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Omsin last won the day on October 15

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  1. Don’t get whiteline bushes, go for superpro or Group N (factory Subaru bushes with hardened rubber made for rally spec cars). Whiteline is ok but you’ll probably have less trouble if you go for the other two.
  2. Yes never go SOFT, but in comparison to track setups it’s good to be near factory settings for the road. For example, on some bikes you can adjust the preload on the rear shock on a sports bike, setting this one thing too hard means there is very little give and the force will go through the bike and not the shock and either give you a good jolt and wobble the bike or cause the tyre to break traction. Too soft and you pogo or there’s moments where there’s very little weight on the rear wheel I have both coilovers and upgraded sways. Halfway through changing out bushes and also ticked off quite a bit of chassis bracing on my car 😁. My experience so far -stiff sway bars on stock suspension -one position softer on sway bars with stiffer coilovers
  3. Riding sports bikes I can definitely say it’s better to be soft than too hard. Any little bump would upset the bike. Struts are supposed to absorb bumps in the road. The thing upgraded coilovers are supposed to offer is improved rebound and compression (individually adjustable that is) while not getting too hot or aerating the shock fluid.
  4. Independent roll control at each corner by using coilovers doesn’t address the other issue which occurs during hard cornering, that is the wheel itself trying to roll under itself from lateral force and creating less than ideal wheel alignment. Sway bars help keep the wheel in place while also limiting body roll, the drawback with this is that you lose wheel independence and whatever happens to one wheel more or less happens to the other to some degree. I can’t remember clearly but I recall an episode of Top gear or the Grand tour where they were driving a new Mclaren at the time and one of the key features was independent wheel control ? They attributed this to the tremendous handling ability of the car, each wheel was completely independent (power delivery, movement etc?) edit: 4 wheel independent steering
  5. The track is usually nice a smooth, no pot holes, dips etc - good scenario for suspension, no sudden change in force i.e hitting a pot hole or one wheel getting stuck in a groove and pulling the car in a different direction causing random movement in the arms etc) Road: all sorts of s*** surfaces, suspension components are being pushed and pulled in all sorts of directions - in this situation I would not want soft bushes allowing multiple components to move around at weird angles. A car can be made to go straight really well. A car can be made to corner really well. Doing both is hard and where compromise is needed (or a big wallet and R&D team) Sway bars are good on a level road, going over bumps can cause the car to act very squirmy - but generally an upgraded sway bar makes the car feel more solid. Bushes if they are too soft and have a lot of play can mean that the alignment can changes a few degrees under force. I experienced first hand when I was working on my car. I took the rear coilovers off the rear control arm to make adjustments to my sway bar etc, to get them back in I had to push the tyres in/out to get the bolts to line back up, and it was amazing to see how much the tyre would flex on certain angles as i pushed it (soft control arm / toe bushes). Bushes are generally there to isolate vibration and provide cushioning so the ride is improved. You don't want movement in these places, but for the general public you don't want noise and vibration on a road car. Coilovers have their place when they are designed well and tested.
  6. Wrapped the headunit surround. Not sure if I like it, might remove and spray paint black instead
  7. How would you tell when the sway bar bushes fail? Have you got their endlinks too?
  8. What about SuperPro suspension bushings etc @Niran I sold the Whiteline ALK I had bought and I was just about to order the SuperPro version, if they can get a really good deal on the Superpro stuff I would actually be interested in buying the whole replacement arms through PBMS instead 😁
  9. Anyone else skim read this and think it said flatmates wanted?
  10. Depends on the final price but here’s my list: Invidia Downpipe Catted Divorced Wastegate w/ 2 Bungs MODEL # INVHS08SW1DOC Invidia Uppipe MODEL # INVHS02SW1UPP Invidia 3in Downpipe to 2.5in Exhaust Adapter MODEL # INVHS02SWIAPD Could also need a 3 port boost control solenoid ( I’ve only found Grimmspeed tho) and a silicone turbo inlet hose. Can PBMS also do a super special price for tuning (reflash 2011 WRX ecu) after ordering said parts in the group buy? 😁😁😁
  11. Might need to refill the NOS bottles before anything happens
  12. Push and hold them maybe? I’ve had something similar in the past and they ended up being lights in the front footwell. I’ve done something similar for reversing camera (was easier to tap into a constant 12v than to muck around with soldering into the reverse light). The one by ignition could be to kill the key in ignition beep when you have the door open? The other could possibly be to override traction control properly (handy when you’re off-road) They definitely aren’t factory switches, I’d assume they are either internal or external lights somewhere. I don’t know about you but I’d enjoy trying to find out what they do, nice little Easter egg you have to find haha
  13. Could you upload a photo of the cable / leak?
  14. RTV sealant? Get the goo in between each wire