newsuba

They should suffice. Next step up, TS2000's could cost a lot more.

Who told you that ? Some guy at Super Cheap/Ripco ? They are an OK off-the-shelf pad. Formula/TS2000 are their really good road pads. Then you go into the DS series race pads.

The E30 M3 remains THE epitome of real M-cars. There's a couple of E30 M3 imports on TardMe now. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/BMW/E30/auction-200401849.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/BMW/E30/auction-213618882.htm Neither looks particularly appealing to the M-connoisseur, although the white one has the advantage of being LHD. You do not want an E30 converted to RHD as they lose the wonderfully sharp and tactile steering that is essential to the E30 M3 experience. Love the E46 but not a fan of the coupes (M3 aside). 330i is superb, especially in M-spec. Best was the 330D(iesel), an effortless touring car ideal for NZ conditions. A good sized 4-seater with excellent build, great handling and a superb drivetrain that makes turbo Jappas feel like tractors. Get NZ new though, most Jap imports have lower spec than NZ cars plus a FSH is essential.

STi v7 sedan with Brembos... F 326mm/R 316mm STi v7 hatch with 4-pot F/2-pot R... 294mm/290mm* All 5x100PCD * spec sheet sez 266mm but the rears use same 2-pots as Type R/RA so 290mm ?

No, because electronic circuits need time to warm up and stabilise. Same problem affects POP, hence it's suspect reliability. Yes, new digital speedcameras use K-band, bastards as there is a lot of other crap using the same bandwidth.

Relatively rare. Based on the first generation Z3 it was likened to a modern day Shelby Cobra. From memory, BMW made about 800 M-coupes in RHD with the 3.2L straight six from the E36 M3 Evo. Then another 200 or so with the revised 3.2L s6 from the E46 M3. It was also available as a convertible known as the M-Roadster. More info http://jalopnik.com/cars/jalopnik-fantasy-garage/first-generation-bmw-m-coupe-258496.php

$250+gst from Racebrakes, 2-3 years ago for a front set.

In the E36 it was firmer suspension and cosmetic bodykit. Can't remember if the E36 Motorsport got the close ratio gearbox (with dogleg 1st) like the E30 M-sport. Edit; I have a copy of the original E36 coupe brochure. PM your email address and I'll send a scan of the spec sheet.

E36. Cant afford or want to afford a newer one 142kW IIRC, classic smooth BMW straight six. Not bad to drive. Notchy gearbox and slow steering are main drawbacks. Good handling for the time, better sorted rear end than previous E30 3-series. M-suspension better for handling, adversely affect ride comfort. Brakes average. Reliable if properly serviced (FSH very helpful), check that the service indicator is working, some owners dis-connect the display. Pick of the E36's would be the 3.0 M3 or South African built 328i Motorsport, BMW NZ imported a few of these back in the late 90s.

: Ran Mintex 1166 in the front of my STi, definitely need some heat in them and they chewed up my DBA 5000's. But they did an excellent job of stopping.

What year/model ? Later series E46 was much improved over earlier E36 cars.

Brembo pads are quite a bit bigger than the Subaru 4-pots. NO to your 2nd Q. You definitely should bleed the brakes and replace with fresh brake fluid when you change the pads. If DIY, best get a mate to help you. BTW TS2000's have gone up to $200+GST

Join your local Motorsport NZ affiliated car club.

That's the theory but it never happens in reality. Car makers become so comfortable with safe designs that they never recapture the innovation of their youth, losing the very essence that propelled them to greatness.

More than a muffin top, that's the whole damn bakery.

Yep. They usually tell you to switch off t/timers when racing.

Now that's a first. You might as well disconnect the turbo timer and junk it. They are useless gizmos for the mechanically un-sympathetic.

Did they ? Learn something new everyday... ;D

Ditto. V8 runs 5x100 PCD

The two offical imports of Australian STi's also went bang. Poor fuel and the ADR emission regs were given as reasons for the de-tuning (which also applied to EU market STi's).

And use the brakes more. Someone famous once told me "...gears to go, brakes to stop...". Heel and toe still has it's uses though, mainly in open road driving, around town all it does it use up more fuel and attract attention when you get it wrong. For those who are not physically agile enough to heel and toe: Buy a car with a fancy robotised manual or sophisticated auto that blips the throttle by itself on the downshift; Or for those who like manuals, buy a new Nissan 370Z which has an electronic gizmo called Syncro Rev Match that does the blipping for you. ;D

Upgrade. Locally available road Toyos in descending order; Proxes T1R Proxes CT01 Proxes 4 Proxes FZ4

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-516768/Is-scariest-picture-EVER-Bride-Wildenstein.html

And wait until you see the 2010 Outback... http://jalopnik.com/5205240/2010-subaru-outback-the-butch-is-back

That's part of the SUB in Subaru Twins ? EPIC fail !