RSB

Just on the exhaust, I recently put a diff back hks hipower on my legacy, and its fine at higher revs (3k and above) but really loud below that and on deceleration. When i get the rest of the exhaust built (downpipe, midpipe, de-cat etc) what are peoples opinions on best options to sort this? Highflow baffled muffler instead of cat? Big resonators? Different tail piece? I really really want to avoid the exhaust tip baffle if i can.

My understanding is that when its boosting only on primary, the wastegate is actuated at lower boost than it is when boosting primary + secondary. (VF18/19 anyhow) All disconnecting #10 does is open the wastegate at the same psi as when boosting on secondary. My experience with this 'mod' is that outright performance gains are negligible, but there is a much fatter torque curve between 3 and 4.5k rpm on part throttle. IE: normal driving conditions/highway overtaking etc. In my car, vod is improved but still present. I'm too scared to run it for too long like this, but i'm yet to hear first hand of anyone frying their primary or engine as a result.

Can anyone tell me if BE seats will fit in a BD? Both front and rear preferably.

I have been told that brasso is the biz.

I had one priced up at sublab in the hutt about a year ago at $590. That was with some reasonable discounting, but def not $180 worth. I'd def try other options.

+1. However, there are some reasonably simple steps one can take to mitigate said understeer. I transformed the handling of my BD5 RSB by chucking on a 22mm Rear Swaybar, solid strut brace, good wheel alignment, decent tyres and by paying attention to the tyre pressure (35f 38r). Its no race car, but its now one hell of a drivers car and is an absolute dream over roads such as paekak. because the handling is now much more neutral, and because the car so communicative, you don't need to thrash it to have fun. Whilst I havent driven too many BE's or BH's, the small sample I have driven (all tiptronics mind) I really do think the BD/BG in rev C form is the better drivers car. I'm going to get my bilsteins rebuilt soon and pay some attention to the front end (swaybar, bushes etc) It'll be interesting to see the difference that makes to an already tight car.

+1

Have a chat to mac at 41automotive. Would fully advise getting the bar+brake cylinder stopper too. BCS won't cost a hell of a lot more when bought as a package.

I got a Cusco one on my RSB and i noticed an immediate difference. Well worth it.

For a start, anything forward of the cat is not a cat back exhaust. A cat back is just that. And the Cat referenced in that equation is the cat aft of the Y pipe, not the one in the down pipe. As far as killing turbos goes, aftermarket downpipes have been known to kill early bd5/bg5 turbos due to overspool, but I understand it was fixed with the VF18/19 combo which was Pre B4. As for B4, i'm not overly familiar with their quirks. Doing the exhaust properly can get you good gains in peak HP and reduce lag and VOD. Having a halfassed job can introduce you to a whole lot of financial pain :-)

From Experience. option 1. Heatshield on up-pipe. It's at the front of the engine, and can rattle to varying degrees. Option 2. Heatshield on Down pipe. At the rear of the engine, and can rattle under load at between 2-4k. Option 3. Pinking. Detonation. The car is being run on too low a octane Fuel. STAY AWAY. this car will likeley blow the bigend. Option 4. Damaged Keyway on crank. Will need a new crank/pully wheel. Option 5. One of about two million other things that could be loose/broken. Its a rattle. Impossible to diagnose over the net, especially with third hand information! Those are your top 5 options.

Search VOD on these forums if its a TT. There's a wealth of information.

As already stated, engine, bilsteins and facelift model. The facelift was pretty minor, but RSB's look way better than RS'! colour coded skirts, bigger wheels, projector lamps, cornering lights, slightly different interior. Later RSB's have a nice black centre console insert (where your faux wood grain would normally go) Issues. Bigend. Listen for knocking. Normal subie issues like rocker cover seals, crank seals etc. Rust around front/rear screens Quirks Valley of death! big fat hole between primary and secondary turbos. For a whale, they handle damned well. Fantastic car for hauling the family around/daily commuter/road tripper, and respond very well to basic handling mods.

I had a real interesting chat with the last highway patrol cop that gave me a speeding ticket. He was one of those ones parked up in the shadows on a deserted straight piece of highway late at night.. anyway. He readily admitted that it was all just a bit of a game, And wasn't really about safety at all. His words? "yeah mate, i know the roads well lit, two lanes wide and completely empty, but (wry smile) the law's the law!" At which point he starts tellig me about the speeds he's busted people at down there, complementing my car, and agreeing with my assertation that its all a bit of a game. I'm kinda hoping that this whole radar business could be signalling a shift in government focus when it comes to the police. God knows they need to have a greater presence where it matters, and less focus on being the countries second largest tax collector.

contrary to previous advice, rear seats on BD do NOT fold flat! Seat backs fold on to squabs which are fixed. Also, the hole is curved and NOT the full width of the seat backs. ok for skis, snowboards and fishing rods, but not suitable for a load which requires a flat surface.

50/50 split. Bigger rear swaybar and dcent strut braces will help with understeer. Good sticky tyres first though.

No your not. My EJ20R ONLY Gets fed 98. My beaten up old hack offroader gets 91, max.

+ one milllion.

Oh yup. Cheers. Learnt that solder = win!

Are they both the same shape? If they are, then i'd hit Number two. Leather is a right PITA when pushing it. slippy styles. Look out for rust around the front and rear screens. When i bought my wrx, i was looking at legacies, and 3 out of 4 had rust. When i bought my legacy absurdly cheaply at auction, i found a receipt for rust removal around rear screen. At the time it was done, the car was less than 8 years old.

Rear wiper washer is not independant. Gets its feed from primary washer bottle. Not sure that my car has heated mirrors? Can get you photos later.

Hmm. Exactly that happened to my car 6 months or so ago. Turns out that the bullet connectors on the ZS controller/ECU harness were not 100% seated and shorting out. Unless Kas has a ZS controller, it could be something electrical? either a short or perhaps moisture in around the ecu area. Unlikely, but another angle nonetheless.

I exclusively run 98. Wont touch any other fuel with a arge pole, unless i'm stuck, which hasn't happened yet!

Dunno what other swaybars fit, But I have a whiteline 22mm Adjustable rear on mine. For daily use i have it set on 20mm (stock is 18) and the difference is huge! Turn in has been greatly improved and understeer has been largely eliminated. Having yet to get it on the track, i'm yet to really test its limits and compare between the 18, 20 and 22mm settings.

Basic question - will BH/BE front and rear seats fit in to their older counterparts?