as well and get a retune but that's going way above my initial budget; would rather invest into another project instead.

So final output. High Boost 22psi: 247kW 902Nm Low Boost 14psi; 201kW 773Nm Not sure how to convert torque figures. Spools up around the 3500 mark and full boost around 4250RPM. Holds boost till redline; doesn't taper off. Restrictive components in my car - exhaust not being 3" and TMIC. I'd probably move onto aesthetics side of things now and buy another project car; thinking of a MK1 mx5 or a DC2R/CL7R.

Flat Carbon for sure.

Personally I would choose the JDM 2.0L option. I have heard of cases where most of the ringland issues are struck on the 2.5L especially in USA as most of their Subarus are 2.5L which most horror stories come from when you search on the net not saying it does not happen to the JDM 2.0L either. That was enough to scare me for a year or two. I've heard that the V11 Engines aren't as strong as the V7 engines. I'm not entirely sure if V7 and V8 has the same drive train if it does then V7/V8 will be the strongest out of all I believe. I haven't personally seen cruise control on a GVB but I have seen steering wheel buttons for the stereo which controls the factory Stereo system. I've seen people change the factory system and was still able to use the factory wheel buttons (Forgot how they accomplished this). Honestly it's luck of the draw on this always a give and take with some cars. Definitely no GPS for sure unless an aftermarket stereo has been fitted. Well the factory sound system is good enough for my needs but it's no top of the line bose speakers. I did plan on upgrading my speakers but just never got around to it. Two door card speakers front and rear. GRB and GVB have similar interior design and my GRB has tweeters which are the speakers adjacent to mirrors. I don't really see that much of an impact having those factory tweeters tbh IMO; JDM is still my 1st option.

Looks like the engine and drive train is untouched. I was talking to another guy as I wanted to buy the latest shape STI's and he told me to just buy his GRB as the engine is pretty much all the same except the exterior changing. Are you going for 2.0 or 2.5L? http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/subaru-wrx-sti-review-2011-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-drive

It's that badly priced? It was actually the cheapest I could get. All the connections I have can't get it cheaper because they can't get a discount on Motul oils. If my memory serves me right PBMS had it for like $70 Inc GST I think but driving down there and going back up would prove to be the same ish to $90 for 5L. My car prev had Motul H-tech 100 10-40w which was a little bit cheaper coming to to like $75-$80 I think. All up really I spent $120 give/take I didn't really think much into it as I use to pay around $70-80 for genuine oil and filter for my Honda and that's on a 30% discount too.