lunchie

Hey guys, thanks heaps for all the feedback. I have pretty much decided it will either be the 2012 forester (because it looks like a flash outdoors/suv type car) or the Golf GTI. As to which I will end up buying? Will probably come down to whenever I find an example of either that meets my very picky high standards. I think honestly I would be happy with either as the Forester kinda says "hey im doing ok enough to have a new looking car and I probably do cool NZ outdoors stuff" Where as the Gti kinda presents an effortless modern appearance without being too showy.

Hey Guys thanks heaps for all the replies. To elaborate a bit more the job would be something in realestate so mostly driving around clients. It would be my daily in and around town so mostly shortish trips of between 5-20 mins. IF I bought the GTI I would absolutely be buying it from a dealer and getting a rock solid warranty on it too. I should have also mentioned that I am about 6,6 or 199cm tall so the hatches really suit me better as they have lots more headroom in them. TBH the car I have enjoyed driving the most ( by a considerable margin) is the forester. Its the much newer 2012 model so doesnt look like such a boyracer model as the original (no offence but they do sorta have that rep these days). Also I know that with a simple ecu reflash I can gain a good 20-30hp and probably pick up some fuel economy too. I really enjoy the GTI too and was talking with an owner today who told me he easily sees fuel economy in the 8ltr per 100kms range during normal around town driving. Quite impressive imho.

Hey mate, thanks heaps for the reply, really appreciate it, do you have any fuel numbers or personal experiences from these specific models, also why are you not so keen on the forester, I would have thought being a subaru you would prefer it?

Hey all I am looking at replacing my old whip. Managed to get it narrowed down to just a few but would like a little first hand knowledge if possible. The 5 cars I am considering Forester XT (turbo) manual 2009-2013 (Third gen) OR Subaru Wagon/estate Wrx 2004-2008 (blob-eye or Hawk-eye) VW Golf GTI MK 6 2008-2012 Honda Civic Type R (EP3) 2001-2005 OR Honda accord Euro R (CL7) 2002-2008 I have taken all but the civic for a test drive and have been very impressed by each of them in their own ways. The car will be a daily driver that may have customers in it from time to time for work purposes. It needs to be reliable and "reasonable" on fuel as it may get driven a good 200-300kms per week. (ideally not worse than 10kms per ltr) I know the turbo cars will use a little more gas but I would like to know how much they actually use IRL not just what the specs claim. Before I go any further though I would like to speak with someone who own(s/d) any of these models. Most specifically I am after the following information - What is the fuel economy like/Can my target of 10kms per ltr be achieved realistically with sensible driving? - Has it been reliable? - Is it comfortable and presentable inside (would you have any issues putting a customer or other guest in the car)? - What has the service costs been like? - Anything significant you think a new owner should know before buying one? - Any other info / overall personal experience of owning the car so far? Please feel free to post your reply info in thread or email me at [email protected] or text me on 027-3925842 I have also posted this up on the VASK (euro forum) and NZ Hondas forum just to cover my bases. Thank you in advance for anyone that contributes to the discussion.

does anyone have a link to that crazy AE86 build some guy did a while back. It was a swedish guy I think and anyway he did a copy of the formula atlantic build and during the process he also showed off some of his other cars in the shed (GT3 track car etc) Anyway It was hosted on some NZ forum and the guy just did an incredible job on every aspect of the car. Totally stripped back to bare shell and ended up making something like 200hp atw. Just want to read that build thread again. never got a chance to take the time to read the whole thing properly.

Anyway, found some Yokohama A drive 2nd hand set of 4 all with 7mm of tread on them. $62 each. A much more touring-higher grip tyre than the supercats. Very happy with them. http://yokohama.co.nz/a_drive.php

Hey guys I am about to throw a new set of tires on the corona (1990 3s manual) Bridgestone has a promo atm for 13/175/70 supercats for 69 each fitted balanced etc etc Anyone think of anything better for a similar price? I was thinking about some nicer Turanza\'s or Kumho\'s but I can\'t find them for under $99 each but undoubtedly they would be a better tire I imagine. So basically any last minute reasons not to pull the trigger on the supercats deal?

whiteline Best price Best quality can order direct or get from the shock shop around nz or autolign

I got the exact same power from my gt with the exact same mods and it went great. Then I sold it and brought a Teh Type R and it also made 137 kw atw with headers and exhaust. Dam hondas

most things I have read on the wrx/sti say 100kms or 10years, whichever comes sooner

I have owned a couple BC leggies. On RS sedan and one GT sedan. TBH as weird as this sounds I prefered the Auto GT. The full leather interior and its amazing cruising ability made it such a nice car to take out on a sunday for a drive down the coast. When I brought the GT it was stock and all I did to it was a nice 2.5inch exhaust a RELIABLE ecu chip which just tweaked the fuel maps for 98 and boost was raised from 7psi to 11psi. I also popped in a flat panal filter and because I don\'t like worn shocks I put in a set of munro GT gas shocks with Dobi sport springs (only 20 mm lower and about 30% firmer, I dont like super low cars) and then a guy I know at Otago tires got me a great deal on a whiteline 22mm rear sway bar. Gotta say just the following mods completely changed the way the car felt. It went from being a nice gentle fairly quick cruiser to being a much quicker and more agile sports sedan. Being an auto it was not great around really tight stuff but on long sweeping corners like the road from dunedin to christchurch the suspension changes just made it stick to road so so nicely without feeling like it was on the edge at all (probably because I was nowhere near the limit lol) and the few power tweaks just made the engine come alive like I wouldn\'t ever have believed for the money. exhaust (700 because I had my own muffler) chip 400 shocks/springs 1000 sway bar 220 flat panel filter $80 Some nice ferroda sport brake pads and dot 5 fluid $250 Dunlop Direzza DZ 101 tires, set of 4 $800 Car was $1700 Mods were $3450 Total price for a great car that handled and had a pimping full leather interior $5150 (or $3950 if you were smarter than me and started with an RS rather than GT) lol What my point is here is that for not a lot of money (3950) I managed to transform a GT legacy from quite a soggy thing into what I consider to this day the best sports sedan I have ever owned, even with the auto. And if I had of started with an RS I wouldn\'t have needed to do the suspension which would have made it even cheaper. As it always happens with modded cars I ended up selling it for 3k I think but the point is that for not a huge amount of cash I had a car that at least I considered more fun on the whole than my friends V4 wrx which had cost him 11k. I am not stupid tho, I know his car would have creamed mine around the corners or on a track but that\'s not what this thread is about. So to the OP I say don\'t hesitate to buy a BC but I would be prepared to spend a little on it to bring it up to a level you will enjoy (depends what you like tho) I will say this one last thing though, another flatmate brought a 2000 WRX RA that I managed to find for him for around 10k and that thing is just incredible in every way and it is stock as a rock. I know that might sound contradictory but what I am trying to say is that IF you intend on buying a GC chassis you might as well buy the one with the most development years behind it, a V5 or 6. Even in normal WRX form they are such amazing cars for the money. These days you should be able to pick up a normal v5/6 wrx for 7k and an RA for maybe 8-10 and the engines in them are much more reliable than the V3 and the interiors... well.... don\'t even go there lol, its Calvin Klein vs whatever shop sells those girls t-shirts that say "Juicy" on the back.

That could have something to do with it too, but as I said above, once you get them to NZ V8 + sti\'s all tend to dyno at around 170-190kw atw in stock form on our petrol. (98) Weird thing is that its not as simple as the later models make more power and the v8/9\'s make less. I have seen a totally stock v8 dyno at 188kw atw and a 2.5 v10 only put out 175 on the same dyno day. Go figure.

Forget about about what you read. This is a basic guide to keep things simple. IF you buy an STI in NZ and take it to the dyno at somewhere middle of the road like STM (middle of the road in terms of readings on the dyno) it will show between 170-190 kw atw in totally stock form. This is for the v8 onwards 2.0 to 2.5 models right through to the current models. That is all. ALL of them will show around 200-210kw atw with a remapped ecu and a catback exhaust. All of the V8 to current models should run a mid 13 stock and a flat 13 or high 12 with remapped ecu and exhaust mod. If you plan on keeping it stockish some people prefer the 2.5 ltr for its greater low down torque. If you plan on bolting on a bigger turbo (without doing a full on forged engine rebuild) then you should probably use the 2.0ltr because it seems to cope with more power pushed through the stock internals than the 2.5. So what I am saying is do not buy the current model over say a tidy v8 because the add says it has an extra 20kw. In the real world with realworld non-race driver skills they will both be very even. Honestly between the V8- current models I would tell someone just to buy the car they like the most in look and feel etc because they are so damn near each other in specs and real world performance.

Yep.the usdm one had an issue with the oil pickup breaking, havent seen it in any of the jdm ones. The 2.5 is really torquie too, impressive gains to be had from a light retune The 2.5 in the forester STI\'s seems to be more robust than the 2.5 in the later model sti\'s. I would even go as far as saying I don\'t hate the 2.5 forester sti\'s

1-2 would say sti 3 evo 4 sti 5 sti 6 evo 7 sti (6 speed vs 5 speed) 8 evo 9 sti 10 evo This is all assuming 2ltr versions of the sti (JDM)

ah, ok wrong model

My flatmate just put these on his car 99 Wrx RA about 5,000kms ago. Loves them, I have to say they grip like shit to a blanket, doesnt even lose the ass in the wet when provoked now. Bridgestone potenza RE002 Google them too if you want, their reviews are hugely positive http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Bridgestone/Adrenalin-RE002.htm http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/tyres/122/potenza-re002/181456/detail?associated=185740%2C Whole set fitted for $800

what shape is that tho? old shape or the new 1.8ltr shape

haha, not my thing and WAY too expensive

I know it\'s a silly expensive idea but all of us have cars like these that are just dreams "if" we have a spare 10k or maybe more like 20k but stuff like this is what makes the world of cars great, there is something for everyone. Also do nice versions of these really come up for sale in NZ? because I have searched TM half a dozen times over the past year and never found anything

Quite right, which is why the thread specifies that this is just an idea and not based on any capacity to pay for said car.

Hey guys this is just a question, I don\'t have the money (at this time) to fund this project so please don\'t waste any work time on it guys if you are in the industry, this is just something I am trying to gather info on for a project in the next year or two Does anyone here work for a yard that imports from Japan and that can source cars? Basically I have always lusted after a few older cars and the one that seems the most feasible to get (money wise) is the 1987/1988 Mazda GTX hatchback 1.6 turbo AWD. I Dunno why but I have always loved them and I would really like to know if a really good 4/5 star or better condition example could be found in Japan and how much it might cost to import one? Basically my plan is that sometime over the next 3 years I would like to find one and then re engineer some of the more fragile parts such as the engine and gearbox, either through the original running gear or by replacing it with the running gear from a later model 1.8ltr GTR model. I THINK the running gear "should" swap over fairly easily as I believe the engine code is very similar in the same way that most ej20\'s can be swapped without a huge amount of changes needed. This is the car I mean http://www.modified.com/features/modp-1205-1988-mazda-323-gtx/ I think this has the USDM front bumper though, the JDM one looks better. Anyway, anyone who has access to japan auction sheets I would love to know how roughly how much I might be in for.

Cool. Thanks, I know Toyotas pretty well but am still trying to level up on my subie knowledge

VF30 is stock V7 JDM sti turbo correct? and VF34 is the V7 STI spec C turbo?

No det on 98, they go very well on 98 actually. should get well over 600kms to a tank if you keep stock airbox. DONT put a pod filter on them, seems to stuff up fuel economy badly If you service them well and keep stockish then they are great little cars, I still really miss mine actually. I had a BZV (the black top with 5speed and LSD)