Omsin

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Omsin last won the day on November 1

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222 Am i good or what?

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About Omsin

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  1. They hiked up their shipping prices not too long ago
  2. I had my recall done for this last week. I believe all they do is replace a relay as the relays in certain cars had the problem of not turning off which means the pump would stay on and potentially burn out
  3. Got mine sorted yesterday
  4. Shipping is about $250 but they can fit 2-3 lips per package if you want to do small group buys. Trouble is then that the combined packages exceeds the customs allowance and the whole order is charged 15% tax and import fees of around $60
  5. while the width doesn’t really matter too much, 9.5+ Kiwami are deep concave, below 9.5 is medium concave, 7.5 would be very low concave which would also play a part in clearing the face of the brakes. i would say the issue is more the offset. i had 9.5 +38 which cleared brembos with a little bit of extra clearance. if you need to you can get a small spacer worse case scenario
  6. If you’re basically never going to the track then I wouldn’t say you intend to track. People take stock cars to the track and don’t have issues, even aftermarket coilovers intended for the street can attend track days with no issues. When people say “track” more often than not it’s not an actual track day, it’s a non racing / play day on a track - 10-20min sessions. When a manufacturer or equivalent hears you say track days, they assume you mean full on racing with subjecting the car to a lot of repetitive abuse for extended amounts of time. i have 6/6 on my Wrx and I would say it’s pretty stiff, I wouldn’t want it any stiffer for a daily driver ( I could probably soften my damping more if I had slightly stiffer springs tho). Factory STI suspension is only around 5 I believe
  7. I mentioned the act in regards to providing services, not in regards to selling a product. The same basic principles around selling a product that’s fit for purpose etc applies to a business providing a “service”. That could a tradesman building a “new” deck or someone removing your “old” house for transport. If they f*** it up and it’s because of negligence then they haven’t provided a fair or expected level of service. Automotive example, a mechanic charges you $1000 to fix your car. You drive home and 5minutes down the road you discover it’s got the same fault. He’s charged you $1000 to replace the wrong part and you still need to fix the problem. Easier scenario, car shop strips / cross threads your lug nuts putting your wheels back on. In my case I made the shop replace my studs because they over tightened them
  8. The best setup I’ve had the pleasure of owning was 17x8 and 17x9 on my old R34 Skyline, fitment with a large sidewall never looked perfect but it gripped and went over bumps well. All I did with suspension was a set of Tein springs on stock struts too. 19x9.5 and 10.5 on my 350Z was surprisingly good but I think that’s down to the design of the body and rwd. The WRX is a long and fairly soft chassis design which awkwardly rolls it weight around in stock form. but yeah, like I said I got these wheels second hand so I didn’t get to choose ideal specs (also not much choice for second hand 5x100 wheels). Looking at Re003 Potenzas in the correct size
  9. I bought the wheels used with the tyres already fitted (off a slammed S-GT lmao), trust me i think stretched tyres look ghetto AF and I'm all about square well fitted wheels 😁 I understand physics, although i can't explain it - i know flex is good on a tyre (not to say you should get the softest tyre you can find, its within reason)
  10. Pretty flat looking at the car, I've had a few wheel alignments over the last few months and I've gone over it a few times regarding a more sport oriented setup - apparently the alignment is to factory spec and "any changes are just going to chew through tyres" - that was when I was asking if they could zero the front toe as opposed to them being slightly positive to compensate for the wheels wanting to push backwards at speed. Does make sense now thinking about the camber, the tyres are wearing faster on the outside edges. What's a good number for front camber? I don't want to lose too much straight line stability @Andy_Mac
  11. I've spent the last few weeks fine tuning the sway bar vs coilover settings, I've even gone so far as to play around with the tyre pressures based on the wear I was starting to see I've finally found the sweet spot with the coilovers, sway bars and tyre pressures. (i think). Front: Sway Bar: 22.5mm Coilover Damping: Medium/soft, Tyres: 40 PSI Rear: Sway Bar: 22mm, Damping: Firm/medium, Tyres: 38PSI I still have one last gripe, its that it feels like my front tyres are trying to roll under the rim on flat or off camber corners (basically any corners which don't promote grip). Could it be that I need to lower the car more? I had initially set the ride height lower but after a lot of online research I found that its better for these cars to sit at stock ride height or in my case a 10-20mm drop (basically the stock ride height of an STI is ideal). BUT I have the Whiteline roll centre kit so would I need to lower my car more to offset the raise of roll centre in the front? (I had't fine tuned everything when I first lowered the car so i'm not sure how it would compare). The only other thing I can think of is the 225/40 tyres on my 9.5" wide 18" wheels, I am looking at 255/35 or 265/35 tyres soon. I should also have STI front lower control arms and an ALK for them coming soon. Anyway, thoughts? leave ride height alone or lower it a tad more or wait until I have proper size tyres on?
  12. I see... There is the consumer guarantees act or fair trading act, which no matter what you sign and what a service provider says, cannot be opted out of. I think if you could somehow prove they provided inadequate service or incompetence (aka they f***ed up a setting or whatever) then they would be liable. I wouldn't know where to start if it happened to me but there must be something you could do if it was in fact the tuners fault. More reason to stick with reputable shops!!!
  13. What happens in this situation? Car blows up while being tuned?
  14. Do you have the little security key to turn the module off? Turn the security key on the unit off / on Wait for the immobiliser to turn on (solid blue light) Disarm immobiliser using alarm remote. Lock and unlock the car using factory key. Once unlocked with factory key then arm with the alarm remote. When I take my battery out I have to play around with the alarm when it goes back in. Because the alarm remote won’t lock or unlock the doors. Resetting the alarm module with the security key and then syncing the central locking with the alarm remote works for me