rex-leggy

this is not what i got told . got pulled up at an event also .... fella said weres the cert plate lucky he didn\'t look under the bonnet

videos? all i could really find haha im on at 1.57

if you do end up going with a hx35 let me know as my up pipe/ downpipe will work. getting somthing like that made does cost mega bucks as evo said unless you can fab it yourself

only issue is the part tellin others to try it . your more then welcome to do it to your own vehicle, but telling others to try it and have fun with no idea what it is doing ....... do you see no issue . a 2000 b4 legacy is det prone on nz fuel to start with

i still have everything really . on the new car ill be making new up-pipe and downpipe ect . was really nice .... id go crasy with bucket loads of lag

sorry have edited it if you understand it so well then what is the af raitos at wot? you don\'t even know what boost its running currently. buggering around with a factory twin turbo system is asking for some busted ringlands

was with av gas and water meth injection

as above 315kw @4600 rmp with a blown headgasket thats were they stopped. boost came on early and thats with the bigger hx40 was very fun to drive ! gotasuby knows he tuned it im trying to find the dyno thread there\'s a pic of the plot there

As far is im aware, im 90% sure. The ones i did were for link controlled cars so just the 10% uncertain as to weather polarity matters with a standard ecu

hx35 twin scroll will handle enough for what you\'ll want to do and come on boost alot earlier. youll want the sump, pickup and the windage tray (pretty sure you can use the non ts windage tray) if your doing cams def do at least springs prob wouldn\'t bother with a bigger oil pump tho my last setup was very similar and was a very fun car! which made 315kw @4600 with a blown headgasket

choppie choppie and then solder and heat shrink the other ones on. easy as with the injector wiring ive done at least polarity is not an issue

fyi DONT do this free boosting / doing stuped shit is a sure fire way of killing your engine . without extra fuel to compensate for added air = massive mess

id go for one of the new foresters im wanting to get one of the turbo diesel ones within the next year or so

V9 sti is were the hubs changed to 5/114 and had different mounting from what i have been told. but with the exception of the wrx or the same era (my?? dunno ) which stayed 5/100

i figure that would cause some bad things with oil pressure. there would be ways around it which would cost more$$ even the cross drilled cranks use the same bearing so i see no issue with oem

you can get different thickness paper .... or go to your local subaru dealership and get the oem part. should be cheep

you can mount them on the block using existing blanks in the casting. I put pressure at the back of block next to the bell housing. and the temp were lachlan suggested

they work all good at 29psi to

that is cool..... and that ace above is cool as to!

from what i can see you have it correct . from filter teed off to the front of both rails and then the back teed intothe side of reg and then bottom of reg to return like this except your rails are in parallel

or give it to me

there deff v1/4 rails . the oem injector pictured has the v1/4 pintle on it. the sards you have may be suitable for v5/6 rails as there slightly different (or is that what the collar is for?) when I got my 50 motorsport injectors it stated they were a v1/4 replacement but they werent, they did fit in v5/6 rails tho . worth looking into

very nice! was going to ask how it went when ya left

sas / richard phone number 0273634473

ae? dont replace the factory lines . if they can support 300+ kw they will work on a standard wrx. post a pic up of how the bits are hooked up and how fuel lines are hooked up. do you have the reg on the return to the tank? are you certain that the fuel lines are around the correct way?