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I'm a fan of easy fixes so this sounds like a decent idea. Although if it runs do a compression test before you celebrate

From what we know it's just a detune. Various head and block part numbers cross over between the two which indicates no difference

Have you found any seized idlers/ bearings? Something else touching the belt? Seems crazy it would just snap unless something was wearing it down or jammed somewhere. Agree with A_J_T, they are the same engine so shouldn't have any real problems swapping them over. Then pull the other one apart and see what went wrong.

For what it's worth, I've been through this on my 06 WRX and fixed it elcheapo: -Cancelled error codes through OBD2 -Pulled fuse on pump (it was fricken noisy from the bearing rusting out from too much moist exhaust air) -Made blanking plates and jammed them inbetween 2 pipe junctions between valve and pump. Advantage of doing that it you don't have to remove half the intake and IC to get to the valves. Valves still there, jammed open or closed, it doesn't really matter. Never had any probs since. About 5 years ago.

I feel like this 'how to' is missing some bits, like how to get them out of the engine in the first place... Anyway, update is that I have taken the car to winger greenlane twice now, for a total of $750, and the lights have now come back on again. First time cost $200 where they told me the rear solenoids (no relation to my error codes) were sticky so cleaned them, inspected a bunch of things and that was it. Second $550 they changed the oil as they told me I had fitted hte wrong grade of oil, 5w40 instead of 5w30 and drove it twice... and it came back less than a week later. I have done a bunch of research and I cant find anything that says 5w40 gives trouble, but many people seem to run it. But anyway, I have now booked it in again, for the 7th of October, these guys really need to get more service ability if they are always this damn overloaded, its garbage. Winger east tamaki was even worse for booking time. I'm not particularily interested in spending lots more money at this point on an 11 year old car with 200k on the clock, so will start doing more research on fixing the problem myself.

That is terrifying, Surely there is a reason for a low mileage belt to snap like that. maybe a damaged pulley or something else in the timing related kit? If the 20X is known good id go with that. or if you use your original 20Y at least pull the heads and make sure the pistons didn't kiss any valves

I wonder if the cambelt prior to snapping had stretched, throwing out the cam timing etc. A reputable shop I use suggests a timeframe and not just a KM based cam belt swap for Subaru’s. Highly likely you have damage, would need to be inspected