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Hi all, My reversing camera has fallen/been ripped off. It was small, cubical and mounted to the left of the number plate lights to an approx 3cm square hole. It appears to have been wired with a small black cable with very thin white and red wires surrounded by fine wire shielding. Probably 6V. There are various reasonably priced reversing cameras on Trade Me but they come with their own phono plug/co-ax style cable as well as 12V power/earth leads, and I'd rather solder/connect at the rear door and not have to run cable through the car and take the screen out to connect up. Can anyone recommend a camera and help/point me to fitting/wiring instructions? Many thanks Bill

Sorry for bumping an old post, I just purchased a BE5 (2000 Legacy B4 RSK) that came with the original 2-button key fob. I installed a new battery, cleaned up the contacts and tried these programming instructions. On the first try they seemed to work. But once I disconnected the registration connectors it stopped working, when I tried to program it again nothing happened. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?

Hi all, So today I removed the oil galley bung above cylinder number 3 to install a temperature sensor into it. It took a huge amount of torque to crack the bung free (it had Loctite of some sort and it was red coloured!)....after removing the bung all the material from the thread sealant which had hardened and just crumbled fell right into the galley to make a home inside my EJ20Y. I haven't even cranked the engine over at all yet. How concerned should I be? Does anyone know where this galley leads to? Does it feed the camshafts and the rest of the top end? Thanks

a bit new for me BUT thanks for the Update and taking the time to post those details aye ❤️

Man that TR option is about as close to an STI as you're likely to get nowadays. A shame Subaru NZ doesn't bring a few in.

Final update, got a second hand unit installed. Back to working normally. I went second hand as I like the factory units, the physical off and volume button. Also the maps speed camera alerts, albeit way out of date and I know you can use Waze etc but no carplay with these head units. $560 odd for unit $280 install etc My research for replacements found: Most can't deal with the Harman Kardon amp, uses CAN bus for volume and turn on controls or something. A few android units were compatible though. Every unit is left hand drive biased in the layout. https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-9-inch-car-radio-for-subaru-forester-impreza-wrx-sti-2013-2018-google-map.html - the older 9" model with a physical button. https://www.idoingstereo.com/products/Idoing9quotCarRadioPlayerForSubaruWRX2016-2021GPSNavigationCarplayAndAndroidAutoHeadUnitPlugAndPlay360Panorama.html - which most youtube videos are about. Two interesting option were: https://teyes.co.nz/collections/subaru/products/teyes-cc3-for-subaru-forester-4-sj-2016-2018-car-radio-multimedia-video-player-navigation-stereo-no-2din-2-din-dvd - meant to have a better menu/interface https://aucarauto.com/product/aucar-tesla-style-subaru-wrx-2015-2021/ - tesla style if thats your think

Has anyone here purchased the Premium 6Spd manual version? What's it like? I also see we don't get the TR version with the Brembos and Recaro seats.

The cars are pretty much identical. I think the tS gets like... heated wing mirrors, some slightly fancy dampers and an STI badge on the steering wheel. It is a little bit odd that they don't offer a manual tS but that's the reality of most car brands and their extremely limited customisation these days.

Why can the 2.4T Premium be configured as a 6Speed Manual but not the higher spec tS?

You can adjust the piston position at the top of the clutch pedal. Move it towards the firewall. You might want to check that the hydraulics are working properly first though. Also make sure not to adjust it too high, because then, when you push the pedal to the floor it can over extend the clutch fork and the master cylinder.

I have 2012 impreza WRX-SE crouching tiger ( The orange one ) . the clutch pedal is " biting " right at the bottom i.e as the pedal is pressed right in . is there a way to adjust is so its a bit further up in the stroke of the pedal . Any help would be great this is my second Subaru and love these cars . My car is like this one . mine is number 2 of 10 for New Zealand https://autotrader.co.nz/car-reviews/subaru-impreza-wrx-crouching-tiger

Think I joined 2005/2006ish... recently back into the Subaru ownership game too, trying to relive the glory days! Have added a 2004 WRX STI Spec C WR-Ltd to the fleet. First Subaru was a 2004 WRX WR-Ltd, then a 2003 Spec C that got turned into a race car and written off at the ITM400, then built a 2002 Spec C into another better race car which I sold post Covid and naturally have regretted ever since! A reunion at some point would be good value. BT

Yea well....your right....but I'd prefer to keep my oil non-sparkly😅

] Don't worry, the gears will grind the circlips into dust in no time.

I don't see how the axles could come out either.....I was more concerned about the unknowns surrounding whether or not the circlips have seated in properly.....or if they have broken or had been pushed through into the centre of the diff ready to go for a ride through the gears.

Dealer techs aren't going to be the greatest source of what is normal, usually, because as you highlighted, 99% of the cars they see are the "ordinary" ones, whereas obviously a place like ClubSub or some niche Subaru guy is going to have a concentration of "weird" Subarus. As you have clearly discovered there's a pretty enormous list of possible variations of axle+diff centre+diff housing, each possibly having a unique configuration. Don't overthink this one. If you can think of a way your rear axles could come out during normal operation without there first being a catastrophic failure of some suspension component I'm all ears.

Just thought I'd let you guys know that I have been in touch with 4 Subaru dealer technicians, two qualified mechanics and the Subaru tuning specialist to tunes my car. I have got a variety of different responses, the mechanics think the clips should NOT be left in the diff...the dealership technicians have contradicting opinions, some say they should be left in the diff, some say they shouldn't and one guy reckoned there shouldn't be any at all!?. The Subaru specialist was absolutely adament that the clips are supposed to be left in there (on a R180) and he had many colourful things to say about the dealership technicians as he thinks they should know better. Another thing I learnt is that the front axles ALWAYS has clips that come out the "normal" traditional way. My research told me that there are varying different varieties of Subaru diffs that use both methods (clips staying in is a bit rare and niche though I believe), therefore I decided that because they were both left in the diff it is more likely to be by design than by something going wrong....and the tuning workshop guy really convinced me as he deals with the older performance Subarus opposed to the dealership mostly doing new stuff.....and the qualified mechanics wouldn't be super familiar with niche Subaru things in particular. So I popped them back in with a tap of the heavy hammer....applied some pressure with a prybar to confirm they were locked in....they were......then I pulled them out and looked at the circlips to make sure they were still in the same position as I first saw them and hadn't sheared off or broken......I put them back in and repeated about 3 times until I felt comfortable about them. I haven't put oil back in or driven it yet ....but if anything goes wrong I'll be sure to post about it here! Also when I pryed to make sure they were locked in I noticed there was a bit of side to side play in axel when applying pressure to confirm the axles were locked into the diff.....probably about 2 or 3mm of movement? Is this normal? It made me a bit uneasy as I don't understand how it can have play if the circlips have locked it into the grooves? None the less the axles required quite a lot of pressure to pop them out so I assume they are locked in properly? Has anyone got an opinion about this? many thanks to all..... I'll be sure to let you know when I have a whining rear end and grey pastey, sparkly diff oil 😅

There are different R180s too... I only have direct experience with the GC8 Type R/RA diffs that have clutch packs... the circlips are internal with these. Some of the later STis have a viscous rear R180...pretty sure the axles are the same though.

Damn that's some good economy. I'd be lucky to get more like 500-550 from a tank in the Legacy at best

Range has never been an issue with the Legacy wagon (BP5) thankfully. 720km is the most I have done in one tank in the North Island over summer. I think it was New Plymouth to Taupo, some shagging about and then to Paraparaumu. I suppose with all fuel being imported these days there's no strong reason for there to be supply issues on the premium grades. Compression ratios are going up too for dat fuel economy.

Yea you will have the r180. Can't actually comment on axle types though. I only ever pulled the front ones on my old one. They are an oddball axle though, r180 sized inner with r160 outer to match the hubs for the rest of the lineup

Upon a bit of research I believe I have an R180 diff. Even pulled axles out of these in particular?

Yea okay that's a good thought. The Clips are MOST DEFINITELY still inside the diff. Looking through one axle hole I can see all the way through to the other side and there is definitely a clip on each side. They are still seated in their grooves.

It should be pretty obvious by the depth of the groove. A deep groove on the axle stub will probably mean a circlip is supposed to be present. A shallow groove probably means the circlip is inside the diff. You can also put your finger in the diff and see if you can feel the circlip... should be easy enough.

Any idea on how I can confirm whether or not they should be in there? Because they are left behind it would be likely that they are supposed to right?