CUDDAS

Rehomed them both, new wof & scraped alot of my spare bits collected over the years

How many modified ferrari 458's around for you to look at it like that :©

At the ecu -what model? but seriously why ???

CUDDAS as in CUDDAS fitter welder, semi brewer & was an automotive technician, dairy/crop farmer, owner of a couple of BC Legacy's i have slightly modded a few times over the past 13 years - not a lot i haven't removed & refitted to both. So Just tell em to ease up on the drink

Yip nice work koom i like the look with the secta's 8) Must be happy man

Re-assembled & sealed another g/box for the rs, fitted box & put engine back in with another twisted turbo set up, made a couple of mounting brackets for the top of the fmic & started on another down pipe

Haha i have 89rs & another black bc brents i think parked over the road from home B)

Parked in bumper to bumper traffic on other side of ashburton, pretty sure I'm not gonna be in chch soon haha

I think someone did that last time heated meth... I just started mine up first time since the 6th of march & its still clean looking from the clean after my trip to back from the coast at waitangi weekend haha love car covers...... namely flannel sheets but my helmet didn't turn up in the post.. so funky if there's a club spare or if somone has a spare for hire, id be keen

No not with the bc5's

both of mine are Closed Deck Blocks & another one is sleeved could be hearesay about the air cooled, & carbon what............... in 1989/90 - maybe carbon cannister not panels & air con'd

mine were/are except the turbo's VF8 was on the rs & the VF10 was on the GT, both had same water pumps too with the oil cooler line, same 3 plug loom & sensors, two bolt coils & hyd lifters Mine are 1989-1990 BC5 'S1'

may have been missed

have someone try another air flow meter for you :-\

I think if its (speedo) there it has to work, like fog lights, but they might look over it? but if your km's arn't changing .... but if you remove it im sure they will ask Q's on km's reading

i would have spent a little more on brake pads

I'd hope so but couldn't tell you about std boost figures as i've been using a turbosmart eboost for 7+ years now

I run 3 set points, sp1-14.3psi is my start up setting, sp2-19.0psi & sp3-21.6psi, usually set on sp2 but really just depends on what im upto, its only a push of a button but i have complete control over my boost & gate pressure's, boost sensitivity & even the safety of over boost shut down. part of what i had & yes i wasted a little money here & there meh... with the remap it was fine on sp1 & in sp2 i would get to just at 6400rpm & have slight miss, it was also there with the modcontrol chip & safcII too but i ran that with out the map sensor like posted before -that got me around the boost cut 16.3psi & the considerably larger turbo probably wasnt helping as it pumps alot more air than the td05h, the tdo5h was good on all set points without any missing issues with the modcontrol chip, the miss only turned up after adding the larger turbo, the re-map ecu was sorced for me to run yellows which it did & so did the modcontrol chip along with the safcII which is what i originaly brought it to do, but hadn't tried the yellows as i wasn't sure how to set it up for them, so with a little help we had it sorted so it ran them fine so i ran with that (more gadgets ) so then went to v6 decapable yellows with rails with dash fittings welded which is where i had some issues with a couple of welded fittings misting fuel, so bit the bullet & just went to A/M v5/6 rails, i then had over fueling issues, & after replacing the injector O-rings, it was still there, so thought the injectors were alot bigger than i could control with re-map & modcontrol & safcII, this is where i went to a v1/2 wrx possum link & again over fueling issues even when i borrowed a hand controller it wouldnt stabalise so purchased a RS possum link with hand control from known running car plugged in started & noticed again over fueling, was then i found left hand fuel rail i had not bolted right down only very slightly but was enough to cause my issues sooo?????? this fixed my problem maybe not yours but when you change stuff here & there alot, you just never know

Yip id still check the injectors, as to spluttering not too sure, i also was not connected to the map sensor which i have to use now with the link ??? & i won't advise it to you, but that's how i rolled for years, spark plugs/coil packs?

i ran with green afm, on all three chipped ecu's running v3/4 yellows, re-map was a chipped for yellows ecu which flashed ALL the injector codes when running both grey 380's & v3/4 yellow 440's, drove & boosted fine, i had a slight miss hesitation around 6400rpm which has now gone since removing the afm (i have 4" turbo inlet, snorkel 4" K&N pod) which seemed to be upsetting afm up in the revs there nothing too major, i had an innovative wideband meter available & plumbed in afr's were good , along with stand alone boost control & not quite factory mods

did you get any pic's, i've made a few up over the years

K&N pod filter was one of my first mods & never killed an AFM along with a bov, A/M siamese down pipe & manderal bent exhaust. Also used a large simota pod, both worked well for me, in the end its your car your money. nothing wrong with changing things around here & there a few times

attached to the steering column angled brace to the right hand side by two 10mm nuts, as the threads are attached to brace. it tucked up in there with a bit of paitence, & the yellow plugs facing the steering wheel to the side at say 9 on a clock

Yes release one at a time, does pay to do this a couple of times, as to brake pedal feel while bleeding, if all are in good condition - when bleeding the rear brakes you'll feel the pedal will only travel half way down & not too the floor. this is fine as its just the first half of the master cylinder activating for the rear calipers, & as for the fronts you will notice full pedal travel to the floor, which is also normal, it only takes a small air bubble too, to cause a spongy pedal & there are also a couple of subtle ways/tricks to bleed brakes even stubben ones, but remember its not a race & its not finishing off the missus's

by clamping the rubber lines first will let you know whether the master cyclinder is where the problem is at, & if its solid then its just a case of releasing Front left / right or Rear left / right caliper hose clamps to determine where the pedal gets soft, could be a case of all of them combined too, rear caliper slides if single pot's so best to start clamping befpre you change to braided lines,