Omsin

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Omsin last won the day on August 18

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About Omsin

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  1. You could remove the trim around the bottom of the windscreen under the plastic trim and check you don’t have any crap built up, I’m pretty sure that’s where the air feeds into the filter?
  2. Infinity kappa is a step up from reference I can vouch for them
  3. Give it a go and let me know how it turns out, I’m looking at doing a layer over foam on the rest of the car. Even just doing a simple tap test you can see how well foam stops noise transferring on hollow metal (after butyl mat has been layered)
  4. Go to Partsouq.com enter your vin, see if they have cams in stock. Cheapest parts supplier for oem almost every time. Shipping is fast
  5. 10mm gap is better than cutting the screen off on the sides. There’s a few ways to cover it up, foam around the sides, sheet of black plastic cut to size. Depends how good you are with your hands
  6. @Gripless is it closed cell foam or open? would just need a light adhesive to stick it on if it checks out
  7. Yeah it’s more about getting the frame to tidy up the gap left from the factory setup once removed, there will be options out there for using a similar bracket and using your own unit
  8. NZ$ 400 51% Off | 8 inch navigator Quad core car multimedia player intelligent HD capacitive screen audio video Handfree DVD for Subaru Legacy https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/m90mqW6Er
  9. You could glue some wrap to a piece of something rigid and attach it behind the hole around the edges
  10. @Abomb did the battery tie down improve cornering? Been thinking of getting one myself to help with corner entry
  11. On stock suspension (a lot of shock travel) I found the biggest difference when I went from the middle hole to the closest hole (Hardest setting). Sway bar settings go out the window when you change the factory struts/springs though. Big advantage of adjustable end links is taking out pre load so the bar can work how it’s designed to. Setting up corners is a lot smoother and you can feel a gradual resistance building up. If it’s already carrying tension you can get all sorts of weird handling going on and a really bad time on bumpy roads as the bar becomes “snappy” loading up more and unloading when the endlinks move with the control arm
  12. @Gripless Is your car JDM or aus/nz new?
  13. What does his even mean, I got the letter a few weeks ago but haven’t called them yet lol
  14. A lot better, it actually isn't hard to strip the car apart, I think it could be done in an hour if you know how stuff comes apart. The tedious part is cutting and laying out the sound deadening, but could be done in a single day if you're committed. I'm thinking of going over it again with the foam from Jay Car just to make it even quieter again haha, just need to touch up some parts in the boot because I ran out.. turns out you need a lot more than a 6mx45cm roll - probably closer to 10m x45cm required.
  15. Oil dilutes the octane rating. Oil is actually more like a dense vapor, instead of clean air mixing with fuel you have a oily vapor burning with fuel. Remove the oil, you now have clean air - cleaner burn. HOWEVER, if the car no longer sees / sense's the oil vapour then your car should be using more fuel to compensate? - you may need to reset the car so you have a fresh base for the car to calibrate from? I guess it depends how the ECU is set, it may account for some oil vapor in the AFR calibration due to the PCV setup from factory