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Serviced the donor car I bought for the race car. Old oil flushed. New filter, plug washer and oil. Radiator flushed and filled with fresh coolant. Trans was completely empty so filled with oil. Brakes bled with fresh fluid so they actually work now. Discovered the old fuel filter had been bypassed, so installed a fresh one and hooked it up. Pumped the old fuel out and put some fresh 98 in. Then checked base fuel pressure and adjusted slightly. Fixed a few other little things like the water temp gauge, the intercooler rubbing on radiator support and the exhaust rattling on towbar. Found the steering rack leaks like a sieve. Thankfully the one on the racecar doesn't. So will leave that for now. The exhaust is pretty cooked. The bottom of the downpipe is about to break off from the rest of the exhaust. Going twinscroll anyway so not needed. Also noticed its missing 3 of the 5 nuts holding the downpipe to the turbo lol. Anywho, took it for a short test drive which went well. 12-13psi on a short pull. Sounds pretty healthy and makes cool turbo noises. Next on the list: send a can of upper engine cleaner through it, change the plugs and check rear diff oil. Then I'm basically ready to pull the engine from the donor car and start getting it ready to put in the racecar.

Hi, I am not the greatest with wiring but I have done my best... I got a new headunit for my 2015 Levorg and managed to wire it all in and replace the Japanese Panasonic unit which is great. However im stuck on the steering wheel control section. I have a 20 pin connector and took pins 4,14 and 13 and wired it to the 3.5mm adapter. This got my source, mute, and both phone buttons working (after i mapped them in the headunit), but i cant for the life of me figure out how to get volume up/down and the skip buttons working. When i try to map them it doesnt detect it. Are the signals sent through the same wire and I need a controller? or are there additional wires im missing? I also loosely referred to this http://ae64.com/20-pin-pinout.htm Is anyone able to help? Cheers!

Go for the 2008 up model if you can way better handling and chassis. evo 4 is great car but you get very little for the money as the are worn out. They don’t suffer as much from the weak front chassis in wheel arches but they do tear subframes out a bit. also the rear diff wears out a lot unless you find the RS with wind up window and real real LSD. but old evos feel way faster even when going slow with more road noise etc in older cars.

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